Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes that Mac solenoid went funny on the start and we could not run any thing less then 23psi. it was later replaced. High boost was tuned first then low boost. I think this is what blew one of my Rb25det engines few years ago.

Ok there's possibly a few things going on there that make direct comparison difficult. What difference/similarity in spec between those 3 for exhaust manifolding, exhaust system, inlet pipe/filter, and intercooler/piping?

The two GTRs are very similar, R32 had a 6boost high mount, same size cooler that was supplied and installed by the same fabricator. the GTST had hybrid NZ manifold and the usual cross over pipe front mount cooler kit.

All cars has factory cam gears, while the GTST has VCT. All tuned on the same dyno using the same ramp parameters.

Wasn't hard to guess. They are junk and all block with E85. I don't know why people bother

I bet I have put more tanks of ethanol through my set than anyone, without any issues...

Blaming your injectors for a poorly filtered fuel system is a little silly isn't it?

Been speaking to Stao but I'll ask anyway:

Which turbo would be recommended for ~100rwkw at 3,000rpm / full boost by 3,000rpm and around 240rwkw?

If possible a bolt-on solution which retains the stock 21U housings.

I bet I have put more tanks of ethanol through my set than anyone, without any issues...

Blaming your injectors for a poorly filtered fuel system is a little silly isn't it?

How long have you left e85 sitting in the rail for as we had an evo at my shop never had an issue ran on e85 for a few years now, left to sit for around 6 months and when starting idle was shit house and wouldn't rev right, afrs f**ked. All injectors were gunked up, dropped in a new set of the same ones (Id's) and back to perfect. Only issues I've seen if when the cars been left sitting for long periods of time. Running lots of fuel threw em and not having it sit generally gives no issues

There are few persons that I speak to that had issues with gunk blocking injectors, they all appears to have the type of injector that has the four small spray holes on the nozzle. The ID Bosh single ping spray type of injectors seems to be less problematic.

All EV14's?

Not all, the Bosch branded ones that are around $100 from Sonic performance seem to have issues.

I bet I have put more tanks of ethanol through my set than anyone, without any issues...

Blaming your injectors for a poorly filtered fuel system is a little silly isn't it?

Ummmm no. I have never had a set, I've always used Deatchwerks without issue but going to events and watching my friends competing have 3 sets of injectors for when they block is fairly amusing.

I've seen around half a dozen different cars all with issues of these injectors blocking, all with different and more than adequate filtering systems. One car evern changed filter set ups 3 or 4 times and still had issues, funnily enough swaped to a different type of injector and never an issue since.

If you have these injectors and they work that's great for you but don't you run Xspurt? I'm yet to see a car with these injectors on E85 that don't have issues

Edited by SimonR32

Time for a dedicated thread on these issues I reckon?

I'm thinking Scott Black's on the money here. Sounds broadly similar to what happens with methanol - the hardware doesn't cope well if the fuel is left to sit in tanks and lines. Maybe not in all instances with E85, but reports are common enough and seem to involve those cars being left to sit between events and maybe running a few times per year.

I'd like to hear what happens for those guys who drain their tank and purge the system with petrol.

add some Lucas Ethanol stabiliser into your tank, I do that and last time I removed my injectors they were clean as the day I got them..

Also note, I do like 3000km per year on my car - it doesn't get driven much.

My car did sit around for about 3 months when i did the transplant to another shell with a different tank that hadnt had e85 in it before.

So i think it was a combination

1. Car sitting around for longer than normal

2. New tank hadn't run e85 before and was sitting around even longer than 3 months.

3. I dont run filters on my EV14s

Been speaking to Stao but I'll ask anyway:

Which turbo would be recommended for ~100rwkw at 3,000rpm / full boost by 3,000rpm and around 240rwkw?

If possible a bolt-on solution which retains the stock 21U housings.

I have the SS2 and while it would be pretty close to 100rwkw at 3k (it's between 95 and 100) full boost isn't made until around 3700-3800. I'd probably go the highflow for those targets. The OP6 highflow has been over 300rwkw a few times with E85 so you do have a bit of head room if you wanna turn it up

I have the SS2 and while it would be pretty close to 100rwkw at 3k (it's between 95 and 100) full boost isn't made until around 3700-3800. I'd probably go the highflow for those targets. The OP6 highflow has been over 300rwkw a few times with E85 so you do have a bit of head room if you wanna turn it up

Had the OP6 highflow on pulp, it was good up top but not as responsive as I wanted. I think I'm gonna get an SS1 built into the factory housings. Should have similar response to an SS1PU according to Stao. Full boost by ~3500rpm and ~90-100rwkw at 3,000rpm.

250rwkw is more than enough for me on the street. Response is what I'm ultimately after.

Edited by colourclassic
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...