Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did a turbo change just making sure that I'm not going to spend money on a new cooler kit for nothing, Now with a ATR43SS-2 on board making no differences to boost drop. New intercooler is getting fitted on the 2nd of April, will update results then.

For now, 276rwkws @15psi with cooler restrictions:

atr43ss2boostdrop.png

atr43ss2276rwkw.png

Also ATR28SS-2 powered S13 SR20det with 264/12mm cams. Final result of 299rwkws @ 22psi, P98 fuel:

atr28299rwkw.jpg

atr28299rwkwboost.jpg

One more piece of Red top SR20det data. This is using 264 inlet and 272 exhaust. Running our SL20.5 Turbo in 8cm turbine. Car made 477rwhp / 356rwkws on 23psi E85 fuel. Graph running against a Apexi rx6 turbo that was previously installed. Dyna dynamics roller dyno, shoot out mode.

power.jpg

twoturbos.JPG

  • Like 1

Based on the cooler behavior from earlier test runs. I've made another special application turbo: ATR45-SRFC

This one is made for the minimum amount of boost drop, making some some where towards the 300rwkws mark on pump fuel. It is a bolton turbo just like the ATR43SS/G series. So this will be your recommended turbo if you you've got this type of intercooler installed chasing similar power levels.

Final result of 292rwkws @ 19psi after cooler. Internally gated, P98 fuel.

power.JPG

boostlabeled.jpg

Another prototype, this one is made for internally gated XR6 BA and FGs. Unlike the GTX3582, this turbocharger is also fitted with a much larger exhaust wheel working with a big 40mm internal gate. The approximated HP out put on this turbocharger is around the 430rwkws internally gated on pump 98 fuel. Releasing few evaluation units at special prices, PM if any one is interested to trail.

atr45ssfront.jpg

atr45ssrear.JPG

I know very little about the pyhsical size specs of turbos but is it possible to fit a GT30 turbine to a GT28 core, im wondering if that would be possible and crop it down to 58x52ish then stick a GTX67 comp wheel on it to make your own 5867 that will take machined -5 GTR housings for that factory fit ?

Or can the -5 housings bolt onto a GTX3067R agian with the cropped turbine ?

:(

Thanks, Back to the drawing board

Oh you changed it, so would this be worth doing for a responsive 500kw at all 4

I have 458kw now with HKS GT-RSs

Backpressure is killing me at 28psi at the moment and im thinking it is cause of the size difference of the wheels as well as the size of the 53mm T28 turbine wheel being a bit to small

:(

Thanks, Back to the drawing board

Oh you changed it, so would this be worth doing for a responsive 500kw at all 4

I have 458kw now with HKS GT-RSs

Backpressure is killing me at 28psi at the moment and im thinking it is cause of the size difference of the wheels as well as the size of the 53mm T28 turbine wheel being a bit to small

You can use your existing compressor wheel and run with our ATR28SS-2 turbine wheels in your current turbine housings. That will drop back pressure, cooler EGT, and makes more torque.

:(

Thanks, Back to the drawing board

Oh you changed it, so would this be worth doing for a responsive 500kw at all 4

I have 458kw now with HKS GT-RSs

Backpressure is killing me at 28psi at the moment and im thinking it is cause of the size difference of the wheels as well as the size of the 53mm T28 turbine wheel being a bit to small

Yep sounds like you need 1 good turbo instead Micky! :P

Based on the cooler behavior from earlier test runs. I've made another special application turbo: ATR45-SRFC

This one is made for the minimum amount of boost drop, making some some where towards the 300rwkws mark on pump fuel. It is a bolton turbo just like the ATR43SS/G series. So this will be your recommended turbo if you you've got this type of intercooler installed chasing similar power levels.

Final result of 292rwkws @ 19psi after cooler. Internally gated, P98 fuel.

When making pressure measurements you have to take the air temperature into consideration.

The air before the FMIC is much warmer and hence less dense which attributes to higher volume / pressure.

After the FMIC it's the inverse of the of what I just wrote.

When making pressure measurements you have to take the air temperature into consideration.

The air before the FMIC is much warmer and hence less dense which attributes to higher volume / pressure.

After the FMIC it's the inverse of the of what I just wrote.

I tried explaining that, unfortunately the cooler was blamed for the IAT too which is pretty funny. :P

I think he realised it was the compressor that was causing the heat, hence the new turbo that was trialled.

You can use your existing compressor wheel and run with our ATR28SS-2 turbine wheels in your current turbine housings. That will drop back pressure, cooler EGT, and makes more torque.

Any possiblity of specs for that wheel and i would like to go smaller on comp wheel to help with response, the 71mm i think is a bit big for what my goal is, do you have anything around the 65mm mark that will cover 500kw in twin form

Also i have a pair of -7s here im not using, i believe the exhaust housing is the same as the RSs just need to get .60 comp covers

Any possiblity of specs for that wheel and i would like to go smaller on comp wheel to help with response, the 71mm i think is a bit big for what my goal is, do you have anything around the 65mm mark that will cover 500kw in twin form

Also i have a pair of -7s here im not using, i believe the exhaust housing is the same as the RSs just need to get .60 comp covers

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

According to this the AR's are different between -7 and RS's.

I have 64mm comp billet wheels, Those are from ATR28SS15. It peeked 281rwkws, and averaging about 275rwkws pump 98 fuel, on my SR. On dyno it is slightly more responsive then a 2871 while made more power.

Orange is ATR28SS15 in .64 rear, Green is GT2871 in .64 rear. Both are S14s with BC Step 2 cams. on pump 98 fuel.

vsgt2871power.JPG

Slight boost control issue on that particular day:

vsgt2871boost.JPG

With boost controller fixed:

power.jpgboost.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are fine with China turbos, Maxpeedingrods makes a bolt on turbo. Ive had mine for two summers now and it seems to be holding up ok. 
    • Howdy all Im in a little predicament and wondering what everyone’s thoughts are? I’ve had my long block rebuilt and am in the market for a turbo due to my old one having metal shavings from crank bearings (cause of rebuild) go throughout the turbos oil lines and there wheel has a little play. I’m not really aiming for any power, just trying to keep it as oem as possible, but I can’t find a turbo that’s built for the stock ecu or find something that would be a standard replacement. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions 
    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
×
×
  • Create New...