Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You could be retarded like me and buy a standalone ECU for the gearbox..

Or be like my current better half who just learned to drive manual

Ur right dose pipe you can pigy back tho has to b a good stand alone tho i did hear you can use a r34 computer and go nistune to how true this is im unsure

R34 like S2 Stagea has a different plug. People usually just get something like a Greddy Emanage, HKS F Con or even a Link and interrupt the appropriate wires.

Adaptronic e420d are cheaper in the long run and Tao has the best price in Australia. Msg Tao and ask him how much.

The greddy is old tech and you need to buy a whole lot of add ons to get to where the adaptronic is.

Tao, my early 2012 SS2 appears to have done a compressor seal. When I pressurized the manifold it leaked out almost the whole way round the seal.

What's it gonna cost to fix that and any upgrades you would recommend?

The seals in turbos steel C clips. They are not an liquid tight seals. Unless there are measurable back n forward play, those seals won't wear, and if its also not leaking when the engine is running its most likely to be alright.

Most of turbo drain system relays on gravity. When crank case pressure is applied, oil will be forced out of both compressor and turbine seals.

If there is an measurable back n forward play it would require an rebuild. Assume all it needs is an bearing kit, I will charge you $100 to carry out.

The current SS2 is very different to what it was, it makes a lot more power without losing response, specially for externally gated application. But that will require a new build and I'm happy to look after you on the pricing.

Ah good, there is no play in it, just weeping air out the seal when compressor was pressurized. Wasn't leaking enough to hear but could see when spraying soapy water on it.

Found 7 boost leaks and 1 vacuum leak on the car so hopefully it's a completely different beast now.

Thanks for the offer but I'm quite happy with its performance and will stick with it.

Edit- and the crankcase circuit wasn't pressurized so the oil seals are fine :)

Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing.

I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol.

I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer.

I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies.

A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.

  • Like 2

Drifting video from Jason.F's R31 Wagon. This particular project has a very unique CBB turbo build on getting most reponsive 320rwkws out of none VVTI 1JZ. It has been a challenge dealing with back pressure and took a few try to get working.

  • Like 4

Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing.

I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol.

I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer.

I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies.

A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.

Sounds awesome, glad someones havin some fun...

Vids of skids and teh su.. su.. su.. sututututuutut...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would like to add that at least in my car, the RPM gauge shows around 200RPM above of what I can see at nistune.
    • Unless you have big cams, there is no reason for an RB to idle at any more than the stock 650. No, it is not 850, 950, or anything else. It is 650. In fact, it might even be 550. I just opened an arbitrary stock Neo file in Nistune, and this is what I see
    • I love the undertray, especially the flappy bit for easier access for serving I'm thinking of fabing up one at work for the MX5 while I still have access to the metal shop at work with a guillotine and press brake Whilst removing the plastic undertray on the MX5 isn't to hard, I love the idea of a 2 bolt flap as opposed to removing the whole thing 
    • Great thank you for that. Yeah that is the bumper and spoiler it still has i just hadn't heard of it being referred to as a aero form bumper before. Really appreciate your help.
    • A little progress; I took the opportunity of an oil change to take a sample for oil analysis, will be interesting to see how it was treated for its first 125,000klm (I know how it has been treated since :rofl:) I went with 5w40 and will see what that does for oil pressure at higher revs. Also fitted the Z1 front undertray....a little more sturdy than the plastic factory one (although I suspect it won't stop a tree stump ) Nicest thing about it really is the 2 bolt "service panel"....a gift to the oil changer compared to removing 14 bolts holding the factory tray.
×
×
  • Create New...