Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats odd..

Have you checked cam timing on that motor Darren? just to make sure everything lines up to the marks that its supposed to?

Was the converter locked? If so, I can't see the box losing that much power between runs.

When I get mine tuned it is very consistent, although on other dyno's it has shown the same power loss each run. Either the front wasn't strapped down well enough (which is usually the cause) Or they simply weren't letting it cool enough between runs perhaps? I assume you have a large trans cooler?

I bet it hauls now, it doesn't feel brutal but it will be deceptively quick for such a heavy car.

Never ever looked at cams, its all stock with the cambelt done in japan not long ago. im suprised it took no more boost, but theres a few things i can look at

I'm not stressed about that, it was the power going or weirdo that had me stumped..weird.

the worst part is it is a family car i can't really play with it will nilly, or take the driveshaft out every week to dyno it, thats the pain in the ass,,lol

cheers

darren

Was the converter locked? If so, I can't see the box losing that much power between runs.

When I get mine tuned it is very consistent, although on other dyno's it has shown the same power loss each run. Either the front wasn't strapped down well enough (which is usually the cause) Or they simply weren't letting it cool enough between runs perhaps? I assume you have a large trans cooler?

I bet it hauls now, it doesn't feel brutal but it will be deceptively quick for such a heavy car.

converter locked, not letting cool down really, 2 massive transcoolers, one has a thermo, total overkill..lol

yeh its fast,it would be deceptively quick but even my mates vl that runs 10.3@133 doesn't feel quick to me either, thats linear to in its delivery

my mates brother has a car that we use for a guidepost..R34 270rwkw on 17-18psi, 12.00@117mph. ill see how it goes against that, my mates 338rwkw stagea flogs it

cheers

darren

I need to get my car looked at, its pinging at the end of the rev table around 6500 - 7000rpm. Its on actuator pressure to, about 14 - 15.5 psi. Has me stumped. I can't check what part of the ignition table it pings at because it doesn't always do it. I guesstimate between the 6400 rpm to 7000 rpm @ 6500 - 8678 load in the pfc. Sits on about 20 - 21 degrees in those rows. High boost is brutal power but I can't risk ever using it incase the pinging becomes dangerous. Really need to get my tune redone :( but before this I need to decide if my ECU is gonna change or not. Power FC to Adaptronic Select? Still want to unleash the potential 300kw the ss2 has.

I think its not a bad result for a auto considering its usually 20kws behind a manual box. What does a locked convert do? I'm thinking of working out my Kia's auto.

I need to get my car looked at, its pinging at the end of the rev table around 6500 - 7000rpm. Its on actuator pressure to, about 14 - 15.5 psi. Has me stumped. I can't check what part of the ignition table it pings at because it doesn't always do it. I guesstimate between the 6400 rpm to 7000 rpm @ 6500 - 8678 load in the pfc. Sits on about 20 - 21 degrees in those rows. High boost is brutal power but I can't risk ever using it incase the pinging becomes dangerous. Really need to get my tune redone :( but before this I need to decide if my ECU is gonna change or not. Power FC to Adaptronic Select? Still want to unleash the potential 300kw the ss2 has.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pull a couple of degrees timing out of those cells.

If you manually lock the converter it locks the stator, similar to a manual clutch. The box will stall the engine if you come to a stop without disengaging it. Generally I run it always unlocked on the street, but on the dyno I lock it to transfer the power without as much loss or heat. It isn't a good idea to shift gears with the converter locked as you may snap the input shaft or damage the converter.

Generally the converter only locks on cruise for efficiency but the Stagea locks constantly in manual mode to improve acceleration, only unlocking to shift gears.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pull a couple of degrees timing out of those cells.

I pulled about 3 to 4 degrees out of everything above 5krpm mid to high load, I thought I creased it out as it didn't ping for about a week but today it reared its head again. I'll upload a dump of the original tune here so you can glance over it.

post-68383-0-55769500-1370523890_thumb.jpg

THat 6750 load line has a strangely high set of timings relative to the load lines above and below. A hump in the map if you will. The lower rpm end of that range you highlighted is prime pinging territory (upper end of the peak torque region). Makes you wonder if perhaps that part of the tune isn't a bit close to the edge.

Do you know if your fuel pressure is still up to scratch? Sudden onset pinging could be a weakening of the pump.

Yeah it does look abit weird hence why I went to jez to touch it up and thats the best we could do in a short time. You should see the previous tune which cost me too much.

Fuel pressure im not sure of. Its got a 1 year old 040 in there running off standard regulator. It does look high especially for 19 psi high boost. Thats why I was interested to see this guy running high timing with no issues.

If you notice after row 17 the timing drops off hard, I dropped the timing heaps just incase of the turbo over boosting for whatever reason

note: this is for a HKS2535 dinosaur turbo.. but it should give you an idea of how a timing map should look like.. ideally more load, less timing, less load more timing, and more timing after max torque vs. RPM.

powerFC Igntion.xls

I need to get my car looked at, its pinging at the end of the rev table around 6500 - 7000rpm. Its on actuator pressure to, about 14 - 15.5 psi. Has me stumped. I can't check what part of the ignition table it pings at because it doesn't always do it. I guesstimate between the 6400 rpm to 7000 rpm @ 6500 - 8678 load in the pfc. Sits on about 20 - 21 degrees in those rows. High boost is brutal power but I can't risk ever using it incase the pinging becomes dangerous. Really need to get my tune redone :( but before this I need to decide if my ECU is gonna change or not. Power FC to Adaptronic Select? Still want to unleash the potential 300kw the ss2 has.

Sound familiar Sarge, I was having similar issues with my hks pro s in my 33 random pinging that would come and go. Made it really hard to explain it to JEZ cause I would try and replicate it for him then it wouldn't ping. Poor bugger chucked it on the dyno, had a play, all good. 3 days later it would ping randomly again.

Ended up driving around for months on low boost cause I just didn't trust the knock sensors any more.

The WMI has definately gotten rid of any knock, but took a lot of stuffing around by Jez to sort out.

Does your head in aye!

Happened to u with another tuner too. Bloody cars :)

Yeah well lets not go into what you found when you had a look at the map lol.

As I said to you mate, it's ALWAYS the tuners fault lol

Sarge can u hear it pinging? Does it happen on high boost?

What are the afr's doing?

maybe not enough throttle enrichment? I had that issue when I smashed the pedal here and there, I added in more throttle enrichment and it went away (just from my personal experience)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...