Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was just being a dickhead, ofcourse if you're going from a stock turbo and catback to a HG then no shit sherlock.

Going out on a limb i would say most potential buyers would already have upgraded the dump pipe.

My point was Stao tries to make these turbo's as easy as possible for people to bolt on themselves, without having to worry about buying/fabbing up other things to get it to work.

It was the reason i bought one instead of a GT3076R kit.

Now that we know that JJR quality has gone down hill for the 1 piece dumps all we need to do is find an alternative. My money is on the Xforce.

Mine would be 7 or 8 yrs old. While its probably not as bad as others that are more recent(possibly is), it still didn't match properly and I tapered the edge in places to make it better.

mmm well looks like I really have to make the dump pipe my self to get every thing properly. I'm thinking of getting rid of the factory 6 bolt patterned dump, and have a 38mm internal gate assembly made from scratch to a proper 3inch Vband dump, then a 3.5inches turbo to cat front pipe.

38mm internal wastegate:

IMAG1083.jpg

The internal wastegate assembly:

IMAG1082.jpg

Final assembly:

IMAG1081.jpg

Looks good doesn't it. The cost of making above including a proper one piece dump n front pipe costs $475. Works out to be $1375 for the Gx series. Still pretty cheap considering what most people paying for dump pipes this days. I will post photos as the kit completes.

That looks great Stao,

how long do you intend to make the dump? Similar to bell mouth obviously if its going to the cat?

This is setup for ss2?

That would fit any of the 60mm wheels Id say. G2/2.5/3/SS2

My point about the JJR dumps is not so much that they have suddenly became crap, but that we should find an alternative so that people can continue their love affair with the bolt on HG

Trev, I'll keep you informed mate. Going back to Kermy in the next couple of weeks to get my screamer redone, so I'll ask him what he thinks of it then.

Sweet, I imagine Stao will have results on this by the time I'm home so should be able to make a decision either way. I need to do exhaust ASAP cos its way loud. I've been pushing it out of the garage in the mornings and start up while im rolling down the driveway for a quick getaway.

Haha yeh tell me about it. I have to jump start it this morning (fkn left bonnet open and forgot to switch interior light off. Means at least a minute of terrorising the neighbours lol. But I love the sound so they can deal with it :F

My mate has fixed up the JJR Dump. Probably now about 75% better. Will post pics when I get the chance

Some of the walls where getting really thin so limited our ability to match it 100% with the gasket

Some of the walls where getting really thin so limited our ability to match it 100% with the gasket

Yeh this is my issue with cleaning it up which has me considering just getting one made.

Yeh this is my issue with cleaning it up which has me considering just getting one made.

Would be curious at the potential loss of power

if its negligible and like 5rwkw then I wouldn't worry about it

but its say 20rwkw then might be worthwhile

Stao's already talked about it in earlier pages that the internal gate will never open to 90 degrees. so the gas can never hit a 90 degrees wall. What I can see he's done is by making a huge wastegate flapper it needed more room for it to open there for needed that extra round bit of space.

Stao's already talked about it in earlier pages that the internal gate will never open to 90 degrees. so the gas can never hit a 90 degrees wall. What I can see he's done is by making a huge wastegate flapper it needed more room for it to open there for needed that extra round bit of space.

Like I said, will be interesting to see the results. The flap can open however it likes, exhaust flow is has to turn 90deg out of the wastegate orifice cast into the housing and then again as it merges with the flow of the exhaust gas.

If he has the sizing sorted then will be a nice solution.

And re the more power/boost less exhaust flow...true but the problem is compounded as you also have more mass of airflow through the engine which needs to go through an orifice in the exhaust housing scroll the size of a 10c piece and when the gate opens another 20c piece which when it opens has to merge without causing turbulence and back pressure to all that exhaust flow through the turbine.

I sure as shit have no idea how it all does what it does so well...just have seen for years people try to get the same result as my setup out of the internal gate TD06 turbos and fail, only for those to go external gate setup and the things work so much better.

tbh for flow, boost control, exhaust restriction, an external gate is superior.. but comes a cost associated with the gate itself and fabrication.

Would be curious at the potential loss of power

if its negligible and like 5rwkw then I wouldn't worry about it

but its say 20rwkw then might be worthwhile

Yeh well I wouldn't expect it to be a hell of a lot, but considering I'm chasing a restriction in my setup somewhere, I just want to know that everything is as good as it can be.

Roy my understanding is that in an internal gate turbo the main exhaust stream from the turbine actually sucks the gas from the WG flapper.

So in this case its still possible that the design will still work, and pending results it may work well.

As proven in the kando thread, that specific shitty housing was still shitty with its arse lopped off to operate like a normal 5 bolt rear. So its not necessarily the WG design that makes it shitty, but just that housing in general.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keen to see the turbosmart data, to date I've only seen negative things in terms of response for them. Very small sample size though.     Hawkins is a big advocate in his videos of the larger rear housings. I managed to make similar power with a lower spec motor on the smaller .8 rear, keeping decentish spool.  The people he works with now are big power cars compared to mine though, mine really is setup to drive around and enjoy.  I don't have any back pressure monitoring though, so couldn't say if its good or bad on my car, just that it does what I want it to do.   Future I want a higher compression more cubes motor to give a bit more bottom end and hopefully the new g35-1150 gets me to the 850 rear comfortably.  But maybe I won't due to exhaust back pressure.
    • No, I refuse to buy their cheap ass crap! I do need to order a bunch of different nuts/bolts to refill my nut/bolt wall though. Maybe you could go for a walk through Bunnings for me? (Or send me some stuff from your work? )   I really struggle to work out how the US standardised to Metric in what the 70s or 80s, and yet, half a century later, there's been little done to actually bring it into fruition. It truly baffles me    On the whole Fastenal thing, I went reading their site (My god they sell a lot of varied stuff!), and it seems like it really depends what store you're near if you can walk in and just grab a few small things, or if that branch is primarily distribution with only a small window of "counter time" available (if at all). That definitely makes it harder, as move locations and it drastically changes your ability for success   For things like your M6x1.0, if you want to work on your own Skyline, and you also have a "home workshop" I'd recommend setting yourself up a small Nut/Bolt wall/section. It doesn't even need to be big at all. Most things depending on the diameter, will be a specific pitch, like the M6x1, M5x0.7 etc. Bigger bolts is mostly 1.5, except for a small number of things and that will come down to torque. From memory bolts for the brake calipers (and other things that need a lot of torque) will end up being a 1.25mm pitch. Save up a few dollars, and order a range of nuts/bolts. If you want to minimise cost a little, buy something like M6 x 40, and M6x70mm (1mm pitch) in both. In addition, buy yourself an M6x1mm thread chaser. That way you have long bolts that you can cut down to size, and then chase the threads out. Funnily enough, I find what I'd pay here for ordering 5 bolts, I can pay about 50% more and you'll get 100 of them.   If that doesn't quite work out due to space / ability to buy plenty up front, then each time you need some bolts, order 100 of what ever you're getting. Put them in clearly marked containers. Over a few years, you'll acquire plenty of different sizes, and will end up ordering less and less. And the cost for 100 bolts won't be much more than you paid for your 5 you needed to order anyway  Just takes a little planning ahead, by investigating what nuts/bolts you'll need, and ordering them before doing the job.     Edit: If it's also primarily for working on just the Skyline, for some reason my brain is screaming that at some point, either Nissan, Nismo, (Or possibly a third party) was selling a "kit" of every nut and bolt in a Skyline, purely for people restoring/rebuilding. It'd likely be quite expensive, but would give you every/any nut/bolt you need for stock/factory things. I'm not sure if it's still available, or even if it actually fully came to market, it's just something niggling in the back of my brain that you could look into further if that sort of thing interested you? (It might have been for the R32 GTR or something specifically too, and not just any Skyline)
    • 90lb/min @ 20psi is wonderful, not so much of a problem with the G35-1050's compressor efficiency (aside from how bad they roll back at higher pressure ratios).  The issue is more to do with the turbine's flow, which is why I'm not sold on going an even higher flowing compressor with the same turbine.  I'd say go back over Motive DVD's testing of the G35 1050 and Hawkins's comments regarding exhaust back pressure issues with it, I'd need to go back but I have in my head he went to the biggest hotside and ended up sacrificing a lot of spool (so it ended up behaving like a bigger turbo) and still had EMAP issues.  I've heard various other experiences along the lines of that. At this stage at least I rate all I've seen about Xonas (for transparency I've not used one directly, but I have spoke plenty with people who have) to have low exhaust restriction for the response they offer for any given setup - basically they allow the engine to breathe, which is good for the engine and makes making power a lot easier.  You arguably don't have to even push quite the same amount of airflow through an engine to make the same power if you don't have the bum plugged up with exhaust gas struggling to escape the engine due to an underflowing turbine.   In terms of reliability, to be fair I've had great luck with Garrett turbos as well - my GT3076R lasted forever, then I sold it and the next owner had no issues, then that car got sold and it was still going strong last I ever heard about it.  The trick is with the old GT-series turbos the compressors etc were no way near as efficient as what we have these days, it was almost hard to push them into severe overspeed situations without having a boost leak or something - and that is what often starts the failure situation.    In terms of your G35 I'm pretty sure you're running yours within sensible limits, something people with Xonas and Precision turbos aren't often so inclined to do.  The "compressor maps" are "Joe blogs ran 45psi through his 6466 so I can do the same" and built their setup to send it to the moon.  I've seen EMAP and compressor speed data where people have actually set that stuff up on Precisions and Xonas which have been run hard and the comp speed numbers are very very exciting at times - like I've seen 76mm Precisions run at rpm that you ideally shouldn't run a G35 1050 lol.   I know people who have run G-series Garretts hard and hard a failure, then replaced them with Pulsar turbos as a cheap "get it going" stop gap with the intent of doing a proper upgrade when THAT fails... and are still running the same thing.   Like anything, ymmv and it's not always to do with the quality or trustworthiness of said product. I've been provided with a bunch of compressor maps for Turbosmart turbos and will update my list based off that, they could prove to interesting reading and an interesting alternative as well.
    • Just cage it, call it a race car, and then fall in love with the chirp chirps through pit area!   Also, this is coming from someone with a completely locked diff...
    • I still have an old R32R left over from when they were a thing in the early 2000's. It was, for its time, done about right. But its time was 20 years ago.  I did try and update it a while back but it was cruelled by a (recommended) muppet of a tuna who couldnt tell his MAP from his TPS. The original spec was: Power FC, 700cc Sards, Nismo pump, 2860-5's, cams (Basically Poncam A's), Z32 AFM's and a half sorted oiling system. Thereabouts 430rwhp irrespective of what was done. So, yeah, very 1990's. I eventually got sick of it not being very refined and bought a Link G4 PNP with some 1000cc Bosch injectors. This was tuned badly and I put the car in the shed for a few years whilst I sulked and went and did other things. Ive come around to the idea of getting it going again so it has a new gearbox installed and some other minor things in the planning. So my questions are, variously (In the context of keeping the Link) What other sensors should I be running eg It has no wideband on it at the moment, nor fuel pressure. $? Is it worth chucking the old ignition system (ignitors etc) for new ignition coils? $2k? Cam/crank angle sensors? Can keep the aircon? $? Anything else? Sorry to launch another what should I do with my car thread but, you know, what should I do with my car? Random photo for historical context.
×
×
  • Create New...