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Yes they will work. Not sure how much room is there as it will require two actuators for an internally gated setup.

SS3 VNT Final result of peek 407rwkws with 24psi on Stock inlet manifold, cams and cam gears.

it read 265rwkws @ 4000RPMs and 95rwkws @ 3000RPMs.

ss2vntpower.jpg

Peek 24psi by 3750RPMs and Made 20psi by 3700RPMs. I'm still off the target of 3500RPMs. Its reaching the limit of VNT capacity working with such a large size turbocharger. Even tho, still super responsive to drive on road.ss2vntboost.jpg

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The VNT system made a large turbocharger drive like a baby turbo while still been able to pull the numbers up top. I've overlaid today's result against a high flowed R33 turbocharger's result:

ss3vstdhf.jpg

This is once again absolutely mental results

Stao. All these good state of the art turbochargers coming from you stao makes it hard to actually pick a single turbo lol. There all so good in there own individual way. :). I'm stuck between a hta 3076r or hta 3582r in the FP range. But then stao brings out these crazy power making turbo's as above the ss3 VNT. I wish I could afford them all and bolt them to 3 different rb skylines haha. Hta's are F ing epic but I keep coming back to thinking support the local Aussie bloke busting his arse to deliver some of the best matched, made and suited turbos for our humble RB machines :)

How much for the SS3 VNT do you think stao? There a ceramic bearing turbo right stao? I'm so keen to run one on my forged+cammed e85 sucking RB25. The r33 is currently at work getting prepped to respray it original KR4 silver. So it's tidy looking to a tee. Rwc I hope rego and bring on a high mount :) I should so stop drinking now lol. I'm rabbiting on like a goose. Haha

Cheers Josh and night all. :)

Thanks for your support.

This particular one will cost $2500 to produce, the ceramic rollers alone is $400. Plus all other little engineering work, the making of it is very involving.

I can also build you a ATR43SS4 in VNT turbine setup for the same price. Which is I believe para with GTX3582 in terms of HP, without the lag.

Stao do you ever sleep/rest? :P

Good results again! Interesting too see a comparison against the Garrett/FP turbos etc on the same car/dyno combo :yes:

  • Like 1

Does Chequered have any GT3582R or GT3076R on a stock RB25 from that dyno to compare with? It'd be really interesting to see the difference, looks like an awesome result - nice work :)

Be interesting to see how they go on pump gas, too!

I can ask him next week. Going back to tune my Kia :D .

As far as the result concern, it doesn't seems like this turbocharger is maxed out. As shown with increase of boost result in evenly increasing of power and torque. When the turbocharger is getting maxed, the upper rev power and torque usually merge with an additional psi of boost. I guess it was late and we all got excited that it made 400rwkws+ and left for hamburgers.

Driving home last night, give it a foot full, car loses all boost and makes a tingly rattly noise, pop the bonnet this morning and found the culprit. Wastegate arm was welded on by I'm assuming someone who had their first go at welding?
Didn't even penetrate the metal!
So now I've got to get it towed or drive it gingerly to someone to weld the broken bit back on, love taking days off work for the car !

This is on my Hi Flow 34 turbo, hence posting in here !

post-92324-0-16254700-1372322078_thumb.jpg

Edited by Brett_J

Was that the factory rear housing or one Stao made?

The pin that arm welds to is easy to seize if you put too much heat into it. I don't think they put too much of a weld on them in most cases.

You won't need to tow it either, it will drive fine.

Was that the factory rear housing or one Stao made?

The pin that arm welds to is easy to seize if you put too much heat into it. I don't think they put too much of a weld on them in most cases.

You won't need to tow it either, it will drive fine.

It was the one Stao made or was bolted on, not stock anyway, the piece that's broken looks like it's been made out of several small bits of metal, it's not one single piece, there's still another piece left on the pin.Was welded with a quick tack weld only,not enough heat to penetrate the metal.

That's unlucky, but with modified cars if that's the biggest problem you came across you are doing very well!

Drive the car, you can't hurt it. No tow required

I'm well aware that it's a minor problem, been in the game a long time/owned my own workshop and such, it's just an annoyance, It's an auto an laggy as f**k at the best of times, with the wastegate flapping about it has 0 boost and is like driving in 5th gear from idle, so unless I go hire a welder and fix it myself, I'll get it towed as I get free tows and nothing is in the immediate vicinty.

Not having a go at Stao's work, just bringing it up so maybe look at giving the others a proper weld, that's all.

Could really be an excuse to weld up the gate and go external :P

Edited by Brett_J

That is the wastegate lever extender piece. They all been tiged by a well know member here, I haven't seen any with this issues but I guess shit happens and I will rise the concern.

It won't damage the turbocharger or the engine, If you like to send me the adaptor piece I will have it repaired for you under warranty.

If you decide to have it welded your self, make sure preload the actuator rod after welding. That will makes a big difference in response.

That is the wastegate lever extender piece. They all been tiged by a well know member here, I haven't seen any with this issues but I guess shit happens and I will rise the concern.

It won't damage the turbocharger or the engine, If you like to send me the adaptor piece I will have it repaired for you under warranty.

If you decide to have it welded your self, make sure preload the actuator rod after welding. That will makes a big difference in response.

Like you said Shit happens, I used to be a welder years ago, and occasionally you'll forget to weld something fully after tacking it up, no biggie, just thought I'd show you.

I'll sort it myself tomorrow, and will sort the pre load too.

Check Page 365 for actuator preloading instruction. Note it is a analog valve so it doesn't require a lot of boost to initiate the opening process, Preload keeps it shuts for longer, resulting in better response.

Some one drop off a dead Evo 10 turbo last week for high flowing. That is pretty interesting working with inverted wheels (why would they do that). Its going to be a inverted SLSS2 will upload photos after its completion.

Re reverse rotation: its a packaging constraint. The entire motor got flipped when they went to the evo 4 and they didn't have a lot of space between the motor and the radiator, and the turbo needed to face towards the gearbox side.


In a FWD SR20 they angle the turbo back towards the motor and are only using single scroll T2 housings, so fitment isn't an issue. In the evos 4-9 the turbo is a chunky twin scroll so they utilise the space between the exhaust manifold and the block to make it more compact.

I am not sure if the 10 has the same packaging constraints but after doing 6 model variations of reverse scrolls I would say they kept the formula they had been working with for so many years for reasons not limited to packaging constraints.

They probably kept with a core that had proven reliable and just changed the housings/comp wheel, as noted.

There could still be packaging constraints, I am not sure.

your new vnt turbo has still got me flabbergasted.... i over layed it with john richo's r33 h/flow and they both make the same power @ 3000rpm..

If i hadnt seen the result for myself id call bullshit.

24psi and 0.82 lambda with 24 degrees (max) of ignition timing on e85 for those who wish to know the specifics. Vct switched off @5000rpm.

On one run the vnt line came off the actuator and it nosed over hard (30-40rwkw loss) so i can 100% vouch for the difference it makes.

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