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some turbo updates:

This is the newer version of the SS2 high flow. I've turned the compressor wheel into the 11 blade design. Probably because the tight packed blades is more effective in trapping air in, it required a lot less wastegate duty cycle (some thing like half) to hold 22psi of boost. So on a internally gated setup it should make a difference in terms of holding steady boost at upper rev range.

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Semi slicks are rubbish for the drag strip, the widewall is much too hard. Good street tyres with lowered pressure will perform way better than semi's on the drag strip from my experience.

  On 18/04/2013 at 3:48 AM, Super Drager said:

Semi slicks are rubbish for the drag strip, the widewall is much too hard. Good street tyres with lowered pressure will perform way better than semi's on the drag strip from my experience.

Thanks for posting this, I was considering getting semi's for my next trip back to the track & for all round since I don't do many kms. I would've thought they were better too.

Now I guess I'll save up for some 16/17 inch rims and get MT ET streets or something.

No. I don't think he was saying that at all. What he was saying is that semi slicks, in the narrow sense of meaning that we take to be semi-slicks as used on the circuit or street, are crap for drag. MT ETs would not be called a semi slick. They'd be rightly called a drag radial.

Of course he wasn't actually even talking about real semi-slicks, but instead talking about UHP tyres. But seeing as you didn't read properly, you could be excused for thinking that.

Just a quick off topic question, didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for.

I'm going to degree my cams next week sometime just to cross cam timing off the list once and for all, but just want to check if my car will still be driveable on the current tune after any changes? I know MAP sensors are sensitive to changes in the efficiency of the motor, will adjusting cam timing make it unhappy or should it be ok?

  On 18/04/2013 at 2:56 AM, hypergear said:

some turbo updates:

This is the newer version of the SS2 high flow. I've turned the compressor wheel into the 11 blade design. Probably because the tight packed blades is more effective in trapping air in, it required a lot less wastegate duty cycle (some thing like half) to hold 22psi of boost. So on a internally gated setup it should make a difference in terms of holding steady boost at upper rev range.

Have you had it on the dyno yet? Will be interesting to see the results as always :)

it depends how far off they are. if its only a small move it should be fine.. Anything more than 5 degrees and I would be very wary.

I moved my exhaust cam 8 degrees once (accident) and the car ran SUPER lean, had no power what so ever.

I am not expecting it to be out my much if at all, maybe 2 degrees. But gonna do it anyway to cross it off the list. I've got the wideband hooked up so I can keep an eye on mixtures, and if it is out at all then I certainly won't be boosting anywhere until I get a tune. I just wanted to make sure I can drive it to the tuners once it's all setup.

  On 18/04/2013 at 9:55 AM, Hanaldo said:

Just a quick off topic question, didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for.

I'm going to degree my cams next week sometime just to cross cam timing off the list once and for all, but just want to check if my car will still be driveable on the current tune after any changes? I know MAP sensors are sensitive to changes in the efficiency of the motor, will adjusting cam timing make it unhappy or should it be ok?

i've recently installed cam gears, advanced intake and retarded exhaust after i found the best settings for response so now turbo hits full boost 500rpms sooner.

that said car barely holds idle and it feels like its leaning out as i'm getting more air sooner so i'd say a tune is needed

Yes no doubt it needs a tune to boost. I'm just talking general driveability, like when I installed the cams the car would be stall on decel because the change in efficiency upset the map based tune.

I just want to know whether my steering and brakes are likely to fail when approaching an intersection again, cos they is something I'd rather avoid repeating :P

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