Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Wut?

Not tune, set boost to afr? What you mean man?

Have you never done that or something?

You just talk to the car nicely, tell it what you want

Sometimes you plug a Vac line in the AFR gauge (make sure its narrowband) and it tunes for you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mean use the wideband in ur exhust and work the afrs in turn the more boost you have the leaner ur engine will b to safely run most probs under 10psi so you dont lean it out so that was my question

Will the turbo do that? Or the ecu?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK thanks, will there be much difference in performance over standard?

No differences works exactly the same. Need to make sure factory turbine housing is not cracked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mean if you put a bigger turbo on without the supporting mods computer injectors exc you can do this tho you cant run high boost cus lean out injectors max out so obd wide band goes up exhust and you use a hand held computer that tells you ur air to fuel ratios you can tell if its leaning or richining thats all im trying to ask if

Tao from hypergear has had any 1 do this with a high flow turbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mean if you put a bigger turbo on without the supporting mods computer injectors exc you can do this tho you cant run high boost cus lean out injectors max out so obd wide band goes up exhust and you use a hand held computer that tells you ur air to fuel ratios you can tell if its leaning or richining thats all im trying to ask if

Tao from hypergear has had any 1 do this with a high flow turbo

Don't do it, it's not a VL commodore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn't make sense at all, a bigger turbo will push more air into the engine, you'll enter a section of the fuel/ignition map in the ecu wich isn't even there. There's no sense at all changing turbo's without doin 'the complete package'. If it should be that easy, why would everyone put aftermarket ecu's in there cae ... ;)

Edited by Dr. Surge
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you think outside the box you can piggyback a full standalone ontop and let that ecu do all the work but the stock ecu for auto control. Then literally cut all the ignition and injector outputs from the stock ecu and wire it up to the standalone.

Always ways around it, just need to think outside the box. Also you can set the stand alone to input a gear change signal and retard timing for you so you don't grenade your box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you think outside the box you can piggyback a full standalone ontop and let that ecu do all the work but the stock ecu for auto control. Then literally cut all the ignition and injector outputs from the stock ecu and wire it up to the standalone.

Always ways around it, just need to think outside the box. Also you can set the stand alone to input a gear change signal and retard timing for you so you don't grenade your box.

My box is fine. It only retards timing at wot anyway. I don't believe the adaptronic is capable of retarding on gear changes anyway, according to Andy.

And yes everything is run through the new ecu except for idle so the auto knows when it is in gear and obviously the auto control.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is a simple swap when you reuse the RB20 loom and auxiliaries. I run a standalone, but if I remember right, using the RB25 ecu you only have 2 injectors to inverse.  There are many DIY's on this subject online, including this forum.   
    • Surprisingly the D6000 is only $1999, I'm waiting for the BF/CM sales, and hoping to get one cheaper. D4000 is well priced, still outperforms the 13" SVS PB-3000 and is like 1/2 the price at $1699 RRP. I do watch a fair amount of movies, and listen to EDM, jazz, symphonies, etc. so the lower notes from a subwoofer are always appreciated. The front 8" stage, just doesn't provide you with lively feeling, even though they are pretty bassy for a pair of large bookshelves. Then again, these days it's just playing Wiggles, Blippi and Ms Rachel, another reason the 3m wide cabinet exists, to hide all the audio gear behind it. They used to sit on a nice pair of stands, but as you know, they make good baby traps too.
    • Granted, which is a solid reason why I don't have one. My floorstanders are only -2 dB at 22 Hz.  So they're still working down to <20 Hz. Which is no doubt part of the reason why my receiver shits the bed! That Tonewinner would be about double the cost though, so it's not apples and apples. There aren't many AU$1300 subs (that you can buy prebuilt, I'm ignoring what can be achieved by DIYing) that compete.
    • -6dB at 22Hz isn't that great, watch the data from the D6000 from REW
    • I'll just leave this here. https://www.adelaidespeakers.com/subwoofers.html TL loading, big power. They sound awesome. This is what I would buy if I was going to try to take the bass away from my floorstanders. Just go with the 12".
×
×
  • Create New...