Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

have you been on the dyno with that set up Johnny?

Not yet, but most likely next month after the track day.

It's pretty fast I can tell you that and will take more timing. However, I feel it's safer to ram in more boost run lazy timing. I'm feeding it 1.6bar now

[Blackkers]

completely stock engine right? you might be better off leaving some timing out of it even if it can take it happily. Still it will be fun to see how the dyno goes. What clutch are you using? I'm up to replace mine soon

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

yep, unopened and about 300 000kms on it (clock says 140 000 but I'm skeptical about it).

I'm running a funny clutch actually, it started life off as a NPC Carbotic Push Clutch with a 1.8 ton pressure plate. After 1.5 years it started to slip so I pulled it out to get it checked. Turns out bearing carrier was incorrect causing the clutch to be disengaged every so slightly all the time.

So got the pressure plate machined and clamp reduced, the correct bearing/bearing carrier put back in and I decided to go for a Xtreme Racing Disc instead. It's lighter and also easier to drive with.

So now I've got a NPC pressure plate that has its clamp brought down to ~1.6 tons with a Xtreme Clutch Disc that was tricked up.

Car drives like a Yaris.. you could press the clutch pedal with 4 figures.

[hypergear]

GTR Dynoed today. it made 308rwkws with 16.5psi, injectors maxed. I will be upgrading to ID 1000s before the next dyno tune. In comparison to Rb25det, they seems to be making the same power except Rb26 engine is 300RPM laggier without the advantage of VCT. Car however is pretty good to drive. I will be evaluating the ATR43 Alpha series shortly which should have similar effects of having VCT.

Dyno reading shown comparison between SL20.5 V factory N1 turbochargers on same boost level.

Old fashion engineering for a bit of laugh: Making an window seal plug out of solid piece PVC plastic:

[hy_rpm]

It's lost a fair chunk of power till 4000rpm after that's it takes over

Are you going to try out twin high flow configuration ?

[hypergear]

Not really. The SL20.5 is a common turbocharger used for Rb25's external gated applications. So I would like to see the differences in between the two engines. The built purpose is for the further developments on the SS Alpha turbos, which I'm concentrating on making a responsive big single.

[hypergear]

While I'm in here, I have twin GT-RSs on my RB2630 and the rear wheels are choking it up top, is there an option to fit a bigger turbine wheel ?

Just a quick update. I'm in the process of making a 55mm exhaust wheel for SR20det motor. That is a mm a side bigger then your GTRs turbine all around. I will doing some evaluations ready, they should be the solution for your current issue on the Rb2630 and pickup more mid / top rang torque also.

The new 55mm version of our ATR28G/SS 1x exhaust wheel is evaluated today. I have fitted with with a G2 71mm compressor for this evaluation.

We've started with 16psi and boosted it till no more power can be made:

272rwkws is the peek and good enough to make 200rwkws @ 4000 RPM on a SR. Pump 98 fuel is used.

Compare to standard G2 with 53mm turbine:

Thin lines are from standard G2. Note the boost taper behavior is minimized pre 20psi. New turbine wheel is 200RPM laggier, but managed to hold power longer after 6500. We where also been able to run more boost that made more power. My exhaust manifold did not turn red during any of the runs above either, which did running standard 53mm turbine. It result was similar to as if the G2 was externally gated.

We can also notice that the compressor wheel is reaching its maximum efficiency as more boost is added, that is indicating that an larger compressor wheel can be used working with this turbine. I will be using our SS15 compressor for my next evaluation.

There is about 14kws differences up top at identical boost levels. I have made a marking on graph below:

So by using two of those turbine wheels on the RB2630DETT mentioned, it will significantly drop your back pressure in upper revs, and hold power band for longer.

[XKLABA]

Thank you that that is very interesting, I am pulling motor out over Christmas and amongst other things want to upgrade turbos so I will have figure out extacly what I'm going to do, I also want to go a bit smaller with comp wheel in Billet, 67-68mm I think should give same flow but better response

Your GTR, have you played with cam timing yet ? if not try 6deg adv on intake and 9deg ret on exhaust

[Blackkers]

Thank you that that is very interesting, I am pulling motor out over Christmas and amongst other things want to upgrade turbos so I will have figure out extacly what I'm going to do, I also want to go a bit smaller with comp wheel in Billet, 67-68mm I think should give same flow but better response

Your GTR, have you played with cam timing yet ? if not try 6deg adv on intake and 9deg ret on exhaust

9 degrees is a long way to shift a cam. Are you sure? I'm looking into this at the moment because I'm in the process of putting my engine together still.

with factory cams most people say around -2-4 degrees on the exhaust and +4-6 on the intake.

I just want a good baseline to start with really. What is the consensus these days?

in case it matters, the turbos are HKS GTSSx2 and the engine will be around the 9.3:1 CR but I don't know if that will make much difference to optimal cam timing.

edit: sorry Stao for hijacking your thread

Edited September 25, 2014 by Blackkers

[Piggaz]

^^^ if you ever got a ride in the car, you'd understand.

[XKLABA]

^^^ if you ever got a ride in the car, you'd understand.

This man he knows

My 32 is set purely for response and my exhaust cam is a fair bit more then that, that setting is what I would consider a good allround setting for response and top end without the over the top anger my 32 has

[Lithium]

So the guy you are recommending those cam settings has exactly the same bottom end, cams and initial degreeing came out identical?

[XKLABA]

The settings are for stock cams, 32 and 33 are same 34 is different timing, anyone into moding cars should know you always find corrected 0deg and start from there

As for bottom end I fail to see how it makes a difference as every revolution is still 360 unless that changed while I wasn't looking

[Lithium]

As for bottom end I fail to see how it makes a difference as every revolution is still 360 unless that changed while I wasn't looking

Not sure if trolling Either way, pretty sure we had a yarn on this very topic almost a year ago you were talking camshaft design, I remember wondering if you were really listening to my side of the conversation or not. Perhaps I have my answer to that?

Production line style tuning can work it lots of cases, especially if applied to identical setups but I tend to be a bit more fussy/cautious about it and prefer to not tell people or apply rules blindly to every setup everywhere without some forethought or testing to ensure things are definitely going to turn out the way intended - but that is just me. The car would at the very least need to be retuned to suit a drastic change like this, imho.

[Piggaz]

It was a suggestion, Dan.

Really, who would change cam timing and not have the car on the dyno?

[Ben C34]

It was a suggestion, Dan.

Really, who would change cam timing and not have the car on the dyno?

Heaps of people. Have you seen the crazy shit some people do on here?

[zebra]

But the internet told me my bov return angle was wrong so I changed the tps idle voltage

[Piggaz]

Heaps of people. Have you seen the crazy shit some people do on here?

Lol. Very true.

[Lithium]

It was a suggestion, Dan.

Really, who would change cam timing and not have the car on the dyno?

There is an industry relying on people doing that kind of thing to earn their money

[Badgaz]

Lol crack up, sounds like the IT industry

Edited September 26, 2014 by Badgaz