Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes it is. The recommendation would be working with our high pressure actuator, that will cost you $990 inc oil line. That way the waste gate bunk can travel all the way to a full 90 leaving gate port wide open. Gives abit more top end .

In terms of the housings I can swap it over for you as I have a spare.

How well does the 43SAT go with the journal bearing instead of ballbearing? I want to buy one but not sure that I can quite afford the ballbearing option...or should I just save a little longer and hold out for the ballbearing option?

The sr20vet is running around 20psi keeping it safe on tracks.

Yes definitely recommended bb for the new sat turbos, does make a notice able difference to throttle response.

How much boost to make 330rwkw on the SR20VET stao?..im guessing not a lot..and theres a lot more left in it

FWD/AWD is totally different beast to RWD.

The different orientation engines don't make comparable power. Plus driveshafts/diffs/gearbox are holding that particular car back from more power.

FWD/AWD is totally different beast to RWD.

The different orientation engines don't make comparable power. Plus driveshafts/diffs/gearbox are holding that particular car back from more power.

Yep i know this..

I also could work out pretty easy its not on kill..that turbo is a 61mm ish comp with a 64mm rear..it would want to have plenty left ex gated..

Cheers

Darren

  • 2 weeks later...

ATR43SS2 making 294rwkws @ 20psi P98 fuel:

Hypergear turbo z32 afm 770cc inj power fc ecu and boost t running 20psi

Been working on few new prototypes G3SAT turbos running Hybrid ball bearing combinations lately. I think I'm hitting a wall of getting any better then 20psi @ 3550RPM without comp surge. The drive ability is great however. I might be giving it to Mr Richo and see if that improves his track times.

  • Like 2

dirty plug, but if anyone wants a stock RB20DET/25DET manifold with already 55mm extended studs fitted of which 38mm is exposed at a minimum.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463178-fs-syd-rb20det-rb25det-stock-manifold-with-extended-studs-for-hektics/

Good for Hypergear turbo upgrades :)

Some more testing and evaluation results. This is our last BB ATR43G3SAT prototype turbocharger on R34 with P98 fuel internally gated. Note the linearness in power and torque curve to 5000RPM. Turbo made 308rwkws @ 20psi.

atr43sat308rwkw.jpg

atr43sat308rwkwboost.jpg

Yes. I'm considering that. Seen few in the past few month but prefer some thing in better conditions. But need to sell at least one of my test cars first, running out of parking spaces.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...