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You could be retarded like me and buy a standalone ECU for the gearbox..

Or be like my current better half who just learned to drive manual

Ur right dose pipe you can pigy back tho has to b a good stand alone tho i did hear you can use a r34 computer and go nistune to how true this is im unsure

R34 like S2 Stagea has a different plug. People usually just get something like a Greddy Emanage, HKS F Con or even a Link and interrupt the appropriate wires.

Adaptronic e420d are cheaper in the long run and Tao has the best price in Australia. Msg Tao and ask him how much.

The greddy is old tech and you need to buy a whole lot of add ons to get to where the adaptronic is.

Tao, my early 2012 SS2 appears to have done a compressor seal. When I pressurized the manifold it leaked out almost the whole way round the seal.

What's it gonna cost to fix that and any upgrades you would recommend?

The seals in turbos steel C clips. They are not an liquid tight seals. Unless there are measurable back n forward play, those seals won't wear, and if its also not leaking when the engine is running its most likely to be alright.

Most of turbo drain system relays on gravity. When crank case pressure is applied, oil will be forced out of both compressor and turbine seals.

If there is an measurable back n forward play it would require an rebuild. Assume all it needs is an bearing kit, I will charge you $100 to carry out.

The current SS2 is very different to what it was, it makes a lot more power without losing response, specially for externally gated application. But that will require a new build and I'm happy to look after you on the pricing.

Ah good, there is no play in it, just weeping air out the seal when compressor was pressurized. Wasn't leaking enough to hear but could see when spraying soapy water on it.

Found 7 boost leaks and 1 vacuum leak on the car so hopefully it's a completely different beast now.

Thanks for the offer but I'm quite happy with its performance and will stick with it.

Edit- and the crankcase circuit wasn't pressurized so the oil seals are fine :)

Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing.

I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol.

I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer.

I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies.

A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.

  • Like 2

Drifting video from Jason.F's R31 Wagon. This particular project has a very unique CBB turbo build on getting most reponsive 320rwkws out of none VVTI 1JZ. It has been a challenge dealing with back pressure and took a few try to get working.

  • Like 4

Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing.

I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol.

I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer.

I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies.

A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.

Sounds awesome, glad someones havin some fun...

Vids of skids and teh su.. su.. su.. sututututuutut...

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
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