Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm waiting for a cometic multi layer metal gasket from usa. I'm not in a great hurry as Brae needs about one more week to have the new manifold made. I will announce price of them once they are successfully trailed.

Yea, for on my car it was around 3 degrees of timing increase for mid-top range. the power band keeps on rising instead of dropping and the torque curve also becomes lot more spreaded. I will do few runs with the new manifold compare to my current one (expansive one) and see if there are any differences. But either way I'm sure a 50mm gate will make some differences.
I make practical intakes that work, not fap toys. lol.

hey I'm just in the process of making my own metal intake - what's the reason for not just using mandrel bends? is there any, or you just loooove welding lol?

80mm alloy pipe won't fit well in the stock configuration, and I can't find mandrels in that size. As it is the same size as the AFM it just seems smart to keep it similar for flow, and 80mm silicone is readily available now.

3 inch pipe may just fit to the stock airbox with alloy donut bends but there is no way (currently) I can make them the same every time, manufacture them remotely and guarantee they will fit. It's quite hard to make a product and ship it across the country without making sure it is consistent, I can only do that with the lobster cuts.

If you needed shiny mandrels you could take your car to any of the fabricators on here, they would be happy to make a stainless or alloy version for you as would I, or make it yourself by all means. Will it perform better? No, it's only for looks, and if you don't follow the few basic rules in construction you will have all manner of issues with it. (unless you go map sensor and ditch the AFM)

PM me with your ideas if you like and I will run through the basics. Stay away from silicone bends as when hot and soft it will suck in and put you in the same position you were with the stock intake.

Update on the M35 VQ25 turbocharger high flow profile.

This is the small profile using the SS1 core. Also run FNT turbine setup. should have stock alike response with much stronger punch. Running with after market ecu I would expect it making some where around the 230rwkws mark.

front.jpg

rear.jpg

The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed.

They charge $90 per seat at most places, why on earth would you pay that to essentially get two holes drilled?

Because the RTA wanted them added to the engineers certificate, they needed to be done CORRECTLY. That means correct location as per ADR, which falls inside the speakers. He needs to fabricate a 'bridge' style mount that goes over the speakers themselves but under the mesh, then a bolt through the mesh into this bridge.

May I say, the ADR's are a load of crap if that's the case. (I already new that anyway.)

What's the cop going to say when he sees the speaker holding a child seat down. lol.

that intake pipe is an abortion....

If only your mother knew of the word! :P

Most of us here are more concerned with kilowasps and efficiency than checking out our gelled hair in the reflection of a pipe...but each to theirs I guess!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...