Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here it is. SS1PU internally gated bolton version for S13 SR20det non vct.

The thin red line is on stock cams, while the thick red line is on big Tomei Pro 270 dur cams which made it bit laggy. The tune is based on pump 98.

How much is this turbo and what's needed to bolt on just 3inch intake and oil line ?

The car's not 100% done at this stage, my expectation sits around the 280rwkws with bit more boost once all finished.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

The I have two stock manifold that I can work around with. It will have to be on exchange basis. means I will hold a deposit for the donor manifold till stock manifold is received. Or just send in an donor manifold to be worked with.

The billet SS1PU for SR20det is retailed for $1000 including actuator. It can be built as a OEM bolton turbo for S14 or S15 (benjo fitting) with factory comp housing, It does not require after market oil lines, and certainly do not require and external gate to perform. How ever oil line is only required when fitting onto a S13s.

Sounds good, Look forward to seeing what pricing/packages you can do with the modded stock manifold.

Will be after a G2 of some sort and a manifold whenever this project is finished :)

Also since stock manifold is a twin plus log manifold, I would prefer to keep the way it is specially when its no longer restrictive. So external gates can be added to the turbine housing like:

Image0021.jpg

But unless its been worked, External gate would still perform better when fitted on to the manifiold.

The I have two stock manifold that I can work around with. It will have to be on exchange basis. means I will hold a deposit for the donor manifold till stock manifold is received. Or just send in an donor manifold to be worked with.

The billet SS1PU for SR20det is retailed for $1000 including actuator. It can be built as a OEM bolton turbo for S14 or S15 (benjo fitting) with factory comp housing, It does not require after market oil lines, and certainly do not require and external gate to perform. How ever oil line is only required when fitting onto a S13s.

Sweet will be keen on getting one if I get a s14 so built with bolt on housing

So there built with billet compressor wheel so should handle big boost how much you think?

30psi I'll like to try it on e85 crack 300rwkw ?

At moment you will be looking to spend $500 to get one done on exchange basis. and that is very little money for the amount of work involved.

I'm taking about in a sr not rb but this thing has billet compressor so stronger and lighter

I'm talking about a VQ not an RB.

Why would the engine matter? The turbo will pump X amount of air, and if there are no restrictions any engine should run around 300 on e85 with an SS1PU, maxing out the compressor.

G'day,

i have a ATR43 .63 on a RB25 in a 32, it has 3" TBE, 750cc injectors and a warlbro, at 17psi it punched out 302rwhp and my tuner informed me the next step is a bigger turbo.

any other suggestions for extra power? Cams? i dont want to go down the E85 route as its not readily available at the pump here.

I need to know the turbo's profile, been .63 it would should be a smaller G1, G2 or the older TR43 series. Also I need to know the date of when the turbo was purchased. There has been many updates made since.

Generally they need to have a large metal induction pipe, free flow exhaust and a good tune. assume those are at presence I would dump bit more boost, and that should make it into around the 350hp mark assume it is a G2 profile. External gate also appears to work well in combination of factory exhaust manifold.

Depending on the hp you are chasing for, larger .82 rear housing is recommended for any thing above 350hp. and those can be made to suit your current turbine wheel.

Also just noticed you are located in Perth. If that is the case I recommend getting your tune checked at All start garage.

Also since stock manifold is a twin plus log manifold, I would prefer to keep the way it is specially when its no longer restrictive. So external gates can be added to the turbine housing like:

But unless its been worked, External gate would still perform better when fitted on to the manifiold.

How much will it cost to stao to have a gate supplied and welded onto my internally gated tr43i?

The gate I can supply at $200, welding and machining and materials is $300. So all up is $500. you need to adjust the screamer pipe off the gate a little as I don't know how much exhaust clearance you might have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...