Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right, so here's my dyno graphs. Sorry about the quality, I don't have a scanner so had to use my iphone confused.gif

This is the graph from my tune on Friday. Final numbers in case you can't read them were 390rwhp@18psi; 450nm of torque at 5000rpm.

IMG_0030-1.jpg

Going by that as well as doing some data logging, this turbo is actually quite laggy. Bit disappointed with that. The other thing that interested me is the shape of the curve. This is what my tuner attributed to the NIStune, he thinks it could be a lot smoother with a different ECU.

Then here is my graph from my dyno day yesterday:

IMG_0031-1.jpg

The number doesn't bug me, I'm more interested in the AFR's. It looks quite rich across the whole rev-range to me; starts off at about 12.9@1650rpm, going down to 12.5@3500rpm and then 10.5 just before it comes onto full boost. Surely 11-11.5 would be just as safe and make more power?

Any advice any experienced tuners could give would be appreciated, but I apologize again for the shotty graph quality.

U can try lean it out but he may have left it rich for safety of detonation. If he heard a ping with anything leaner that might be why he left it there.

Saying that there is not alot of power to be made by running a little leaner.

How much timing did he have in it at full throttle?

Hey Hanaldo, what turbo was your one, a SS2, right?? Can anyone with a Hypergear turbo take a nice pic of their custom metal intake, as I wana make one...lol

So it could have made 300rwkw but when upping the booat it only made 3kw more and less timing?

Aslong as it feels awesome to drive. Its just a number in the end.

That is because the boost was was still at 15psi at 7000RPMs. And that actuator should not run thing less then 18psi, it shouldn't been pulled apart on installation, I delt the tuner adjusted either. Preload the actuator, up 5psi by 7000rpms then that will make over 300rwkws. on the same time check for any flow related restrictions. How ever thats only if the tuner's happy to run the extra boost.

That turbo have no issues doing over 300rwkws on stock manifold.

Hey Hanaldo, what turbo was your one, a SS2, right?? Can anyone with a Hypergear turbo take a nice pic of their custom metal intake, as I wana make one...lol

That is the intake pipe I'm running:

DSC00402.JPG

Wasn't a SS2, That was a G3

The number doesn't bug me, I'm more interested in the AFR's. It looks quite rich across the whole rev-range to me; starts off at about 12.9@1650rpm, going down to 12.5@3500rpm and then 10.5 just before it comes onto full boost. Surely 11-11.5 would be just as safe and make more power?

Any advice any experienced tuners could give would be appreciated, but I apologize again for the shotty graph quality.

If it is a stock motor better to be extra safe at 10.5, especially if you belt it in the warmer months or track it.

U can try lean it out but he may have left it rich for safety of detonation. If he heard a ping with anything leaner that might be why he left it there.

Saying that there is not alot of power to be made by running a little leaner.

How much timing did he have in it at full throttle?

If it is a stock motor better to be extra safe at 10.5, especially if you belt it in the warmer months or track it.

Fair enough, thanks guys. I do track the car, so prefer safety, just wasn't sure if it was any safer running it at 10.5 compared to 11 or 11.5. Any ideas on the lag? Could that be the 3" intake? I didn't think the smaller intake would cost me 500rpm of response though.

Jez, I'll have to download the latest maps from my ECU and let you know.

Hey Hanaldo, what turbo was your one, a SS2, right?? Can anyone with a Hypergear turbo take a nice pic of their custom metal intake, as I wana make one...lol

Negative, current ATR43 G3 model.

This is my intake pipe:

IMG_0024-1.jpg

IMG_0023-2.jpg

IMG_0022.jpg

Edited by Hanaldo

Hey Hanaldo and Stao, thanks very very much for the intake pipe pics, that will help a lot - I just wana set everything up, then get my turbo last and go down to Jez!

Right, so here's my dyno graphs. Sorry about the quality, I don't have a scanner so had to use my iphone confused.gif

This is the graph from my tune on Friday. Final numbers in case you can't read them were 390rwhp@18psi; 450nm of torque at 5000rpm.

IMG_0030-1.jpg

^^

Also with above reading it looks like its got a very strange chunk of power band missing down low, I'm not sure if that is due to the ECU problem. I'm seeing trent tomorrow night, and I will get a copy of the AFR and timming map from his computer for your reference.

18/02/12:

Above was later found with VCT disabled.

^^

Also with above reading it looks like its got a very strange chunk of power band missing down low, I'm not sure if that is due to the ECU problem. I'm seeing trent tomorrow night, and I will get a copy of the AFR and timming map from his computer for abit of comparison.

That would be great mate, thanks.

about the PSI increase, it was done with a MBC, so it did bleed off to about 16psi in the top.. Pretty sure he didnt do any adjustments, just said he might need top pull some timing out.

It was making about 10rwkw more in the midrange with it turned up.

Im happy with how it runs on lowish boost for the moment, seems like a awesome tune and puts a smile on my face when it hits boost! Fast enough for me atm, if i get itchy for more power in later months i will get a EBC and up the boost that way accompanied by a tune..

AFR's are 11.5-11.8 from 4K onwards.

Right, so here's my dyno graphs. Sorry about the quality, I don't have a scanner so had to use my iphone confused.gif

This is the graph from my tune on Friday. Final numbers in case you can't read them were 390rwhp@18psi; 450nm of torque at 5000rpm.

IMG_0030-1.jpg

Going by that as well as doing some data logging, this turbo is actually quite laggy. Bit disappointed with that. The other thing that interested me is the shape of the curve. This is what my tuner attributed to the NIStune, he thinks it could be a lot smoother with a different ECU.

Then here is my graph from my dyno day yesterday:

IMG_0031-1.jpg

The number doesn't bug me, I'm more interested in the AFR's. It looks quite rich across the whole rev-range to me; starts off at about 12.9@1650rpm, going down to 12.5@3500rpm and then 10.5 just before it comes onto full boost. Surely 11-11.5 would be just as safe and make more power?

Any advice any experienced tuners could give would be appreciated, but I apologize again for the shotty graph quality.

Why was it only taken to 6Krpm at the dyno day?

Fair enough, thanks guys. I do track the car, so prefer safety, just wasn't sure if it was any safer running it at 10.5 compared to 11 or 11.5. Any ideas on the lag? Could that be the 3" intake? I didn't think the smaller intake would cost me 500rpm of response though.

The things that kill a motor are detonation, the more fuel you add the more of a barrier you have for detonation due to the fuel sucking temperature out of the intake charge/cylinder. You might lose 10kw, but if it means your motor lasts forever then that is totally worth it.

10.5 to 11:1 is what I request personally when getting an engine tuned regardless of whether it pings at higher afr.

Edited by Rolls

Have two tunes, one for your every day then one for your water meth injection days.

That intake pipe looks very simple, a 90 with a 90 with tiny legs. is that the standard hot pipe? My shit intake hits my hot pipe which is another thing f**king with my intake. Need to extend it or get a longer 90 degree silicone from turbo to hot pipe.

The things that kill a motor are detonation, the more fuel you add the more of a barrier you have for detonation due to the fuel sucking temperature out of the intake charge/cylinder. You might lose 10kw, but if it means your motor lasts forever then that is totally worth it.

10.5 to 11:1 is what I request personally when getting an engine tuned regardless of whether it pings at higher afr.

Yeh I do know why it is safer to run a richer AFR, but it gets to a point where it isn't making it any safer and is just killing power. I wasn't sure if I was at that point or if it was reasonable, most maps I've looked at and threads I've read on here have been around 11-11.5 in the higher load areas.

But as I said, I'm no experienced tuner, so if you guys say it is reasonable then I'm happy with it :)

Have two tunes, one for your every day then one for your water meth injection days.

That intake pipe looks very simple, a 90 with a 90 with tiny legs. is that the standard hot pipe? My shit intake hits my hot pipe which is another thing f**king with my intake. Need to extend it or get a longer 90 degree silicone from turbo to hot pipe.

Assuming you're referring to mine??

The intake pipe used to be a bit more 'S' shaped, but when I installed the new turbo it didn't fit anymore and I had to trim it back a fair bit. And no the hot pipe isn't standard, all my piping is custom. That pipe is custom ugly. Getting it remade this week.

Hanaldo,

Some advice for you... The allstar graph has correction turned on so that adds about 6% on that dynos normal figure. then there is a difference between roller and hub dynos so you loose more with that difference so a genuine 320rwhp may be a more accurate figure. Which is, lets not get mixed up with words, a totally crap result!

Now, the issue with the ecu. My mate had very similar issues with his r34 and power fc. Took him and Sean ages to work out a fix but I believe it was something to do with the traction control. Maybe ask Sean if he remembers how they fixed brads issue, otherwise ill try get brad on here to give you some advice.

Unfortunately if you do get the issue fixed and you don't make substantially more power and response it looks like you may have got a dud set up :-(

Simon

A dud setup.... The words no one wants to hear but unfortunately it looks like these turbos we are using are very very fussy with what they need. Where would one point then? At the turbo? The exhaust? The whole damn package? I spent close to 6k for most of the gear on my car and it still isn't making the power it should...

Ive done almost everything needed to get an exact replica of the setup this turbo was made on. I'm actually making a raw 90 degree full 3" pipe right now to fit so the intake will no longer be as big of a restriction as it was. I will obviously post back again when I get it on the rollers again just to see if I can get the power I should.

My motor was tested to be healthy with nice strong consistent compression. The issue is everything attached to it lol.

Its almost tempting to return to stock, sell my parts off and go for the GTR. This is my last chance before this otherwise ill either sell it for parts or give it to my brother and get me the gtr.

why not try a GT3076 before you give up Sarge? That way you will know if the turbo's at fault or not. Keep your current setup, borrow a garret 3076 or 3071 (from where?) and see if u make power..Since u got all the suppor mods already..pinch.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...