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I run E85 with those only. Probably is the reason they worked.

The older injectors I used was Deatchwerks 550ccs which worked fine on P98,

Next size up was the 800cc Power enterpise injectors. Very good, worked fine on P98 and E85. How ever maxed out at 430rwkws on E85

Then was the 1200cc 5xOs, that I got it up to 490rwkws. Didn't last too long how ever, and I had to pay for warranty. So lol.

^ let's see what happens once I feed them E85 :D

also hope my motor doesn't go pop too.. probably has 400 000+ on the clock from all the dodgy odo rewinds from dealer, owner 1, owner 2, owner 3, owner 4, owner 5 LOL

anyhow, just a random side note.. with the SS2 (stock manifold & gate off housing) I'm able to get 1.4bar at 3800rpm on the highway in 4th.. pretty crazy... but I run pretty low timing, only 11 degrees at that rpm vs. load.

With timing that low and overfueling due to the low atomisation, it is probably spooling early and hard. Have you had any boost control issues yet? I bet that exhaust glows red when you get it on the dyno.

You really need a reliable fuel supply at this sort of power, atomisation and idle aside an intermittent injector will kill an engine in no time. If the Bosch injectors have issues opening at high fuel pressure, how do you suspect the FiveO's will go?

Well it only over fuels on idle and light cruise under 2500rpm.. once you go past that it's controllable.

With the Five O injectors, several guys on this forum seem to have decent success with them, however all are running E85 which requires more fuel thus would produce a better spray pattern

Zero boost control issues at the moment :)

I'm going to hire a dyno probably soon, still need to finalise my mate's S15 on E85 then my shit box.

Timing isn't that low, I compared a similar SS2 map and it's only 2 degrees more than mine at max torque. I don't want to dial in too much until I put it on a dyno and listen to knock carefully. On the street I can't hear anything through the headphones but then again there's probably not enough load - oh yeah, remember it's still on 98 :)

I prefer to run 9km/sec ramps so it takes around 20 seconds to do a full run giving the motor a good beating and give more realistic numbers unlike other shops that do 8/9 second ramps.. numbers shoot through the roof LOL

My car made more power and better response on paper with higher ramp load. :P

Green is 9sec ramp, Blue is 16sec ramp.

kai21uhighflow.jpg

All the current runs are based on 12sec ramp.

Nah slow ramps tend to give more impressive looking numbers overall - has nothing to do with what is attached to the hubs, it's how long the engine and turbo are under load. Sometimes the power numbers can drop with a slow run if there is inadequate cooling/airflow because obviously everything gets too hot but spool especially makes a huge difference, a 20 second run will give a really unrealistic impression of spool! At least you know with a 20s run that if your tune doesn't get upset during it, it should be fine for a lot of thrashing :) With cars not struggling with heat on a long run you actually often get bigger numbers on slower runs, it takes up some of the inertia of the rollers/drivetrain etc by not needing to accelerate them as quickly.

^ very good explanation, I think perhaps the heatsoak causing the numbers to drop!

then again I prefer long ramp rates as you said, if it can handle a long as beating on the dyno means it "should" handling the straight at Wakefield park without anything going through the side of the block :)

Speaking of injectors:

My five O motorsport 850s are still doing fine. I drove to Newcastle and back today.. Nearly went through a full tank, still have a couple of drives left in it. Have done over 500km on that tank since fill.

Includes dyno tuning and a lot of excitement afterwards.

How's your gtx3071r go been tuned ?

Gtscott

Got a atr28ss2 in my brothers s13 s15 motor and also installing one in my 180sx now

Currently driving my bros s13 around until I get mine sorted as I'm doing the headgasket aswell

Oil was pooled around the valves worn stem seals I'll get pics tomorrow

Driving his s13 around with the atr28ss2 on gate pressure 15-16psi untuned yet bakes all 2nd gear

Power just keeps climbing after 4000rpm till limiter

Can't wait too get them both tuned and running 20 odd psi

My ones going to be on e85 but his will be on pump 98 and road tuned so won't have a dyno printout for the s13 but going to race them both at wsid after

In theory low ramp rate should give higher out put as things are colder. My R33's pulled higher numbers with better response on paper at higher ramp rate, that applies to pretty much all turbochargers that I've trailed, specially to turbos with larger turbines such as the G3 and SS2. I guess you can do few runs with different ramp sittings and find out wither if its only applying to Dynapack dynos. Trent usually uses 12 secs ramp for tuning, all results posted are based on 12 sec runs.

Hy_rpm, please keep us updated. Cheers.

Also for the 20 customers whom bought the promotional SS2s. Please post up some updates and results when ready. Thank you.

Mine is in. still running the old .82 high flow tune on 17psi actuator pressure. More responsive and pulled HEAPs harder then the high flow. Can't wait to get it tuned. Will post up result once done. :thumbsup:

How's your gtx3071r go been tuned ?

Gtscott

Hey mate, car was tuned yesterday and maxed 295 on 98ron. Results are in the 'GTX slip' thread :D

Stao I will PM you about SS2 SR20 results later today.

Updating result. This is from a S13 Silvia Red Top SR20det no VCT, using ATR28SS2 turbo in .64 rear internally gated on ebay low mount manifold. Forged buttom with Tomei 260 / 12mm cams.

Final result of 283rwkws @ 22psi and 265rwkws @ 19psi. Pump 98 fuel.

Also notice the differences result from cam gear adjustments:

283rwkw.jpg

^ very good explanation, I think perhaps the heatsoak causing the numbers to drop!

then again I prefer long ramp rates as you said, if it can handle a long as beating on the dyno means it "should" handling the straight at Wakefield park without anything going through the side of the block :)

During this evening's High performance academy live course, I did rise an question in relation to Dyno Ramp timing. Ben mentioned that the realistic ramp timing on the Dynapack dynos should be 1 sec every 500RPMs. So technically it should be in 14 secs for any thing Revs out to 7000RPMs.

He also mentioned if the actual ramp time is significantly shorter then what it should be it will under read, or if it is too long then it will read unrealistic high power figures as well as plotting unrealistically advanced boost curves.

Trent usually do an long ramp checkup run once the tune is completed, he usually don't save that data.

That is for Dynapack dynos, not sure if same scenario applies to other branded dynos.

Got the head off today

Blown gasket around cylinder 1 and leaky intake stem seal

Also look at the injectors seem to be clogged with black gum been on e85 for 3years daily

Going to get them serviced tomorrow and see if I can book a tune for next week

Hopefully get the head back on tomorrow and new turbo installed and then make up new cooler piping post-79144-14042917101454_thumb.jpgpost-79144-14042918095965_thumb.jpgpost-79144-14042918354885_thumb.jpg

During this evening's High performance academy live course, I did rise an question in relation to Dyno Ramp timing. Ben mentioned that the realistic ramp timing on the Dynapack dynos should be 1 sec every 500RPMs. So technically it should be in 14 secs for any thing Revs out to 7000RPMs.

He also mentioned if the actual ramp time is significantly shorter then what it should be it will under read, or if it is too long then it will read unrealistic high power figures as well as plotting unrealistically advanced boost curves.

Trent usually do an long ramp checkup run once the tune is completed, he usually don't save that data.

That is for Dynapack dynos, not sure if same scenario applies to other branded dynos.

The same will apply for any dyno - it doesn't matter what is stopping the engine from accelerating through the rpm, it's all about how much load the engine is for how long.... allowing the turbo to build up speed, eliminating the effect of inertia, and building up heat. Ben is mostly right about the readings often being higher with slower runs but as I said earlier, depends on how the car deals with heat.

The same will apply for any dyno - it doesn't matter what is stopping the engine from accelerating through the rpm, it's all about how much load the engine is for how long.... allowing the turbo to build up speed, eliminating the effect of inertia, and building up heat. Ben is mostly right about the readings often being higher with slower runs but as I said earlier, depends on how the car deals with heat.

I have seen similar results on roller and hubbers, on my own and on customers cars. Longer runs generally show higher torque figures, especially on autos, with boost coming in earlier. When using them as a tuning tool all these variables need to remain unchanged, otherwise the results are skewed and comparisons are hard to make.

Unfortunately my engine needs a decent cool down after each run, it must be the alloy block heat soaking or something, as cast iron blocks seem to handle temperature a lot easier.

Got the head off today

Blown gasket around cylinder 1 and leaky intake stem seal

Also look at the injectors seem to be clogged with black gum been on e85 for 3years daily

Going to get them serviced tomorrow and see if I can book a tune for next week

Hopefully get the head back on tomorrow and new turbo installed and then make up new cooler piping attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1404291707.644756.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1404291804.855809.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1404291831.761793.jpg

Do you ever pass 98RON through the tank? it's good to run 98RON every 10 tanks of E85 or so.

Do you ever pass 98RON through the tank? it's good to run 98RON every 10 tanks of E85 or so.

and how do you go about doing that on an e85 tune?!!?!

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