Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Tao and all.

just wondering which turbo (or CHRA) you would recommend for a 2L 4-cylinder engine with short stroke & big bore (unlike the SR20DET) for a responsive upto 300rwkw?

I have read the 581 pages (wow what a read) and given the atr28ss2 would give me what i need, would like to know how the ATR28 & ATR43 differ and which one can ideally be suited to my T3 flange.

Hi Tao and all.

just wondering which turbo (or CHRA) you would recommend for a 2L 4-cylinder engine with short stroke & big bore (unlike the SR20DET) for a responsive upto 300rwkw?

I have read the 581 pages (wow what a read) and given the atr28ss2 would give me what i need, would like to know how the ATR28 & ATR43 differ and which one can ideally be suited to my T3 flange.

anyone?

given my manifold has T3 flange it seems i'll need to go for a ATR43 based CHRA. Just not sure how it will perform on my engine.

does anyone know the difference b/w the ATR28 & ATR43 turbine ends?

You can use our Atr43g3sat model in ceramic ball bearing assembly externally gated

thanks Tao.

any guesses when i'll roughly see fullboost?

alos, what would be the next smaller CHRA i could use?

thanks Tao.

any guesses when i'll roughly see fullboost?

alos, what would be the next smaller CHRA i could use?

Also, would it work ok with an A/R .63 turbine housing?

Atr43g3sat would be laggy on sr20 its already quite laggy on a rb25

One size down would be the atr43ss2

No ones tryed it on a sr20 yet

Would be quite good on a t3 highmount manifold and cbb

.63 rear externally gated

Would be quite responsive but may choke the engine over 300kw

On e85 might be ok but pump 98 may get detonation early

Depends what you want the car for

Responsive street setup .63ar or all out power drag .82ar just may be more lag

.63 t3 housings make heaps on 4 cylinders(350+),much more than the little

t2 housings ever will

You havnt got no where near as much backpressure as a rb25.

You could try the 20.5g he builds. Ss2 comp.l2 turbine 8cm housing.

We have one on stock bottom end sr. Does 315rwkw atm on low 20s boost and e85.

We used a china cast mani which had no boost control.

Now gone 6boost and 45mm gate,trying to get it booked in for tuneatm and will be put "on kill" shortly....

Another guy in qld did 370rwkw on one on 27psi ish with a bit left in the tank so be interesting to see what it makes.

We fitted a small water injection nozzle pre turbo this time aswell

Have a atr45sat ss here aswell ..have joked about fitting that..lol

Cheers

Darren

Atr43g3sat is the latest model that is more responsive then the ss2.

Thats the one made 317rwkws with 20psi @ 3550rpm P98 fuel. I think the larger model referred to was the Atr45sat.

Not a Sr, for a short stroke 2L depending on CPR, can run in a .63 or .58 rear.

Atr43g3sat would be laggy on sr20 its already quite laggy on a rb25

One size down would be the atr43ss2

No ones tryed it on a sr20 yet

Would be quite good on a t3 highmount manifold and cbb

.63 rear externally gated

Would be quite responsive but may choke the engine over 300kw

On e85 might be ok but pump 98 may get detonation early

Depends what you want the car for

Responsive street setup .63ar or all out power drag .82ar just may be more lag

thanks for the response.

ultimately the car will be street driven and maybe the odd track day (for some fun) given its heritage.

given this, it will need to stay with the original A/R .63 internal gated housing - i'd also like the engine bay looking factory spec.

and i'll prefer to stay with P98.

.63 t3 housings make heaps on 4 cylinders(350+),much more than the little

t2 housings ever will

You havnt got no where near as much backpressure as a rb25.

You could try the 20.5g he builds. Ss2 comp.l2 turbine 8cm housing.

We have one on stock bottom end sr. Does 315rwkw atm on low 20s boost and e85.

We used a china cast mani which had no boost control.

Now gone 6boost and 45mm gate,trying to get it booked in for tuneatm and will be put "on kill" shortly....

Another guy in qld did 370rwkw on one on 27psi ish with a bit left in the tank so be interesting to see what it makes.

We fitted a small water injection nozzle pre turbo this time aswell

Have a atr45sat ss here aswell ..have joked about fitting that..lol

Cheers

Darren

i'd assume the T3 .63 would flow better than the T28 .64.

the 20.5 (ss2) turbo does look tempting, but per my previous post, i'd prefer to stick with internal gate to keep the factory look.

it seems like i might need to look at the atr43ss2, possibly in CBB.

Atr43g3sat is the latest model that is more responsive then the ss2.

Thats the one made 317rwkws with 20psi @ 3550rpm P98 fuel. I think the larger model referred to was the Atr45sat.

Not a Sr, for a short stroke 2L depending on CPR, can run in a .63 or .58 rear.

so does this ATR43G3SAT have a CBB core?

what size is the turbine wheel because i might look at having my housing machined to suit?

yep, short stroke (over-square) engine with twin cams, forgies, etc, CR will be around 8.0:1.

given it's my weekend street car, response and strong mid-range is important.

it's not a track broad minded person or dyno queen.

so does this ATR43G3SAT have a CBB core?

what size is the turbine wheel because i might look at having my housing machined to suit?

yep, short stroke (over-square) engine with twin cams, forgies, etc, CR will be around 8.0:1.

given it's my weekend street car, response and strong mid-range is important.

it's not a track broad minded person or dyno queen.

What engine exactly are we talking about here? It will help people here to assist you.

What engine exactly are we talking about here? It will help people here to assist you.

Not sure why he hasn't actually said engine, but I'm going to guess a YB* series Ford. Given his name, I'd say he owns an RS500.

Not sure why he hasn't actually said engine, but I'm going to guess a YB* series Ford. Given his name, I'd say he owns an RS500.

i didnt think it would really make any difference, but correct, it's a yb cosworth engine.

CBB will give you day and night difference with transient response compared to its journal bearing brother.

I went from a SS2 journal to CBB (ceramic ball bearing) and the difference is day and night.

  • Like 1

2016 version of SS2 has many changes made to earlier models. The difference in end result would be a combination of alterations made.

Ceramic ball bearing system makes difference in throttle response and becomes very apparent when working with low CPR, None VCT engines as well as cars with Auto transmission. It is definitely recommended for that Cosworth engine.

2016 version of SS2 has many changes made to earlier models. The difference in end result would be a combination of alterations made. Ceramic ball bearing system makes difference in throttle response and becomes very apparent when working with low CPR, None VCT engines as well as cars with Auto transmission. It is definitely recommended for that Cosworth engine.

Speaking of Non VCT, low cr engines, did you ever end up doing any development with an RB20 Tao?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...