Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Teaser video of my car running again:

Mate was driving and was too nervous to drive it hard, so when I can drive again I'll get some better footage.

Can't watch the video brah

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

We are talking about 1.2psi gain, not a mojor but there is a difference, notice the shape of the curve too. The 20psi actuator still had 3psi drop. this sheet was taken when using the same turbine housing

98boost.jpg

compare to:

boost.jpg

The SS1PU probably had the most boost drop internally gated, this actuator setup should work well with that.

Do you bore out the wastegate hole Stao?

Maybe you could look at the EFR turbos and borrow some ideas from them to come up with a better rear housing design?

The SS1PU due to the higher pressure in the exhaust manifold, too much pressure here would cause heat issues though, you need an exhaust temp sensor in the manifold imo Stao.

Have you incorperated the longer actuator arm for more leverage also?

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

Ahh crap, I missed that the bottom graph was the two different rears.

Ahh crap, I missed that the bottom graph was the two different rears.

Please refer to post 6125. They are identical turbochargers, both with .82 type B rear housings just different actuator setup.

Talk about great service!

I ordered my turbo on Monday, it was built and is already in the post. Stao has still been answering my queries and testing products in between, now that's what I call great service :)

Have you incorperated the longer actuator arm for more leverage also?

Different arm to mine but looks to be similar length so should have same leverage

Stao mine has the longer arm and I lose 2psi up top. Is it worth loosening the screws and extending it out to the edge of have you tried that and made little difference?

Edited by t_revz

Speaking of restrictions...both my cams look a couple degrees retarded. Might have to grab an adjustable gear for exhaust cam. Obviously need to put a dial gauge on and check for sure but if I see cheap cam gears in Japan next week ill be all over em

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
×
×
  • Create New...