Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A bit OT but how are you graphing all your logs like that johnny? Neat and easy to digest :)

it's just excel :)

I create pivot tables with filters then create graphs from it

Alrighty, part where everyone gets excited..

Details:

  • Hypergear SS2
  • 45mm Turbosmart External Gate off Housing (thanks scotty_mn35)
  • E85
  • 1.6bar boost, made more power on 1.5bar
  • IAT shot up to 50 degrees, subsequently lost 3 degrees of timing (I take 1 degree off every 5 degrees above 35)
  • Stock motor
  • Stock manifold, stock plenum

Timing Map:

post-22311-0-33751700-1419289160_thumb.png

Dyno Reading at Power Tune:

post-22311-0-75839700-1419289162_thumb.png

Virtual Dyno Reading (Using Log File on the same run at Power Tune):

post-22311-0-72358800-1419289159_thumb.png

  • Like 2

Alrighty, part where everyone gets excited..

awesome result. just out of curiosity did you try to add timing and lower boost in the top end while on the dyno to try pull IAT's down a bit? if so what happened?

Edited by Blackkers

awesome result. just out of curiosity did you try to add timing and lower boost in the top end while on the dyno to try pull IAT's down a bit? if so what happened?

Car was just at a dyno day at Powertune so I wasn't controlling the runs..

I did tell Chea to run the car with different boost settings, but at 1.6bar it bled down to 1.5bar. Ended up doing 1x run at 1.5 bar and 2x runs at 1.6bar...

I'll upgrade the FMIC and then hire out a dyno and pump more timing through the motor. Adam at Powertune did say my manifold was glowing red by the 2nd run. Signs of high EGTs and/or flow restrictions.. probably won't get round to doing any of what I said till February.. barely have time to do anything with the car these days lol

Johnny,

Your approach is probably wrong. 50°C IAT is nothing. Certainly not enough to be pulling lots of timing out. You really need to listen for knock properly and decide where/when it becomes apparent and make the tune safely away from there in the usual manner that people have always done. When you're pulling timing at those relatively mild IATs, you're causing high(er) EGT.

You're using E85 which will smother the effect of hot air a lot better than 98 will. Gives you so much extra protection that you're probably massively overdoing the engine protection routine by backing off the timing the way you are. If you wanted to be fussy about it you'd be better off pulling boost off it as the IAT goes up.

Problem is with E85 you can't really hear knock.... I do monitor for knock but regardless of timing or boost levels put through the motor the knock readings are pretty similar (mind you it's just a basic knock monitor I'm using with the Adaptronic).

I was always under the impression IATs past 50 degrees Celsius is bad, thus I pull back 3 degrees at that point.

Most of the runs have been with Virtual Dyno used to estimate torque/power gain. I did some logging when I was at Wakefield too with the laptop under the front seat strapped down.

I can't pull boost as IAT increase as the ECU doesn't have that feature and also I use a dedicated EBC which allows for quick changes of settings.

In saying that the tune isn't complete, I haven't hired a dyno to finalise and push the tune further as I was still ironing out some bugs.. hopefully will do that after the new year once the shop I hire the dyno opens back up for business again.

Ok, so I did some quick reading of a few engineering papers and this came up - although it's for a direct injected motor..

Looks like I may be a little too cautious with the whole IAT vs. Timing.

post-22311-0-54748500-1419317197_thumb.png

Just a note 3 day turnaround Maybe??? ,Then 7days to post back WTF??? ,if you go this route make sure you ask for an express post return , don't assume they will post it express unless you ask !! And yes I did call and ask about the turna round time ,etc etc , just sayin so others don't get caught with with a car siting in a work shop

Express option is available to chice from on our site, default is parcel post with insurance. How ever during xmas break delivery time can be unpredictable.

It wasnt Christmas it was last week of November ,I asked if I could check out on line and they said do it COD ,I am just giving a heads up so others don't get caught out .

I have had similar issues with COD it can take Aust post ages. One of my deliveries took a week, sent from the other side of Melbourne. lol.

Not Hypergear's fault. Pay for a courier if you want express delivery.

Yeah COD is often awkward like that. I had waited a while before checking with the post office that said they'd had it for a week... I was never notified. Not hypergear's fault though and the turbo was worth the wait!

  • 2 weeks later...

Hope every one had a lovely new year. :turned:

I've spent a lot of time but haven't had alot of luck with the GTR yet, I've fitted over 20 different combination of turbochargers to it and yet can not get it to reach 20psi any quicker then 4300RPM. Due to the lack of VCT, the head doesn't like boost down low either, result in a violent surge working with smaller turbochargers, Then the only way out is by creating more lag.

How ever I'm narrowing down to a few sets of wheel and housing combinations for the most responsive 400awkws as possible. Will be doing further evaluations with it using adjustable cam gears down the track.

Result sent in by another member that is currently using our 21U high flow running E85 fuel making a super responsive 311rwkws on 20psi internally gated. That is on a R33 Rb25det stock engine.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse.    if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 
    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
×
×
  • Create New...