Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hopefully this time the highflow lives up to it's expectations as I don't really want to pay more money to be disapointed again. Stao I will send you an email so this can be arranged in the new year :)

I can guarantee you won't be disappointed. Can't be bothered scrolling back to find out, but please make sure you have a tuneable ECU also.

  • Like 1

For 260rwkws, sell your OP6 and buy and send in a blown R33 turbo. Once that is high flowed, it will be making around 260rwkws with factory responds.

Got the GTR pulling 404akws today using a high flowed blown kando T67 (from Peter). And did back to back test with few different coolers, will upload results shortly.

  • Like 1

Wouldn't the r34 turbo be better for highflowing or does the lager rear create a lot of lag? My car has the below mods so the only piece to the puzzle missing is the turbo.

Apexi Pod
Nistune
Npc Heavy Duty Organic Clutch
Apexi AVCR boost controller
Full 3.5inch zorst
Nismo Fuel Pump
Z32 AFM
Siemens 550cc injectors
Yellow Jacket Coil Packs
HDI Front Mount

So as you can see my car is capable of making some decent power just need the right turbo to do so.

Edited by DoseVader

Wouldn't the r34 turbo be better for highflowing or does the lager rear create a lot of lag? My car has the below mods so the only piece to the puzzle missing is the turbo.

it is wonderful that you came to this realisation yourself.

incidentally plenty of info from a search.

you are in fact all set for a sweet setup after highflowing your R34 'OP6' turbo

enjoy

it is wonderful that you came to this realisation yourself.

incidentally plenty of info from a search.

you are in fact all set for a sweet setup after highflowing your R34 'OP6' turbo

enjoy

Can't be any more laggy then my current highflow setup, full boost at 5,000rpm thats living barry

Then you'd find the r34 hypergear highflow a blessing

I still need to sort my Pfc boost control setting out properly to get the boost right in the upper mid range, but it pulls nicely from 3500 rpm onwards, got 276 rwkw, power delivery is very linear and easy to drive

Good part about the highflow is it essentially bolts on, so installation is easier if you're doing it yourself.

Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the ss1PU is designed to be able to pull the same max power as the OP6 highflow with even better response?

Yes SS1PU is made to do the same sort of power as the OP6 high flow but with stock alike response, thats a very good option as well.

As mentioned earlier I've upgraded the intercooler on the R33 GTR from 600x300x68mm to 600x300x100mm. Using the same ATR43SS25 Alpha turbocharger, it managed to hold more boost on less boost controller duty, 10 degrees less in air temp, picked up more mid to top range, and the penalty in response is 100RPM.

By now, I have a good platform for turbocharger related evaluation and testing.

atr43ss25alpha337rwkw.jpg

atr43ss25alphaboost.jpg

Also for few customers reports boost tappering issues on their RBs. Check your pressure drop across your intercooler. Some of you might be surprised of how much boost it actually restricts.

Below is a dyno log on a ATR45 using a return flow cooler, with customer defending for his 20 Cents junk.

Green is before cooler, and Red/pink is after cooler.

coolerrestriction.jpg

I found this issue with people using Blitz front mount and return flows also. If this is a scenario on your setup, get a tube n fin, 600x300x100mm cooler, we can supply that for under $200, and that has been tested and works.

+1, get the high flow - meets all your requirements and lighter on the pocket. I got the SS2 because I wanted a dyno queen LOL

Tell the truth Johnny you just wanted GAAAAAAAATTTEEEE! :D

Intercooler restriction. that car made identical amount of power using OP6 high flow, SS2 and now a G4 (3582 equivalent). They all can only be boosted to 16psi with actuator disconnected. Similar behavior to when I was using stock GTR33 cooler, this one is alot worse.

This is result from the Peter's dead T67 earlier, It is now rebuilt and high flowed running our ATR43G4 CHRA assembly, pulled 404awkws E85, fuel pump leaned out. Its now tested and ready for pickup. This assembly is good enough to pull around 430awkws with a new pump. I don't think I will be chasing for more power at this stage, But will be working to get better response.

compcoverin.jpg

turbine.jpg

compressor.jpg

turborear.jpg

atr43g4power.jpg

atr4g4boost.jpg

Video added:

Told ya so Mark lol ;)

Hehe, that you did Mick. Been plenty of decent results with Blitz coolers before though (at around 250-260rwkW Mark), which was why I was wondering if the pressure drop is more noticeable at higher boost.

Anyways, thanks for posting those results Stao.

ATR43SS2.5 Alpha final run on E85, GTR-R33. made 367awkws on 20psi.

atr43ss25alpha367rwkwe85.jpg

I've included dyno videos of the same turbocharger running both P98 and E85 fuel:

Tell the truth Johnny you just wanted GAAAAAAAATTTEEEE! :D

Fine, I'm not going to lie. I wanted gate LOL

Fek all those Honda homo vtecs, I has gate... Don't be mad :D

Hehe, that you did Mick. Been plenty of decent results with Blitz coolers before though (at around 250-260rwkW Mark), which was why I was wondering if the pressure drop is more noticeable at higher boost.

Anyways, thanks for posting those results Stao.

Exactly what I thought when I bought my blitz return flow, time for a new cooler it seems..

What cooler was it Tao?

Edited by owen1r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
    • The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.
×
×
  • Create New...