Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've built a a pair for Chequrered tuning's LS1 V8, that is mainly getting the advantage of running extra timing for the high comp V8. I'm awaiting on the manifold for my GTR, So I don't currently have a result for this particular turbocharger. Are you looking for some thing that suits a Rb20det?

How ever I have do have an result using the exact same compressor and turbine, except been in a VNT housing. You can reference to the ATR43SS4-Alpha model. That would give you an approximate peek power and boost to power ratio.

While I'm in here, I have twin GT-RSs on my RB2630 and the rear wheels are choking it up top, is there an option to fit a bigger turbine wheel ?

Just a quick update. I'm in the process of making a 55mm exhaust wheel for SR20det motor. That is a mm a side bigger then your GTRs turbine all around. I will doing some evaluations ready, they should be the solution for your current issue on the Rb2630 and pickup more mid / top rang torque also.

Haha oops, for some reason I thought they where 11 blade, was thinking of something else :/

How long till you start doing these and what would be a guesstimate of cost to rebuild two turbos with these wheels ?

Grinding shaft at moment, probably two weeks away. If you wish to send me the compressor wheel I can definitely build them with the new exhaust wheel.

Some updates. Those are videos sent in by John Reco, fastest lap SAU VIC track day last week. Fastest lap:

fronts.jpg
Hypergear 21U highflow turbo on standard manifold
Havoc custom pipework and exhaust
Chequred Tuning 300kw responsive tune E85
Motul Fluids 8100 15w50, Comp Gear Oil & RBF600
Tyrepower Frankston wheel alignment
4.3 Diff gears
285/30 R18 Yokohama Neova AD08R

  • Like 1

Should be able to customize turbine housings. Depending on what sort of car it is for.

comps.jpg

Further development into the ATR28SS Alpha Series based my S14 with a SR20det motor using BC S2 cams.

This is a base line for CBB SS2 Alpha version, Vnt is not current engaged. Final result of 302rwkws on 24psi P98 fuel.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

SS2 Alpha Base line compare to Standard SS2:

ss2vspower.jpg

Makes the same amount of power, but is slightly more responsive.

ss2vsboost.jpg

Base line Vs Garrett GT2871R in .64 rear:

powerv2871.jpg

boostv2871.jpg

Its currently making 190rwkws and 21psi @ 4000RPM. It drives pretty good the way it is. The goal would be matching the GT2871 curve without losing any top end.

  • 2 weeks later...

So I am helping someone make their RB25 Skyline go a bit quicker, so after much discussion the choice to go with an ATR43-SS2 was made - as soon as we nut out how to best pay across international borders we may have the first Hypergear turbo on NZ soil that I am aware of. Looking forward to checking one of these things out in person after all the discussion, and will be nice to have first hand experience of the SS2 :)

If I'm allowed I'll post results after we are done with it - will be internally gated, stock manifolds all around, BP98 on a stock internal RB25.

  • Like 1

Firstly sorry for being lazy. But what is the best direct bolt in turbo for an R33 gts on E85 shooting for around 400rwhp with as much response as poss. Or is it worth going external gate and or big dump?

Depending on how lenient the dyno is he will be getting about 340-370 hp around there, varies alot with dyno's.

Thats at 16-20 psi

I'll be tuning the internally gated one on BP98 with a Dynapack hub dyno, probably not as tough an audience as you guys are overall used to - though similar to some. Will probably go for around 18psi, but will see how knock limited it is and decide whether to go higher from there.

SS1PU Internal Gate will do it, I personally prefer to run an external gate because you can sneak in more timing

Thanks

Is the ATR43ss2 a lot bigger or ok for what I'm looking at? Don't mind going external gate, prob off exhaust housing.

This is for a track car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...