Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 01/08/2013 at 8:38 AM, hy_rpm said:

Remember mine is peaking at 25psi so it usually takes alil longer the higher the boost if you want to compare to yours at 20psi it gets there by 3600rpm

Only bad thing about it is it noses off abit after 6000rpm but might be sorted now due to the 4psi drop before now I got a 20psi actuator which seemed to fix it

Ah yeah true.

I'm keen for another visit to the dyno. Need to get my bugs fixed and I hope he's willing to squeeze 10/10s out of it now :(

So I will have to look at preloading my wastegate.

Can you purchase better aftermarket actuators?

From what I remember it was pinging at the 250 mark so was backed off slightly. Would it have the same limitation if I was to get it to hold the 20psi throughout the rev range?

  On 02/08/2013 at 1:18 AM, Manuel Kasko said:

So I will have to look at preloading my wastegate.

Can you purchase better aftermarket actuators?

From what I remember it was pinging at the 250 mark so was backed off slightly. Would it have the same limitation if I was to get it to hold the 20psi throughout the rev range?

Depends on WHY it was pinging, but more than likely yes - if anything worse.

IMG_1687.jpg
image hosting 30 mb

Got my car tuned today. It's running an atr43g2.5 and made 250rwkw with boost hitting 21psi and coming down to 16psi.

The tuner was saying that if they tried to add in more boost they had to keep pulling timing so unfortunately this is how they had to tune it. Any ideas what may be going on Stao?
  On 02/08/2013 at 3:40 AM, hypergear said:

Was this on a high flowed unit? Its about the right amount of power for a g2 compressor.

It's a g2.5 type B also. It was originally a g2 I think but as blown so when I sent it to you you did the upgrades as well as rebuilding.

I'm happy with the power just wasn't sure why it seemed to need less boost at higher revs cause otherwise it would just ping. Comparing my graph to the one you have on your site:

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43g3/60comp110512E85/power.jpg

Mine is very similar to the 98 power curve (green curve, yellow is e85) up until my boost starts dropping off. Would have been nice to wind a bit more in.

I was just thinking could my intake be the issue? I have a stock airbox with 3inch piping to the turbo. Was hoping to keep the car looking stock but if it's causing this issue i'd be happy to make a pod filter enclosure

  On 02/08/2013 at 5:10 AM, Marcus89 said:

It's a g2.5 type B also. It was originally a g2 I think but as blown so when I sent it to you you did the upgrades as well as rebuilding.

I'm happy with the power just wasn't sure why it seemed to need less boost at higher revs cause otherwise it would just ping. Comparing my graph to the one you have on your site:

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43g3/60comp110512E85/power.jpg

Mine is very similar to the 98 power curve (green curve, yellow is e85) up until my boost starts dropping off. Would have been nice to wind a bit more in.

I was just thinking could my intake be the issue? I have a stock airbox with 3inch piping to the turbo. Was hoping to keep the car looking stock but if it's causing this issue i'd be happy to make a pod filter enclosure

Definitely not that part of your intake - generally if it's pinging with more boost, it'll be from combustion chamber temps getting high. This is either from exhaust back pressure, or perhaps a restriction in the intake AFTER the turbo (intercooler is the usual suggested culprit here). Either that, or the turbo is just being pushed beyond its efficiency.

Intake leak could explain it, too.

If its leaking from somewhere after the turbo you could see the boost drop you are and then work the turbo harder to keep up the boost, pushing the compressor out of efficiency and causing the ping.

Sounds like you are almost there, you just need to go over the setup with a fine tooth comb and iron out any small bugs.

  On 02/08/2013 at 5:31 AM, GTScotT said:

Intake leak could explain it, too.

If its leaking from somewhere after the turbo you could see the boost drop you are and then work the turbo harder to keep up the boost, pushing the compressor out of efficiency and causing the ping.

Sounds like you are almost there, you just need to go over the setup with a fine tooth comb and iron out any small bugs.

Yeah, just thought of this too. Intake leak would put it out of efficiency as it's trying to overcome a massive hole lol

  On 02/08/2013 at 5:27 AM, Trozzle said:

Definitely not that part of your intake - generally if it's pinging with more boost, it'll be from combustion chamber temps getting high. This is either from exhaust back pressure, or perhaps a restriction in the intake AFTER the turbo (intercooler is the usual suggested culprit here). Either that, or the turbo is just being pushed beyond its efficiency.

Shouldn't be back pressure I have a full 3 inch exhaust with hi-flow cat would hope that's not already a restriction. My fmic is a return flow ARC which isn't particularly big as FMIC's go but once again I'd hope it can keep up with under 300rwkw

  On 02/08/2013 at 5:31 AM, GTScotT said:

Intake leak could explain it, too.

If its leaking from somewhere after the turbo you could see the boost drop you are and then work the turbo harder to keep up the boost, pushing the compressor out of efficiency and causing the ping.

Sounds like you are almost there, you just need to go over the setup with a fine tooth comb and iron out any small bugs.

Ah that makes sense to me will definitely check this out hope I don't need to take my intake off again that was a pain for doing injectors

Did you take off the top plenum to do the injectors??

If so, did you replace the gasket and did you clean the surfaces extremely well? If not, I'd say you should check there for leaks LOL

Mick_o had one of those leaks and it was a bitch to spot. Car wouldnt exceed 280kw.. Found the leak by running water over the intake manifold while it was doing 4th gear pulls on the dyno. Fixed gasket and WHAM 335rwkw.

  On 02/08/2013 at 5:38 AM, GTScotT said:

Did you take off the top plenum to do the injectors??

If so, did you replace the gasket and did you clean the surfaces extremely well? If not, I'd say you should check there for leaks LOL

Mick_o had one of those leaks and it was a bitch to spot. Car wouldnt exceed 280kw.. Found the leak by running water over the intake manifold while it was doing 4th gear pulls on the dyno. Fixed gasket and WHAM 335rwkw.

Didn't clean it well or change gasket so yea sounds like my most likely place :(

He's right, the graph shown is for a G3, but the intake leak might still be present and causing the 5ish psi boost drop. Fixing it might get him another 10-15kw from threshold to redline, definitely worth investigating.

I'm about to pull the top of my intake manifold off to do injectors. I should be right if i just use a genuine nissan gasket and clean is with a razor blade before i put new gasket on yeah?

  On 02/08/2013 at 11:06 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

I'm about to pull the top of my intake manifold off to do injectors. I should be right if i just use a genuine nissan gasket and clean is with a razor blade before i put new gasket on yeah?

No need to take the top of the plenum off, I did my injectors and only removed the crossover pipe and throttle body. Used a 13mm ratchet ring spanner for the front fuel rail bolt and socket/ universal/ 6" extension for the rear bolt, you will need 6mm hex for the 4 throttle body cap screws.

Edited by Missileman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...