Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i guessing the ss4 comp wheel is 62mm ish, have you backed to back them

on xr6turbos. Be a better match no doubt to the old staple diet of fitting

the t04z wheel to them before the gtx3582 came out. Wonder what a

ss4 would be like with a p- trim sized rear?

cheers

darren

ss4s compressor is in 85mms compare to the usual 82mms. I will be using that with a .82 turbine. That should be plenty for a 2.5l with a large external gate.

Yes and I think I can make it street drive able too.

LOL that would be hilarious. Something tells me it wouldn't last long, and "drivable" would need to be very loosely defined :D

LOL that would be hilarious. Something tells me "it" wouldn't last long, and "drivable" would need to be very loosely defined :D

It: would be every thing apart from the turbocharger.

Pretty sure I can make it work. So interested to give it a shot? :D

have a problem...my external gate is quiet sometimes..car goes lame..other times gate is loud(like it should be)..

car goes pretty hard for what it is...when gate is loud, guessing its a boost leak..a random one. As i never drive it,and 99 percentof the time have the kids

in car, its taken me 5-6 weeks to work out

what is happening, thought my ears and bum dyno where broken.

I actually drove it all last weekend,by myself for once it was wet road was damp..noisy gate..no traction in first and quarter way through second(auto).did this

about 4 times , then went to a mates .first gear ,no noise

no wheelspin in first and gutless as f**k and then it twigged..i am not dreaming

(and no i don't usually drive like this, i actually hated giving the poor thing a hard time, but i wanted to establish if i was infact dreaming or not)

boost leak..random..stock bov's failing perhaps?, anyone had this problem before..might explain a few things like the turbo woudn't make

any power over 19psi on dyno..any more and it pumped hot air , had me puzzled at the time , and the ex gate was quiet then aswell from memory..actually mate has identical setup and gate and was quiet at the time compared to his.....having never driven it before i thought it was the way it was, but no its been louder after..

actually few other things have happened aswell, now i think of it..hmmm, like boost went up WAY higher than what the ebc was setup for on dyno'

which was 19psi. I originally though it was the ebc as it was broken and repaired by my brother and i was going to test a few things this weekend.

i was just surfing sau, and noticed someone has similiar problem, and quiet ex gate and they hadn't hooked up there blow of valve

line so it stayed open..which leads me to look there tomoz , maybe its faulty???

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

when ive had broken diaphragm, its broken...doesn't fix itself,won't it overboost?..its underboosting..

its a turbodumb 38mm with 19psi spring

Car has been doing this from the beginning, its random Stao, sometimes loud, sometimes quiet, feels fast, feels slow

i thought it was the surroundings and the noise sometimes didn't echoe, and thought i was just getting used to power, but no its not that, its gutless

when its quiet

mate had same problem with gcg hi-flow, 215rwkw and shit boost control, put a turbosmart replacement blow off valve on and made 244rwkw

he told me to fit one when i built it, but searching on here, everyone said they are generally fine so i left it

I'll check gate on weekend aswell

cheers

darren

It: would be every thing apart from the turbocharger.

Pretty sure I can make it work. So interested to give it a shot? :D

Turbo would probably find a way to die just so it doesn't have to put up with being on such a pathetically depressing setup :P but yeah, every part of the engine and drivetrain other than the turbo would shit itself in spectacular fashion methinks! hahaha

On a semi-serious note, later this year I'll look into getting rid of the van and replacing it with something like a Golf R....depending on warranty etc (if I buy new or used), I might look into modifying it for ~250awkw or maybe a touch more, and optimum response...who knows where that'll lead me :P

Hooo The VW Golf R. Remember to buy the one with a Wet box. Don't go any where near the DSG dry box stuff. They are horribly bad. The Chinese government made VW to do a huge recall on all their cars with DSG dry boxes, and many of my VW clients and tuners I build turbos for have reported this problem.

They also run direct injection, you can run them on Audi R4 mechanical fuel pumps and injectors. There isn't much ecu options apart from few people that makes fixed data flash tunes. I think Link G4 recently made some thing for older Golf models, but doesn't work with current models.

VW modification cost lots of $$$$ and the end results are no where near to a stock Rb25det.

If u got the cash Buy my test rig :yes: its already been modified and all you have to do is drive it. I need garage room for a GTR.

Hooo The VW Golf R. Remember to buy the one with a Wet box. Don't go any where near the DSG dry box stuff. They are horribly bad. The Chinese government made VW to do a huge recall on all their cars with DSG dry boxes, and many of my VW clients and tuners I build turbos for have reported this problem.

They also run direct injection, you can run them on Audi R4 mechanical fuel pumps and injectors. There isn't much ecu options apart from few people that makes fixed data flash tunes. I think Link G4 recently made some thing for older Golf models, but doesn't work with current models.

VW modification cost lots of $$$$ and the end results are no where near to a stock Rb25det.

If u got the cash Buy my test rig :yes: its already been modified and all you have to do is drive it. I need garage room for a GTR.

The box issue is only in the 7 speeds yeah?

7 speed DSG, there are also reports from the wet boxes failure, how ever the problem isn't as severe. Apparently they stuck in gears, rapid shifting gears, case sudden lose of power or sudden acceleration. VW declear a problem with the Auto controller software, that causes the premature wear of its clutch plates and fly wheel. how ever the issues are yet to be rectified. And that is on a factory tuned vehicle. Seems to be in certain VW from 2009 ~ current.

7 speed DSG, there are also reports from the wet boxes failure, how ever the problem isn't as severe. Apparently they stuck in gears, rapid shifting gears, case sudden lose of power or sudden acceleration. VW declear a problem with the Auto controller software, that causes the premature wear of its clutch plates and fly wheel. how ever the issues are yet to be rectified. And that is on a factory tuned vehicle. Seems to be in certain VW from 2009 ~ current.

Ooh... Missus has the 2012 GTi and thought she was in the clear after the recalls... Maybe not! Anyway, not derailing your thread............... Again :P

Hooo The VW Golf R. Remember to buy the one with a Wet box. Don't go any where near the DSG dry box stuff. They are horribly bad. The Chinese government made VW to do a huge recall on all their cars with DSG dry boxes, and many of my VW clients and tuners I build turbos for have reported this problem.

They also run direct injection, you can run them on Audi R4 mechanical fuel pumps and injectors. There isn't much ecu options apart from few people that makes fixed data flash tunes. I think Link G4 recently made some thing for older Golf models, but doesn't work with current models.

VW modification cost lots of $$$$ and the end results are no where near to a stock Rb25det.

If u got the cash Buy my test rig :yes: its already been modified and all you have to do is drive it. I need garage room for a GTR.

I don't understand this "wet/dry" box dealio, but the Golf R only comes with a 6 spd DSG I believe.....either way, if I go back to a performance car of any kind, I don't think I could go back to a Skyline lol. As much as I LOVED driving that car, the endless f**king problems it had along with the money it drained just maintaining it to the piss poor standard it was at really drained me emotionally >.<

I'd only get something that literally didn't need another cent put into it. Full engine build, reconditioned gearbox, looks great, zero problems. Unfortunately for the money I'd need to fork out for the right Skyline, I could get something much "better quality" :(

Plus if I went back to a Skyline, it would probably have to be a GT-R hahaha

Actually after modifying S14, 180sx, 300ZX, Soarer and R32. Modding R33 is like walking into heaven, this is probably the easiest car to modify, with plenty of parts available, and getting power out of the Rb25det is so easy. Compare to the rest the R33 made the most amount of power with the least amount of money spent.

Actually after modifying S14, 180sx, 300ZX, Soarer and R32. Modding R33 is like walking into heaven, this is probably the easiest car to modify, with plenty of parts available, and getting power out of the Rb25det is so easy. Compare to the rest the R33 made the most amount of power with the least amount of money spent.

Definitely, but after the headaches mine put me through it'd wanna be fully engineered and ACT RWC provided before I'd even entertain the idea of getting another one haha... I do miss 2nd gear ice skating in the dry though :(

Some updates:

This is the SS1PU Alfa version.

ss1pu1.JPG

I will make Alfa version stand for our most advanced turbo systems that delivers the ultimate power and response. VNT, BB, CBB, Billet wheels, customized bell shape inner profiles and etc will all be parts of this project.

As in the turbocharger above: I have trimmed down a older SS2 comp wheel to produce around the 320rwkws mark since the turbine end is only capable of flowing up to 322rwkws. Which I rather turn the additional load into response. I want this to be the most responsive 320rwkws any thing can ever produce.

Some updates:

This is the SS1PU Alfa version.

ss1pu1.JPG

I will make Alfa version stand for our most advanced turbo systems that delivers the ultimate power and response. VNT, BB, CBB, Billet wheels, customized bell shape inner profiles and etc will all be parts of this project.

As in the turbocharger above: I have trimmed down a older SS2 comp wheel to produce around the 320rwkws mark since the turbine end is only capable of flowing up to 322rwkws. Which I rather turn the additional load into response. I want this to be the most responsive 320rwkws any thing can ever produce.

does it come with a HKS badge?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...