Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This turbo is current produced.

I've trailed the ATR45 SAT on a RB25det Neo today. With 0.1L of a difference in capacity those two engines are very different. The Rb26 SAT version didn't work on Rb25det, which I've had to make a new rear for. the result was 421rwkws out of a 120,000KM stock motor. Will upload result tomorrow.

This turbo is current produced.

I've trailed the ATR45 SAT on a RB25det Neo today. With 0.1L of a difference in capacity those two engines are very different. The Rb26 SAT version didn't work on Rb25det, which I've had to make a new rear for. the result was 421rwkws out of a 120,000KM stock motor. Will upload result tomorrow.

How didn't it work? Interested in your findings

Based on the same configuration It was super responsive but didn't make expected power. Same CHRA with a SS2 turbine and it worked. Response wise It made 20psi by 4200RPM and 25psi at 4400RPM. Because the owner was looking to rebuild this engine so he didn't care if it blows and decided to max out that turbo. The final run was 421rwkws peek 28psi, He been thrashing the car on daily base, its a 120,000K unopened motor and I'm surprised of how well built stock Rb25det Neos are. Perhaps that is why Nissan never released GT-Four with a Rb25det Neo motor in it.

Its not the most responsive result I've had but good enough for a daily and not too bad for the power level its reached.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

It was making 20psi around 3800RPM, which is close to 500RPM more responsive then the GTR. but stopped making power at 370rwkws. I don't have that sheet but I can see if I can get one from the tuner.

  • Like 1

Hey guys and gals, just a few questions.

This is a quick run down on what I already have

740cc nismo injectors

Z32 afm

Walbro fuel pump

3 inch exhaust

Apexi power fc

Npc clutch

Manley rods

Pod filter

High flowed rb25 turbo

All making 215kwatw

My question is, I'm buying a hyper gear turbo very soon and I just wanted to know how much power roughly would the hyper gear turbo achieve? I can only run on 98 as we don't have it on pump in my area!

Thanks in advance for your reply

Yes, I'm mainly looking into making power and response based on unopended engines.

For internally gated options.

A high flowed R33 turbocharger that is done by us, you will be looking roughly into the 260rwkws mark. Or 270rwkws for a R34 turbocharger.

G3 and SS2 would be making around the 280rwkws mark with supporting mods.

Hey guys and gals, just a few questions.

This is a quick run down on what I already have

740cc nismo injectors

Z32 afm

Walbro fuel pump

3 inch exhaust

Apexi power fc

Npc clutch

Manley rods

Pod filter

High flowed rb25 turbo

All making 215kwatw

My question is, I'm buying a hyper gear turbo very soon and I just wanted to know how much power roughly would the hyper gear turbo achieve? I can only run on 98 as we don't have it on pump in my area!

Thanks in advance for your reply

Hi Ryanh2512,

You have pretty much the same mods as me, I just got my Hypergear Highflow from Stao installed and tuned yesterday. My car made 250rkwk on 18psi with the R33 21U Highflow very responsive and nice on the street. You may want to look into getting a 3inch metal intake pipe made up as well.

Also thanks Stao for the turbo :)

Yeah definitely look into a metal 3" intake pipe.. mine was sucking closed after just 220kw so its a no brainer if your wanting more then that. i would recommend 21u if you want good response. But if you want a kick in the face at 3.8-4k rpm definitely go ss2 without a doubt

  • Like 3

Stao - was that last Dyno graph you posted supposed to be blank?

Also, how do your latest ATR45 results compare to the Neo Stagea result a couple of pages back? Are they similar, but different dynos? It was over 400kw..

Sorry - last question! Can you provide an Adaptronic e1280s along with your turbos, rather than the Select model? They have full sequential ign and injection, more flexible, and still have the rb25 style ecu plug.

The following is about the boost drop with few customers cars. The ability of an internally gated system holding boost through the rev range is crucial in building HP and torque in mid and upper rev range. Making sure our turbochargers are able to hold boost, our internally gated systems has been engineered to performing a very slight creep. Most of guys that uses high flows or a simple boltons tried to obtain legal appearance while keeping the amount of fabrication work to minimum, that in most of cases have to deal with restrictions. I've been building turbos for RB owners for a number of years and there is a pretty clear pattern emerging, The most people whom experience boost dropping issues are fitted with some sort of a return flow cooler. I was curious and undecided wither if it is an intercooler issue, there for purchased a car with a genuine Blitz return flow cooler fitted.

Today's run, I'm using a high flowed OP6 turbocharger with a high pressure actuator. Maps sensors were tapped from both sides of the intercooler and results was some how expected. Running high pressure actautor with no boost ebc connected, sensors is reading a 3.7psi drop across the core, and which I'm sure if EBC is adapted, the percentage of drop will be much greater.

boost.jpg

Didn't make expected power:

power.jpg

So Return flow coolers should not be used when expecting beyond 250rwkws. And in my personal opinion it should not be used at all. 600x300x100mm cooler will be installed next week to complete power run above.

  • Like 1

Stao, do you think it's only the core that's the problem or does the return flow piping also play a part in the pressure drop? Do you think replacing the core in a return flow system would alleviate the problem?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...