Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Well the SS2 is more responsive, while the G3 pulled a bit harder up top.

I've got few more drawings for the G2 which I will have it made and tested soon. I'm hopping the new G2 can produce around 280rwkws using less boost based on similar or better response of what it currently has.

Some trailing with GenEses prototype was conducted this afternoon. That is the biggest hair dryer I've ever had. It drained my spare battery (my old car battery) in about 3 mints. I shot the last 5 secs before the battery died out. Will do further evaluations soon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_k0aYiczFM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had the test car tuned current FNT ATR43G3's this evening. Basically straps on, internally gated on 98 fuel. The most it made was 330rwkws on 23psi, and 320rwkws on 20psi. The runs were performed with a high pressure actuator internally gated. The 20psi run is without boost controller.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

The No.s were very consistant. This turbo doesn't get hot at all. Compare to the older G3 there is small difference on paper but huge in driving ability.

Also compare to the E85 Abe result based from the same turbo. It looks like E85 have made it producing more power and better response.

347rwkwe85power.jpg

347rwkwe85boost.jpg

Stao I would love to see what E85 does to your current setup :thumbsup: .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what rpm does the electric charger do?

Will all depend on how much load it is under, eg if you are blowing it into a 10L motor with no restriction, or a 1.5L with conservative cams, one is going to load it up much more than the other.

I am very interested to see how it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stao if this electric turbo charger works, is it feasible to adapt it to a turbo charger so you can pre spool it? Eg run a belt or gear drive to a custom bearing housing so it can be turned on and off at will? I'm not sure how you would clutch it so it doesn't pose a restriction when on boost and you want to disconnect it though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be good for 5-10 second squirts then let it recharge. How will you bypass the turbine blades when it isn't in use as surely it will act as quite a large restriction, or will they free spin quite easily?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been testing it all afternoon, The Optima battery has no issues. Still fires and run after like 50 short runs. Would be similar to a Nos device that activates in short time pulses. This thing has no lag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

roughly 2 weeks if I don't run in to any more troubles. I've got a improved G2 design that I want to test out first. If all goes well we should be able to get close to the SS1PU's power, torque and response while not the extra coins and time making it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How have you estimated it will make similar airflow as the G2 does?

Have you hooked it up to a flow bench to calculate how much flow it can create? Just not sure how you came to that figure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Works every time right? :turned:

Flow bench only tells what the compressor can flow, how ever it can't predict how the whole package can perform on a certain engine. I prefer to physically test it, and after testing that many combinations I get a pretty accurate prediction of how things would turn out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Skyline amp is ~65amp, correct?

If that thing pulls 100amps, would beefing the generator system up to say 150amps provide enough stink to run it constantly? Or at least for much longer times than say the odd squirt for 10 seconds or so?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My issue with this (even though a good idea in theory)

Is the current draw, whacking a 300amp load on top of running fuel pumps, ECUs dash/head lights etc is going to make the car simply shut down.

In my car I can hear the fuelpump change tone ever so slightly when the brake lights come on and go back to normal 1/2 sec later, that would be 5-6 amps max, If I tried to whack 300amps on in 1 go the whole car would stop.

The other issue (if the car keeps running) is the huge voltage drop will affect the ignition and injectors and throw the tune out.

Still keen to see if it works though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...