Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[Birds]

Rich mix + super hot exhaust = flame cannon.

Since the dawn of time man has been fascinated by fire.

[Manuel Kasko]

Just a warning on the bashed out cats - they are harder to pick up on than a straight pipe, but the fine for having no cat is substantially more than a standard EPA violation notice for not passing emissions or having illegal mods. From memory it was $2000+

This scares me

[Trozzle]

This scares me

Don't stress lol, if it was ceramic just plea . I went over the pits with a gutted cat and they didn't pull me up

[siksII]

Update.

So within one week I found the following issues:

-The plastic pipe inside the air con drain pipe has melted nearly shut so it now leaks into the cabin

-I heat wrapped the dump now so hopefully doesnt get worse and will somehow repair the air con drain hole

-It started missing between 4500 and 5000rpm and the miss has gotten worse

Driving wise..

Took it for a 300km solid run of open/tight twisties and found the following:

-Water temp now gets near 100 degrees where before it would get to mid-high 80s max on the same road

-The turbo is getting crazy hot, not sure if its normal but after a decent run and then letting the car cool for at least 5 mins (cruising at say 80-100km/h) i popped the bonnet and the entire exhaust side of the engine was glowing since the turbo was glowing so bright. The dump pipe was not glowing so im assuming the exhaust wasnt getting very hot which indicates to me it wasnt being restrictive.. but I have never seen a turbo glow that bright. Even all the turbo bolts and studs were glowing!

-The car was pinging now and then

-Even with the new power, my chassis setup can easily handle it, you can still wring the car out pretty hard even with 240+rwkw and it feels like more power would be better

Troubleshooting (the actuator failed!)

So.... dropped it back to the tuner today to get it re tuned with the lower pressure actuator, and he found that the actuator that the ss1pu came with had already failed. It was getting randomly jammed open/shut hence the car was sometimes running too much boost when it shouldnt. This would explain the random pinging.

He also found that the wastegate flap seems to be fouling or is jammed since it can only open about 5mm and said this is not normal. He has removed the dump pipe to investigate.

Boost ramps up from around 10psi to 21psi extremely aggressively, this is what makes it want to ping.

Jez, we tuned the car in 'track spec' without a cat

Birds - It had stock turbo running the usual 180rwkw at 9psi before. I had the motor compression tested and also tested on the dyno for off boost performance and its 100%. Current tuner also confirmed the motor feels perfect.

I have a 3inch custom intake, thats not an issue.

Injectors - brand new

Cooler - Genuine greddy, I clean and check it every couple of years, was making normal power with stock turbo

-Exhaust, who knows but both tuners and my mechanic said it should be fine with that exhaust, its a 80mm Apexi with only 1 muffler

-Timing - sorry but i dont believe in your method of referencing your timing table, every setup it is a little different, the only time to perhaps reference your timing table would be if its ridiculously different to expected

-Rubber gasket was replaced with a rubber one with metal surround so it cannot blow out. Got the entire intake system pressurised, 100% sure no leaks there

My views about..

The power issue:

-I believe around 10rwkw is being lost compared to the average tuned car due to the tyres. Im running Federal 595 RSRs, they are very soft and sticky when hot. A mate of mine tested his car with then, tuner said its down on power blah blah and then he changed to normal tyres, went back, made normal power, around 10rwkw more.

-The reference graph showing 280rwkw is deceptive, without going into detail I dont believe this is and accurate reflection of how much power the turbo will make for most customers, I did not expect the car to make 280. Even Stao himself is now saying it will make around 260 and I believe this is closer to the mark for this turbo and the majority of cars/dynos.

-There is something else holding back the power on my car but I dont know what it is yet. I believe this is so because on the hypergear reference dyno graph, the turbo/power tapers off at 17psi@5500rpm. If you check my power graph you can see mine only tapers off at around 17psi@6800rpm, the turbo does not max out in the same way, it has more to give.

Driving experience:

I dont like linear power delivery, I wanted a turbo that ramps up hard and feels aggressive and challenging to drive. This is far more fun and entertaining and exciting for me compared to a lame linear power delivery. This turbo most definitely delivers what I wanted. In terms of the driving experience, this turbo is exactly what I wanted. The car feels exciting and pretty hardcore to drive.

-Driveability is good below 3000 but not much is going on.

-3000 to 4000rpm the spooling sound is awesome and the car starts pulling

-4000 to 5000 the rush and g force is mad, in traffic I naturally tend to shift at 5000 max since the acceleration is so aggressive up to that point.

-5000 onwards is just a mad pull, if you shift up at the redline in each gear, 4th gear feels like it revs out just as quick at 3rd.. it just doesnt stop pulling. Havent wound out 5th (yet) but it still pulls hard in 5th!

I have full traction in 1st most of the time and the g force when coming onto boost really pushes you back in the seat. Thank you RSRs and mechanical diff!

I took a video where a friend takes off normally and shifts slow into second, revving it out in each gear. Having a closer look at it, I realised that even with the slow takeoff and shifts we hit 100 in 5.x seconds! Ill need to hook up the pbox and do some testing

I have been in plenty of cars with similar power levels and to be honest although the graph shows 242rwkw, it feels like more than that on the road.

Moving forward..

I would like to try the lower pressure actuator and also run it with normal tyres to see what difference it makes. I would also like to try running it without the cat back to see if that is restriction.

In the meantime I am having a great time getting used to the car and look forward to every drive.

PM me if you are in Sydney and want to go for a ride.

[DVS JEZ]

Wht ecu are u using?

Did u notice the boost gauge overboosting or underboosting?

[GTScotT]

Its got to be leaning out, something is failing. R u sure ur fuel pump isnt letting go?

[siksII]

Wht ecu are u using?

Did u notice the boost gauge overboosting or underboosting?

Powerfc. Yes, the gauge did show the boost going way over 20psi however I figured the gauge was showing wrong since its only a 20psi gauge so it was maxxed out (when it was tuned it was hitting 21psi from the actuator only and now it will hit 24 with no other changes)

However... I must say that during the only big 300km testing drive I did I pretty much never looked at the gauge, had my eyes glued on the road. Sometimes it felt like the car was down on power but I cant say if that was in my head or not.

Since the car started missing gradually more and more after the tune I think the extra boost would be contributing. On my long drive, it did stop missing for periods and then would start again which makes me think it was running inconsistent boost.

Its got to be leaning out, something is failing. R u sure ur fuel pump isnt letting go?

Yes, something is failing, the actuator - it has failed as I mentioned! lol. The car is not tuned for the high boost it sometimes hits hence yes, it probably is leaning out!

[GTScotT]

Maybe I underestimates the actuator issue.

Have you called Stao about the flapper seizing? I have read about that sort of thing happening elsewhere.

[Sparky206]

Heres my result with a r33 highflow i had done a few years back, just running 14psi off the actuator. 263KW

Edited March 19, 2012 by Sparky206

[hypergear]

Check the wasetgate it is operation by:

1. Use compressor, Shoot air into the actuator while still on the turbocharger assembly, check the movement from the wastegate gate.

2. If wastegate james, remove the actautor, shoot air into the actuator and see if the rod moves back and forward.

3. if the actuator operates check and make sure its not fouling on any parts of the bracket or parts.

If the actuator does not operate under pressure then it would be a faulty actuator which will go through warranty. Which I have not seen one failing so far.

And check to make sure the exhaust studs is not too long or it can possibly foul on the wastegate and catches it on the thread that makes it jam.

[Manuel Kasko]

I give up hey!

f**k I can't get the back water line onto the SS1

It's impossible to bend it so it sits against the turbo

I have spent the past 2 afternoons trying

The pipe bends like 90 degrees at the very end and no matter how hard I try I can't get it to clear the housing

I say there heating the pipe and trying to bend it but it just won't budge

Bloody, sore and tired

f**k

[Hanaldo]

I give up hey!

f**k I can't get the back water line onto the SS1

It's impossible to bend it so it sits against the turbo

I have spent the past 2 afternoons trying

The pipe bends like 90 degrees at the very end and no matter how hard I try I can't get it to clear the housing

I say there heating the pipe and trying to bend it but it just won't budge

Bloody, sore and tired

f**k

Haha ahhh yes, I remember that. What a fun job it was You'll get there though, it definitely is possible. If you can, get a second person to help you, makes it a fair bit easier with another set of hands.

[Manuel Kasko]

Been trying with a mate for about 8 hours

[DVS JEZ]

Buy a Braided line kit. Makes life soooooo much easier

[Manuel Kasko]

How do I get to the water line behind the engine?

[DVS JEZ]

left hand in from near the brake booster, right hand from the turbo side.... yes this means u will be sitting on top of the motor

[ARTZ]

Don't stress lol, if it was ceramic just plea . I went over the pits with a gutted cat and they didn't pull me up

thats the thing alot of standard cats are absolute rubbish and fall apart ..so there is alot of newish cars running around catless, pretty sure the guts fell out of our honda about 6 months ago, for a while there was a rattling noise we couldnt locate that eventually just dissapeared..

left hand in from near the brake booster, right hand from the turbo side.... yes this means u will be sitting on top of the motor

ratchet spanners are your friend here...I didnt have any when I did it, people were telling me I would have to take the bonnet off and jack my engine up etc. But I just did it the old fashioned way, that is, a quarter turn at a time..

Though I find it easiest to work on the engine with the car up on stands or a jack, saves your back a whole lot of grief

[hypergear]

How do I get to the water line behind the engine?

Well if you are trying to bend the lines after fitting on the turbo then it won't work. Check the DIY page with video footages of how it was done. It took us about 12mints.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__1780__p__5876311#entry5876311

[Manuel Kasko]

Well if you are trying to bend the lines after fitting on the turbo then it won't work. Check the DIY page with video footages of how it was done. It took us about 12mints.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__1780__p__5876311#entry5876311

Just checked this out and I never got an oil drain adapter?

[hypergear]

use the factory oil drain adaptor on the 2nd photo as the drain port has been modified to suit stock drain flange.

Also do check Ignition timing at crank matches to what ever the ecu the is reading, it can be adjusted through the CAS controller. Which was Landcribble's problem (20 degrees retard) that some how that caused uncontrollable boost creep, pin as well as strange power curve.