Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[34GeeTeeTee]

feel free to bang through your map and i will have a look over it if your still chasing neddies.

This....... Is AWESOME!

[Lithium]

sounds good Hanaldo, well done on the fault finding..always a massive pain in the ass...

cheers

darren

+1

Also good to hear that some of the drag results being off par for the dyno figures are now explainable, ideal result really! See, us folks who are saying things to the effect of "the strip results don't match the dyno results, something isn't right" aren't being haters at all - it is merely pointing out that one way or another there should be more performance to be had and something probably needs to be sorted.

Cheers for updating the thread with progress - that is what really helps these threads be genuinely informative, and nice work!

[jet_r31]

^thats right, and dynoes can all read different across the board whereas mph is going to be a more controllable factor.

Ive been through the whole leak thing, power curve looks good on a dyno, laggier on the road than it should be and mph way, way down before scenario(like 6mph)

myself..it sucks a cock and its a prick to find

My brother had the same, 2 small cooler split hoses on a GT30 setup, fixed them and it made 10rwkw per hose..so 20rwkw..lol and then the kw per psi of boost added after came good aswell, whereas before that it was just leaking more with more boost and adding it made it worse

So many of us here have been through it before..and im keen as to see how you go now!

cheers

darren

[copycutter]

Nice one Hanaldo, hope it goes well next tune! I'm having my own boost leak problems now and don't have the air compressor setup to easily find it either, it's a bitch.

[wolverine]

I am glad I use tuners that smoke test before tuning....so much head fcuk saved.

[Hanaldo]

Yeh tuners here don't seem to even know what that is

Nick, I bought my 2hp/24L air compressor, fitted air hose, tyre inflator, and dust blow gun all for $80. And my end cap I made up for about $2. Highly recommend, it's sooo easy to find leaks.

[Hanaldo]

Ok, so I'm in the process of degreeing my cams, but I don't understand the Tomei cam spec card. Would somebody be able to take a look at the cam specs card on the Tomei website for the R34 Type B cams and help me out?

I THINK the specs card is showing crank degrees rather than cam degrees, so I want the cam angle to be 115 degrees BTDC, correct?

[Hanaldo]

Doing the exhaust cam by the way

[GTScotT]

Sorry Martin, wish I could help with the cams..

Stao do you think that housing will be as accurately made as an original TS housing? Especially the shape and sizing of the two scrolls towards the nozzle area.

[t_revz]

You want max cam lift for intake 120 atdc on crank wheel and max exh lift 245 atdc or 115 btdc

[Hanaldo]

Yep thanks Trev, confirmed what I later worked out just finished the exhaust cam. It was 4.6 degrees advanced. Have now set it to spot on 115 degrees BTDC.

Now to do the intake... This is gonna be fun took about an hour and a half of dizzily trying to rotate the cam gear by 0.5 of a crank degree, and that's with being able to adjust the gear from the front. This intake gear is gonna be tedious if it's out

[GTScotT]

im guessing you cant access all the bolts easily? maybe undo them all and leave them finger tight then lock it with 1 or 2 of the bolts, remove the gear to lock them all then re-install and check with degree wheel again.

Nice to know you have made headway.. 4.6 degrees on the exhaust is massive.

[Hanaldo]

Well the trouble with the intake gear is (I assume) we need to take the whole thing off and apart to adjust it. Which means taking the degree wheel, tensioner and timing belt off. Then adjusting it, then refitting it all and trying again.

Unless someone can point out an easier way, I haven't done it before. Trev?

[Hanaldo]

And Yeh, I'm very surprised how far out it was. I don't understand how it could be so far out... Only the head has been decked when it was reconditioned, and there is no way it was decked enough to throw the timing out 4.6 degrees. So my only guess is that is how far out the camshaft was from its intended specs?

[Hanaldo]

Wow. The intake cam is 7.8 degrees advanced. I've triple checked the equipment, I've triple checked the measurements. Its all correct, it's not an error from what I can see. But that is way out...

[HR32GTS 4DOOR]

It's good you are sorting your setup out Hanaldo, Hopefully you can crank some more power out of that turbo.

[Hanaldo]

Yes, we shall see! These cam timing numbers give me confidence... Have been forced to stop until Monday though, don't have a 10mm allen key to take the VCT gear off. So I have until then to make sure these numbers are all spot on and find out how exactly to adjust the VCT gear.

[Missileman]

Yep thanks Trev, confirmed what I later worked out just finished the exhaust cam. It was 4.6 degrees advanced. Have now set it to spot on 115 degrees BTDC.

Now to do the intake... This is gonna be fun took about an hour and a half of dizzily trying to rotate the cam gear by 0.5 of a crank degree, and that's with being able to adjust the gear from the front. This intake gear is gonna be tedious if it's out

should write up a tutorial

if yours are that far out then others may benefit too

[GTScotT]

7.8 degrees... That is insane.

its been a while since I fiddled with an RB but can't you take off the back plate which goes between the rocker covers and the gears which will give you access to the back of the intake gear? Just working off memory so feel free to tell me I'm way off.

Sounds like you have big news to come :-)

[t_revz]

I just backed timing belt tension off a bit and rotate crank a smidge to slip the pulley off so balancer etc never had to come off for each adjustment. Think I got it in 3 adjustments.

I'd have to look yours up but on non neo standard exh is 117 and poncam is 115 so automatically there is 2 degrees. Maybe yours is a bigger difference. 7.8 degrees on intake is a whole tooth out

Are you checking at max lift or picking 2 measurements either side of max lift (ie .5mm before and after max lift and finding the centre mark) ?