Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yup looked at that and assumed as such...

Mate seemed to think one curve was stock (lower output) vs hi-flow. I said that I would find it hard to believe and that its hardly worth the upgrade if a standard turbo can make ~230RWKW reliably

They are high flowed on different boost levels. They are actually same chra used in Std 21U/OP6 high flows. Steel wheels and very reliable.

Above is from an Auto 1JZGTE, compare to the manual version it is roughly 10% behind in power.

Hey Stao

I've been out of this thread for a while but I've got a couple of questions.

Its hard to find new CHRA's for stock rb turbos, how much would it cost to make one that fits into stock housings?

My neo turbo is on its way out but I don't want to highflow because it would then need clutch, fmic, coilpacks etc etc, I'm happy with how it performs as it is (its just a daily)

I was thinking the other day, there must be a few people who want a rebuilt stock turbo that won't need to be tuned afterwards.

Would this be something you could make for a reasonable price?

A Neo turbo is basically like any other RB25 Hitachi but usually with the larger OP6 turbine housing .

Tao could tell you but the Hitachi centre housing is of similar dimensions to the old Garrett T3/T4 water cooled bearing housing and from memory the water banjo thread size is the same .

The Garrett centre needs a Garrett T3 sized aluminium compressor back plate and the Hitachi compressor housings are almost the same sise where they clamp on . The Hitachi back plate is part of the centre housing casting .

Minor machining lets the Hitachi turbine housing fit the Garrett style centre housing .

Long short if you can find a serviceable RB25 Hitachi turbo use that with your turbine housing if it's the larger one .

A .

The 310rwkws run above was from our standard R33 21U high flow.

Well, I won't be able to rebuild stock Rb25det turbocharger, because in most of cases it the shaft does snaps off the turbine wheel when I undo the nut.

I can high flow it using a smaller profile If you like stock response and drive ability. They are pretty sweet on stock boost working with factory ecu.

Dark blue is the G1 high flow, while light blue is standard turbocharger:

Based on a R34 GTT with Rb25det Neo motor, with supporting mods and pump 98 fuel:

atr28ssRB25200kw.jpg

atr28ssRB25200kwboost.jpg

^^^

It won't make a lot of power tho, I recommend standard profile if supporting mods are planed. The cost to high flow either profiles are the same.

So you couldn't make a chra that the stock housings would bolt to without needing the housings to be machined? I'm assuming here that machining the housings to suit your chras and new wheels is a bit labour intensive

Majority of people wants them high flowed so I didn't look into making a drop in core. I mean if you can't take your car off the road I can send you a high flowed OP6 turbo.

More that I can't justify the supporting mods to make the most of one of your turbos. I will be selling in the next 6 months too so would prefer to fix up the turbo but don't want to outlay too much money as I won't recover it. And would prefer something new rather than swapping an unknown stock turbo onto it.

Over the years I've seen a few Stagea owners searching for a similar option as the car is just a daily driver for them, surely some skyline owners would also like a core that they could throw in and not worry about exploding and run on a stock tune

For 10psi or under, it works pretty fine with stock ECU. The profile above would be as close to stock configuration as possible. But at moment I don't have a drop in core to replace the factory chra.

Pipster11: Please check your email. I've forward you with a special offer on an high flow service. Cheers. :yes:

Results sent in from another customer. This is an ATR28G2 on an S15 with tomei drop in cams making 227rwkws @ 18psi on pump 98 fuel. I think it is an fair number considering the car has been mildly modded to be street legal. Customer is mentioning stronger actuator with more free flow induction, cooler kit and exhaust in near future so hopefully seeing an higher numbers from it soon.



Also noticed the dyno run was using 5th gear?



atr28g2.jpg


Cool, Working on an ball bearing version of TD06x based turbochargers at moment. Pretty challenging so far as the bearing housing is very short and cast without much materials in it. lol. I will up load photos once completed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Brent, I am wondering if you ever worked this out? I have upgraded this unit to a newer one and everything works bar the reverse camera, so i really want to know what plugs are what so I can patch the camera through. many thanks in advance Mike
    • Once you have to get up in the morning and be useful, you suddenly value sleep it turns out :p
    • Update:   smoke test all pipes no issues cleaned reservoir   fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf)   steering turn side to side and could hearing  gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system)   anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed  by engine on and same result       going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts?   would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out?   or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i
    • Yeah, the plan is to just put some black rubber vacuum line caps over them to "hide" them a bit I don't want to trim them in cause I need to put the OEM box back on at some stage
    • It's a load sense idle up valve.
×
×
  • Create New...