Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not even going to bother responding because this kid clearly doesn't listen, I'm sure Stao doesn't want his thread cluttered up with anymore of this bullshit either.

All I said was that if there is an underlying issue with the Z32 ECU here (which appears to be the case) then my expectation is that it's Nistunes responsilbility to resolve it.... which they appear to be doing. Clearly I am not happy with this situation and other people telling me to just buy another ECU is not the answer I'm looking for here.

Is there something you are missing?

8bit are supported... 16bit are not... Its advertised as such and Nistune even offer a service to identify the ECU for you.

If you have an 8bit, then I dont see what the problem is? If you have a 16bit then I dont see how your lack of care when purchasing the product is a liability of the vendor. You have not read what was available from the vendor and the vendor has no responsibility to coming up with a solution to it.

Simple as that really.

Is there something you are missing?

8bit are supported... 16bit are not... Its advertised as such and Nistune even offer a service to identify the ECU for you.

If you have an 8bit, then I dont see what the problem is? If you have a 16bit then I dont see how your lack of care when purchasing the product is a liability of the vendor. You have not read what was available from the vendor and the vendor has no responsibility to coming up with a solution to it.

Simple as that really.

I have the same problem with another company. I purchased a Blu-ray and have now been told my stupid DVD player wont play it... I can't believe the company has screwed me out of all this money for a DVD player when it won't play Blu-rays

Edited by SimonR32

Actually Stao it was precisely because of Trent talking up this Nistune Z32 ECU solution for the R33 that I purchased one in the first place! (through him)

I will wait to see what Darkhalf comes back with...

Contrary to what Trent says this is a 100% a Nistune problem - except of course when you are using an unapproved 16bit ECU!

Nistune sell this solution for the R33 so they are obliged to sort these issues out and get it working.

My Z32 ECU is on the Nistune approved list and was modded by them in SA - I damn well expect them to get it working! :mad:

P.S. I just spent a bazillion dollars on turbo, injectors, clutch etc and didn't leave myself budget to buy a $1000 ECU

@Rolls - Thanks for the advice mate but I got this Z32 ECU because Trent and everyone else were adamant that it is a better solution than the R32 ECU.

im sorry but its NOTHING TO DO WITH NISTUNE... FFS. It is neither my fault or NISTUNE'S that you decided to take the cheapest route, buy a PFC or any other myriad of R33 designated products and you will be sweet....

You have an ecu designed for another car with only 3/4 of the correct inputs going into the ecu the others are being turned off in the Nistune software ..... if it wasnt for the nistune it would not work AT ALL it just happens that in some cases it works real well and other's are a pain.

If it was an issue with an R34 nistune in a R34 vehicle or similar then yes it would be their fault but in this case all onus is on the converter or the owner as it is a custom install....

PS dont put works in my mouth i fkn hate it... i am never adamant about anything other than doing things properly... i may have suggest it as an option but never adamant.

Regardless of your reservations i hope your car ends up being fine and whoever tunes it finds it to be one of the good ones.

im sorry but its NOTHING TO DO WITH NISTUNE... FFS. It is neither my fault or NISTUNE'S that you decided to take the cheapest route, buy a PFC or any other myriad of R33 designated products and you will be sweet....

You have an ecu designed for another car with only 3/4 of the correct inputs going into the ecu the others are being turned off in the Nistune software ..... if it wasnt for the nistune it would not work AT ALL it just happens that in some cases it works real well and other's are a pain.

If it was an issue with an R34 nistune in a R34 vehicle or similar then yes it would be their fault but in this case all onus is on the converter or the owner as it is a custom install....

PS dont put works in my mouth i fkn hate it... i am never adamant about anything other than doing things properly... i may have suggest it as an option but never adamant.

Regardless of your reservations i hope your car ends up being fine and whoever tunes it finds it to be one of the good ones.

:yes::worship:

im sorry but its NOTHING TO DO WITH NISTUNE... FFS. It is neither my fault or NISTUNE'S that you decided to take the cheapest route, buy a PFC or any other myriad of R33 designated products and you will be sweet....

Mate, I for one can vouch for you. I remember asking you the question once before re Z32 Nistune or patchwire R34 Nistune to a 33.

Its publicly available on this forum, I remember you confirmed the R34 was the better option and to proceed with caution against the Z32.

No doubt you have done the same here, normally people will give their desired answer when asking a question so I cannot blame you for saying 'you can' and its just fools who hear 'you should'.

Back on topic, lets see some SS-1 PU updates!

Sorry guys I seem to have pissed people off royally here which was not my intention at all.

I don't think I put words in anyones mouth and clearly I have my wires crossed somewhere along the line... :blush:

Appologies Trent I meant no disrespect

Stao please have your thread back

im sorry but its NOTHING TO DO WITH NISTUNE... FFS. It is neither my fault or NISTUNE'S that you decided to take the cheapest route, buy a PFC or any other myriad of R33 designated products and you will be sweet....

You have an ecu designed for another car with only 3/4 of the correct inputs going into the ecu the others are being turned off in the Nistune software ..... if it wasnt for the nistune it would not work AT ALL it just happens that in some cases it works real well and other's are a pain.

If it was an issue with an R34 nistune in a R34 vehicle or similar then yes it would be their fault but in this case all onus is on the converter or the owner as it is a custom install....

PS dont put works in my mouth i fkn hate it... i am never adamant about anything other than doing things properly... i may have suggest it as an option but never adamant.

Regardless of your reservations i hope your car ends up being fine and whoever tunes it finds it to be one of the good ones.

In other news...

I'm anxiously awaiting my SS1-PU-Prototype and other bits to arrive from Stao.

Chasing 280rwkw hi boost.

Might even choose e85 for fuel and kick it up to 300+rwkw. Maybe. WTB more availability?

In other news...

I'm anxiously awaiting my SS1-PU-Prototype and other bits to arrive from Stao.

Chasing 280rwkw hi boost.

Might even choose e85 for fuel and kick it up to 300+rwkw. Maybe. WTB more availability?

Well the the SS1.5PU just rolled off the dyno... fun times :) will let stao post his results.

In other news...

I'm anxiously awaiting my SS1-PU-Prototype and other bits to arrive from Stao.

Chasing 280rwkw hi boost.

Might even choose e85 for fuel and kick it up to 300+rwkw. Maybe. WTB more availability?

Sorry I've decided to build you a brand new turbine housing using bigger wastegate assembly and gate controller. You should have the pack tomorrow or Monday.

Also I've purchased adaptronic plug in and piggy pack ecus for testing, I will give a discount on the ECU for all of our customers whom is or have purchased our turbocharger or high flow services, if they works well on my test cars. So R33 GTST owners now can have a good and reliable ECU option for under $1000.

Any way this is the ATR43SS-1.5 model. I didn't install a wastegate controller on the testing unit so I ended up with a boost drop, that also lead to drop in power and torque. The controller will be integrated for one more run.

9 sec ramp

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Here's the fun part. This turbo is made to have similar top end as the original SS-1 but with more torque. The SS-1's torque feels quite smooth and linear, while this one gives this explosion of torque as soon as the paddle is stepped in. It sky rockets 510Mn of torque by 3900RPMs, put that on road it skits in 3rd gear acceleration. Seriously need to control the car with my right foot, but this is very fun to drive.

Above behavior is also found in the SS1PU, except the PU version is 2x times magnified (that turbo is crazy to drive on road).

too much chat about ecu's

any news on highflow developments?

what would you suggest so that i could run the max that stock afm and injectors could handle on an rb25neo?

They are coming along fine. I'm still making up the final decisions of the wheel parameters. I want to machine a tinny 60mm comp wheel that can blow out the equivalent of a 71mm cast wheel. That would be crazy to drive with the SS-1's turbine combination. Should get very noticeable difference even on factory setup.

Unmarked sketches of the new wheel design.

wheel.JPG

The SS1.5 and SS1PU is now commercially available. We will need 1 extra working days to machine any of the billet wheeled turbos. Price of the SS2 and SS1PU listed is based on a building of a single unit from a block of steel, Their prices fluctuates depending on the No. of orders we get, so PM for their prices if interested as you might be able to get a 10~15% discount.

Sorry I've decided to build you a brand new turbine housing using bigger wastegate assembly and gate controller. You should have the pack tomorrow or Monday.

<3

Can't wait. I'll be sure to post my dyno results!

too much chat about ecu's

any news on highflow developments?

what would you suggest so that i could run the max that stock afm and injectors could handle on an rb25neo?

Read through the last few pages, Tao has just finished a turbo exactly for this purpose! The other option is the SS1, a tad larger so you would only need ~15psi and it will be nicer on temps. But the other 2530 comparitive turbo will have better response but the boost drops off quite a bit. It depends on your preference.

Have some very positive E85 results with the SS1!! Very happy, super responsive and 279rwkw up top!!

Cant wait to see some SS2 + E85 results too.

Thanks Trent from Status Tuning and Tao from Hypergear turbos!

post-29432-0-89432700-1313121673_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-22798900-1313121681_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...