Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 23/04/2013 at 1:23 PM, STATUS said:

feel free to bang through your map and i will have a look over it if your still chasing neddies.

This....... Is AWESOME! :yes:

  On 22/04/2013 at 6:51 AM, jet_r31 said:

sounds good Hanaldo, well done on the fault finding..always a massive pain in the ass...

cheers

darren

+1

Also good to hear that some of the drag results being off par for the dyno figures are now explainable, ideal result really! See, us folks who are saying things to the effect of "the strip results don't match the dyno results, something isn't right" aren't being haters at all - it is merely pointing out that one way or another there should be more performance to be had and something probably needs to be sorted.

Cheers for updating the thread with progress - that is what really helps these threads be genuinely informative, and nice work!

  • Like 1

^thats right, and dynoes can all read different across the board whereas mph is going to be a more controllable factor.

Ive been through the whole leak thing, power curve looks good on a dyno, laggier on the road than it should be and mph way, way down before scenario(like 6mph)

myself..it sucks a cock and its a prick to find

My brother had the same, 2 small cooler split hoses on a GT30 setup, fixed them and it made 10rwkw per hose..so 20rwkw..lol and then the kw per psi of boost added after came good aswell, whereas before that it was just leaking more with more boost and adding it made it worse

So many of us here have been through it before..and im keen as to see how you go now!

cheers

darren

Nice one Hanaldo, hope it goes well next tune! I'm having my own boost leak problems now and don't have the air compressor setup to easily find it either, it's a bitch.

Yeh tuners here don't seem to even know what that is :/

Nick, I bought my 2hp/24L air compressor, fitted air hose, tyre inflator, and dust blow gun all for $80. And my end cap I made up for about $2. Highly recommend, it's sooo easy to find leaks.

Ok, so I'm in the process of degreeing my cams, but I don't understand the Tomei cam spec card. Would somebody be able to take a look at the cam specs card on the Tomei website for the R34 Type B cams and help me out?

I THINK the specs card is showing crank degrees rather than cam degrees, so I want the cam angle to be 115 degrees BTDC, correct?

Sorry Martin, wish I could help with the cams..

Stao do you think that housing will be as accurately made as an original TS housing? Especially the shape and sizing of the two scrolls towards the nozzle area.

Yep thanks Trev, confirmed what I later worked out :D just finished the exhaust cam. It was 4.6 degrees advanced. Have now set it to spot on 115 degrees BTDC.

Now to do the intake... This is gonna be fun :glare: took about an hour and a half of dizzily trying to rotate the cam gear by 0.5 of a crank degree, and that's with being able to adjust the gear from the front. This intake gear is gonna be tedious if it's out :/

im guessing you cant access all the bolts easily? maybe undo them all and leave them finger tight then lock it with 1 or 2 of the bolts, remove the gear to lock them all then re-install and check with degree wheel again.

Nice to know you have made headway.. 4.6 degrees on the exhaust is massive.

Well the trouble with the intake gear is (I assume) we need to take the whole thing off and apart to adjust it. Which means taking the degree wheel, tensioner and timing belt off. Then adjusting it, then refitting it all and trying again.

Unless someone can point out an easier way, I haven't done it before. Trev?

And Yeh, I'm very surprised how far out it was. I don't understand how it could be so far out... Only the head has been decked when it was reconditioned, and there is no way it was decked enough to throw the timing out 4.6 degrees. So my only guess is that is how far out the camshaft was from its intended specs?

Wow. The intake cam is 7.8 degrees advanced. I've triple checked the equipment, I've triple checked the measurements. Its all correct, it's not an error from what I can see. But that is way out...

Yes, we shall see! These cam timing numbers give me confidence... Have been forced to stop until Monday though, don't have a 10mm allen key to take the VCT gear off. So I have until then to make sure these numbers are all spot on and find out how exactly to adjust the VCT gear.

  On 26/04/2013 at 1:39 PM, Hanaldo said:

Yep thanks Trev, confirmed what I later worked out :D just finished the exhaust cam. It was 4.6 degrees advanced. Have now set it to spot on 115 degrees BTDC.

Now to do the intake... This is gonna be fun :glare: took about an hour and a half of dizzily trying to rotate the cam gear by 0.5 of a crank degree, and that's with being able to adjust the gear from the front. This intake gear is gonna be tedious if it's out :/

should write up a tutorial

if yours are that far out then others may benefit too

7.8 degrees... That is insane.

its been a while since I fiddled with an RB but can't you take off the back plate which goes between the rocker covers and the gears which will give you access to the back of the intake gear? Just working off memory so feel free to tell me I'm way off.

Sounds like you have big news to come :-)

I just backed timing belt tension off a bit and rotate crank a smidge to slip the pulley off so balancer etc never had to come off for each adjustment. Think I got it in 3 adjustments.

I'd have to look yours up but on non neo standard exh is 117 and poncam is 115 so automatically there is 2 degrees. Maybe yours is a bigger difference. 7.8 degrees on intake is a whole tooth out :/

Are you checking at max lift or picking 2 measurements either side of max lift (ie .5mm before and after max lift and finding the centre mark) ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 馃檪 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
  • Create New...