Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This project is mainly for Greddy turbo fans, but I don't like copying them in OEM specifications, so I will mix and match wheels plus some customized profiled billet wheels for them to be different. The goal is for dynamic drivability, Modify housings to fit different types of vehicles, and perhaps adding ceramic roller bearing cartridges.

I'll be keen on getting one if it outperforms the standard td05 without the billet wheel as that's what I have now

Also my friend had a td06sl2 in those housings and had trouble controlling boost kept creeping have you fixed this problem by porting the gate or reccommend external gate with the td06

I've had the T518Z billet version finalized today with every thing machined up nicely.

IMAG1105.jpg

IMAG1107.jpg

It is currently on 18G compressor with a TD05H turbine. I will machine one more housing using SL2 turbine tomorrow

Depending how they go, you could potentially open up a nice little market for those turbos. I didn't really think about it before, but i was

thinking today

due to all the chinese exhaust housings for these mitsubishi stuff theres a ready made market for subarus in both twin scroll and single,

evos, RB's ,CA, SR, might be others i havnt noticed.

be very interesting to see how your modified versions went on those other vehicles compared to the stock variants

Anyway nice work

cheers

darren

i still don't understand how there are so many nice cast rear housings for the sr20 5bolt dump pattern

yet there are none for the rb20/25 one, stao has to use an adapter to make the 6 bolt dump

I just don't see how Stao can make that adapter cheaper than a nice stainless dump, it's quite a chunk of steel and plenty of machining work just to re-use the dump that may be fitted already.

Surely a 5 bolt stainless dump to fit up to the stock three bolt flange, in 3 inch would be cheaper, lighter and flow better?

So after a weekend of fitting the turbo, apart from the aftermarket manifold fun which set us back 4-5 hours everything was smooth sailing.

Water line was a quick fix and apart from one the of the oil fittings now being short, job was pretty straight forward. Helps having a mate that sorta does it for a living and a workshop at your disposal though.

One issue I am having though and I think other people have had is the dump pipe now sits up hard against a particular rubber house. Air con house or something I think?

Picture below:

406866_541629902518040_1736913673_n.jpg

What have people done to overcome this?

Being a track car, that rubber hose and whatever is under there is going to burn in about 5 minutes.

Exhaust lagging on the dump with it doubled up where it passes the hose but I'm looking at cutting the dump in half and rewelding at a different angle to avoid the hose and raise the lowest part of the dump.

Prob pull it off next weekend and start figuring it out.

That's the issue with spacing the dump back an inch, it gets pushed back into that aircon drain.

Try some heat shield around the rubber and wrap the dump. Might last a little while before it leaks into the car...

Well I believe the current ATR28 turbine wheels are much better turbine wheel to the TD05H, if it doesn't perform as planed then I will change it. Regarding to the wastegate flapper, I will fit a large 38mm gate to this housing.

That manifold sticks out about 20mms compare to stock, plus I think the JJR dumps do have the issue touching drain pipe. The pipe needs to be zip tied backwards or wrapped with heat wraps.

Hrmm ill see what I can do.

I'll double check but Im pretty sure its hard up right against the entrance hole, so there isn't much movement in trying to tie it hard against the chasis.

Heat wrap might last one session at Sandown Scotty lol

Anyway I've left it with my mate to have a think about what we do :/

Do you need air con for a track car?

Maybe just get rid of it and bypas the hose or something.

It's a track car but still my daily :/

I melted that hose log ago and have had 0 issues with it. Still getting an icy 18 degrees and no water leaks :D

Well that's intradasting.

We might cut another or bigger hole and loop it through.

Will let you guys know what we eventually do!

Hey Stao

Quick question. Do you know if Trent will adjust the boost via the adjustable actuator you have provided on the turbo or via a turbotech boost T that I currently have on the car?

If he just uses the adjustable actuator to control boost ill rip out the boost T out of the car.

Adjustable actuator? Unless there are different springs that come with it... Don't change the threaded shaft position. It needs to have around 3mm of preload, it isn't for adjusting boost.

He would normally adjust it through the boost controller, it gains better response that way. the actuator has to be pulled up tight.

Adjustable actuator? Unless there are different springs that come with it... Don't change the threaded shaft position. It needs to have around 3mm of preload, it isn't for adjusting boost.

Oh me no know. I just remember another mate asking me the other day lol

Haven't changed the preload on the actuator didn't need to remove in on the install, so its as is from Stao :)

He would normally adjust it through the boost controller, it gains better response that way. the actuator has to be pulled up tight.

Cheers!

Just need to fix the aircon hose. Do the injectors and afm then Im done!

Just waiting on a booking time from Trent/Cat

Oh and also ordering a new 3inch 100 cell venom 5inch body cat.

Found out my old cat was 2.6inch.

And don't want to run a de-cat dont want a potential $10,000 fine :/

Picture below:

406866_541629902518040_1736913673_n.jpg

Being a track car, that rubber hose and whatever is under there is going to burn in about 5 minutes.

If this is a track car then I think you are worried about the wrong black hose. I would be doing something about the coolant hose going to the heater core that is only a few inches from the no.6 cylinder runner on the manifold you are running

If you run 50;50 coolant and the temps are up over 95 when running and it splits then this can happen to you too :)

Winton_Trouble.jpg

462Close_Up.JPG

End up with ethylene glycol being sprayed onto a rad hot exhaust which can lead to some unexpected, interesting problems :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...