Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any tips on adjusting preload on actuator?

I usually run around 5mm of preload, or slightly over half the width of the hole. Depending on the spring it will take a bit of effort to pull the actuator back over the wastegate pin. The more preload the less the wastegate will travel, so you may need to dial it back a little if the boost is rising higher up in the revs. (unless that's the boost curve you are going for.)

Don't lose the circlip. ;)

  • Like 2

found this video from Tao, great music choice :thumbsup:

will run approx 3-4mm as advised by Tao. if i adjust actuator, will it affect the tune ?

my turbo 21u hiflow is getting fullboost by 4500~ which is very laggy.

me and toshi tested with no airbox cover on and it help response dramatically but no where near the 35-3700rpm it should be getting fullboost by.

current mods

480cc

21U hiflow

3" turboback jasma apexi superdunk

2,5" cooler

high pressure hypergear actuator @ 19-20psi

unopened rb25det s2 r33

Toshi suggested to run pod with EBC and it will help around 4000rpm but i want the 3500-3700 response that the 21U is supposed to make lol

didnt get change to run on dyno or complete 3rd and 4th gear runs as clutch slipped over 5000

If car is sitting on 1st gear then do expect 20psi over 5000RPM, I would advise of a clutch change and have the car fully tuned before trouble shooting take places, then preload the actuator through actuator bracket if needs to be.

Dude are you elvis? you bought my old turbo?

I had the 20 psi actuator installed with about 1-2mm negative preload on the actuator to bring boost down to about 17psi when i switched to 98. That killed response

Fit the black kinugawa actuator I gave you with about 5mm preload and you will get full boost around 3400rpm in 4th with max boost around 14-15 psi

  • Like 1

yeap

i don't get 17psi, i hit 19-20 lol

perhaps my mechanic may of moved actuator slightly as he installed a circlip to replace your wire you used.

Will do, Cheers Tim!

tao, can you confirm? shouldn't the high pressure actuator have same repsonse>?

Well, If Blackkers is getting good response using the same turbo then you should too. Just make sure the internal gate is shut and preloaded. and yes 20psi is lovely, baby it till it gets tuned, it should be all good :yes: .

  • Like 1

I usually slot the actuator bracket fitting holes, and that makes the actuator pre-loadable. Usually seeing around 15psi of boost once that is done.

Some updates. This is result of a OP6 high flow that I've done for Unique Auto Sports in NSWs.

R33 GTST stock engine with usual bolton supporting mods, PFC, pump 98 fuel. Final result of 278rwkws @ 18psi:

op6hf278rwkwr33.jpg

And a prototype turbo for Jet_R31. its the biggest possible turbo that we can make that fits into a T3x turbine housing. Hopping to see 600rwkws on his built RB30ET engine.

front.jpg

rear.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...