Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did a turbo change just making sure that I'm not going to spend money on a new cooler kit for nothing, Now with a ATR43SS-2 on board making no differences to boost drop. New intercooler is getting fitted on the 2nd of April, will update results then.

For now, 276rwkws @15psi with cooler restrictions:

atr43ss2boostdrop.png

atr43ss2276rwkw.png

Also ATR28SS-2 powered S13 SR20det with 264/12mm cams. Final result of 299rwkws @ 22psi, P98 fuel:

atr28299rwkw.jpg

atr28299rwkwboost.jpg

One more piece of Red top SR20det data. This is using 264 inlet and 272 exhaust. Running our SL20.5 Turbo in 8cm turbine. Car made 477rwhp / 356rwkws on 23psi E85 fuel. Graph running against a Apexi rx6 turbo that was previously installed. Dyna dynamics roller dyno, shoot out mode.

power.jpg

twoturbos.JPG

  • Like 1

Based on the cooler behavior from earlier test runs. I've made another special application turbo: ATR45-SRFC

This one is made for the minimum amount of boost drop, making some some where towards the 300rwkws mark on pump fuel. It is a bolton turbo just like the ATR43SS/G series. So this will be your recommended turbo if you you've got this type of intercooler installed chasing similar power levels.

Final result of 292rwkws @ 19psi after cooler. Internally gated, P98 fuel.

power.JPG

boostlabeled.jpg

Another prototype, this one is made for internally gated XR6 BA and FGs. Unlike the GTX3582, this turbocharger is also fitted with a much larger exhaust wheel working with a big 40mm internal gate. The approximated HP out put on this turbocharger is around the 430rwkws internally gated on pump 98 fuel. Releasing few evaluation units at special prices, PM if any one is interested to trail.

atr45ssfront.jpg

atr45ssrear.JPG

I know very little about the pyhsical size specs of turbos but is it possible to fit a GT30 turbine to a GT28 core, im wondering if that would be possible and crop it down to 58x52ish then stick a GTX67 comp wheel on it to make your own 5867 that will take machined -5 GTR housings for that factory fit ?

Or can the -5 housings bolt onto a GTX3067R agian with the cropped turbine ?

:(

Thanks, Back to the drawing board

Oh you changed it, so would this be worth doing for a responsive 500kw at all 4

I have 458kw now with HKS GT-RSs

Backpressure is killing me at 28psi at the moment and im thinking it is cause of the size difference of the wheels as well as the size of the 53mm T28 turbine wheel being a bit to small

:(

Thanks, Back to the drawing board

Oh you changed it, so would this be worth doing for a responsive 500kw at all 4

I have 458kw now with HKS GT-RSs

Backpressure is killing me at 28psi at the moment and im thinking it is cause of the size difference of the wheels as well as the size of the 53mm T28 turbine wheel being a bit to small

You can use your existing compressor wheel and run with our ATR28SS-2 turbine wheels in your current turbine housings. That will drop back pressure, cooler EGT, and makes more torque.

:(

Thanks, Back to the drawing board

Oh you changed it, so would this be worth doing for a responsive 500kw at all 4

I have 458kw now with HKS GT-RSs

Backpressure is killing me at 28psi at the moment and im thinking it is cause of the size difference of the wheels as well as the size of the 53mm T28 turbine wheel being a bit to small

Yep sounds like you need 1 good turbo instead Micky! :P

Based on the cooler behavior from earlier test runs. I've made another special application turbo: ATR45-SRFC

This one is made for the minimum amount of boost drop, making some some where towards the 300rwkws mark on pump fuel. It is a bolton turbo just like the ATR43SS/G series. So this will be your recommended turbo if you you've got this type of intercooler installed chasing similar power levels.

Final result of 292rwkws @ 19psi after cooler. Internally gated, P98 fuel.

When making pressure measurements you have to take the air temperature into consideration.

The air before the FMIC is much warmer and hence less dense which attributes to higher volume / pressure.

After the FMIC it's the inverse of the of what I just wrote.

When making pressure measurements you have to take the air temperature into consideration.

The air before the FMIC is much warmer and hence less dense which attributes to higher volume / pressure.

After the FMIC it's the inverse of the of what I just wrote.

I tried explaining that, unfortunately the cooler was blamed for the IAT too which is pretty funny. :P

I think he realised it was the compressor that was causing the heat, hence the new turbo that was trialled.

You can use your existing compressor wheel and run with our ATR28SS-2 turbine wheels in your current turbine housings. That will drop back pressure, cooler EGT, and makes more torque.

Any possiblity of specs for that wheel and i would like to go smaller on comp wheel to help with response, the 71mm i think is a bit big for what my goal is, do you have anything around the 65mm mark that will cover 500kw in twin form

Also i have a pair of -7s here im not using, i believe the exhaust housing is the same as the RSs just need to get .60 comp covers

Any possiblity of specs for that wheel and i would like to go smaller on comp wheel to help with response, the 71mm i think is a bit big for what my goal is, do you have anything around the 65mm mark that will cover 500kw in twin form

Also i have a pair of -7s here im not using, i believe the exhaust housing is the same as the RSs just need to get .60 comp covers

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

According to this the AR's are different between -7 and RS's.

I have 64mm comp billet wheels, Those are from ATR28SS15. It peeked 281rwkws, and averaging about 275rwkws pump 98 fuel, on my SR. On dyno it is slightly more responsive then a 2871 while made more power.

Orange is ATR28SS15 in .64 rear, Green is GT2871 in .64 rear. Both are S14s with BC Step 2 cams. on pump 98 fuel.

vsgt2871power.JPG

Slight boost control issue on that particular day:

vsgt2871boost.JPG

With boost controller fixed:

power.jpgboost.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It only looks tidy, as most of the stuff that was on the whole back wall, is now in the trailer to go to the tip, or has been shoved in my 2.2x2.4m "Spare parts room", and now I can't get to anything in there Ha ha ha I could definitely do with a bit more space, but I'd just end up with your problems I'm going to enclose the car port beside the garage, and move a lot of stuff into it I think. OR... It will be setup as a fabrication area, and the main garage will have parts storage in it. I'm not sure yet... Need some pictures of that big shed you've got with the bikes and Skyline in
    • No. I think it's gone. 😭 I think you can get body coloured ones on eBay so I think I'll get one of those... Or just hang a red ribbon from the hole and whack a TOW sticker next to it.
    • Can't say I've had a bad experience with one on my car, then again it only gets washed once or twice a year... The wheels on the other hand, get a good spray often due to my shitty dusty pads.
    • @MBS206 thats pretty neat and tidy to me!  I'll get a photo of mine when I'm out there next. It might require multiple photos to understand the scale of the atrocities though... In total I have 4 sheds of varying sizes and layouts. Main shed is 14x8, second shed is 3x8, third shed is 11x2.5, fourth shed is around 6x4.  All are pretty much full.   The main goal of my cleaning tsunami is to make the main shed predominantly car and motorbikes only. Second shed is my metal fab room (2 x bench grinders, drill press, bench belt sander, metal band saw, scrap metal storage and some of my garden tools.  3rd shed is more bigger garden stuff, storage for engine crane, jack stands, concrete grinder, concrete mixer, air compressor lives there, and it now has two 2mx2m pallet racking shelves with itemised boxes holding building stuff, electrical stuff, plumbing stuff, etc, etc.  The 4th shed is Ryobi electric ride on mower, mini boom sprayer, ancient Kubota tractor, more garden stuff!  I have got a lot of shit....  Then there's the pool house (8mx4m) and the pool pump shed (4mx4m).  I built all of the sheds over the 11 years we've been here.  The main shed was a Ranbuild kit, the rest are all custom made to fit the areas available. Building the main shed taught me a LOT as I had no idea about building anything prior to that!  I've still got one more in me. It will be my man cave which I poured the extra concrete for way back when I poured the concrete for the main shed. The idea is the Skyline will be a centre piece of the main cave once (if...) it's finished.  I told my now 14 year old son yesterday that I will 100% drive him to his year 10 formal in 2 years. Still a long way off but at least I now have a date to work towards! 🤣
    • Modern oils are amazing. Add tyres to that as well.
×
×
  • Create New...