Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I like to hear what intercoolers people are going to after the Blitz return flow . I have one and I think from memory the earlier ones had a larger bore return tube than the later ones .

Also if someone's had the Blitz and changed the core to something else and then plumbed it return style I'd like to see pics of that PLZ . 

 

Cheers A .

Interesting to see that you guys made that on such similar setup. My cat is very highflow. And the intake is a scotty special so no way it could suck shut.

Exhaust is just a normal 3 inch stainless steel with resonator and cannon. Going to be swapping cannon to a oval muffler soon.

Can't really see what else would be causing my particular setup restrictions other than the wastegate, intercooler or intake. But if you guys are running similar then I'm stumped. Intercooler has been proven in the past to be an issue though. 

3 hours ago, V28VX37 said:


I remember at least two cars reporting just a smidge under 300rwkw on pulp with a Blitz so doubt that it's the sole restriction. Maybe search the 'all dyno results' thread for the full supporting mods?

Also like I think I mentioned the other day, my car went from 257 to 275 rwkw by swapping from an Xforce to a Venom cat, decent difference. Which cat are you running?

I run no cat. its not a road car. My cooler testing results were all based on the same exhaust.

 

 
Mine was tuned at about 289KW on BP 98 by JEM - Same turbo, Same cooler, 3" JJR exhaust with an unknown dump and unknown highflow cat, Splitfires with the stock airbox and snorkel. Interesting to see the differences between them. 
I'll also be changing my cooler in the near future and going to a venom cat as recommended by V28VX37. 
Similar to you my IWG actuator was opening at 10PSI which I changed after getting it tuned. The tuner mentioned that he had to have my AVCR settings cranked right up to get it to hold boost, since changing it to a Turbosmart variant I have the settings at 1/3 what it used to be. 
Inbox me if you want more details 

How much boost are you running for that amount of power? On 98
Interesting to see that you guys made that on such similar setup. My cat is errm none existent. And the intake is a scotty special so no way it could suck shut.

Exhaust is just a normal 3 inch stainless steel with resonator and cannon. Going to be swapping cannon to a oval muffler soon.

Can't really see what else would be causing my particular setup restrictions other than the wastegate, intercooler or intake. But if you guys are running similar then I'm stumped. Intercooler has been proven in the past to be an issue though. 

I'm going to go with wastegate issue. Needs more preload or stiffer actuator. Top end is dropping to 16psi. If it could hold 20 you would probably make 285kw on 98 and that would be around the expected power for the setup. I run an older type blitz return flow cooler also with just a high flow 21u and there is no issue holding 19psi flat to red line. A conventional cooler would be better but it still does the job pretty well. I'm also running a crappy Nismo exhaust, car sounds like a vacuum cleaner on steroids.

4 minutes ago, hy_rpm said:

Exhaust isnt a jap branded jasma badged one is it ?

http://www.zssracing.com.au/zss-attack-dt-exhaust-system-nissan-silvia-s15.html

This but suited for R34 GTT, so no step downs to 2inch or anything silly

3 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Possibly collapsed mufflers also.

No muffler on it, 3inch dump into 3 inch highfow cat + resonator out of a big cannon

1 hour ago, hypergear said:

I run no cat. its not a road car. My cooler testing results were all based on the same exhaust.

Hey Tao, I mean no bad brother

Would not 90% of your turbo cutomers be street driven guys looking for their super responsive "holy grail" turbo that passes for near stock appearance, like I see repeatedly in threads including yours ( me included )?

You do sensational research and track cars have to a degree, unlimited mods to achieve their attainable power, but, seriously if your going to punch out dyno figures that are up there, why not also run them with a sytem that has half a chance being legal. Sure your kw at wheels will be lower but then isnt that more real life mate?

 

 

This is a public forum , I do not encourage any members breaking laws.  on same time none results compared against appears road legal either.

Must remember a engine system makes power depending on the amount of air it can flow. If any components within is maxed then no more power could be made. one of reasons of why I buy cars and modifying them is to susing out the limitation of individual components and learn their rolls.

There are always two parts in my evaluations. One part that people overlook is vehicle modifications. Without a solid foundation results are meaningless and useless to any turbo developments. If any one following my FB, you will notice the time and frustration I've been through building testing beds before any official results.

I got what I've got. This is where problem comes in, and that Sexy looking R34.2 drained a 25 year old bones dry is a perfect example of nothing works the way they seemed. Car's been modded all over again, following diagnosing issues from worn and teared oem parts. That build is still in progress, A lot of money and frustration.

My results are based on a free flow engine system followed by a good turbo combination. Not I only made my mod list clear, I've putting extra efforts  proven comparative component data so people don't take detours. If my steps are followed there is no reasons of why my results can't be matched. After all my cars are bought pretty standard from average Johns on Carsales just like everyone else. 

Hey mate, as I said, I mean no bad to you and was never intending to put you in a defensive posture

Your dedication to research and development of our Nissans is highly admired and respected

Disregard my last post, I must not have explained myself well enough

All the best Tao ??

 

 

 

no no, nothing wrong with the inquiry, its probably something many other members had in mind. I'm covering areas people needs to know and expect before modding their cars, and in case of under performance, there is enough information to pin point the problem.   

  • Like 1

Just for reference, I had a setup running a cat, 2x mufflers and 1x resonator that sounded quieter than 90% of the Skyline boats out there and it made more power than Tao's test rig. Not to mention ran the stock intake plenum, and a modified stock exhaust manifold. 

So yeah it all depends on your setup and tuner.

  • Like 1

Tao what is your intercooler preference for a GTS25T please . I've search a little way back in this thread and you mentioned PWR .

I want to lose the Blitz return flow and I agree that inlet flow restrictions are an issue and seem to peg these cars at around 280ish RWKW even if most things are sort of right .

To recap I run the Blitz RF IC and 3076R 0.82 IW on std manifold , with Scotty fabbed intake tube . The exhaust is 3 1/2" from housing to behind cat which is an I can't remember 200 cell stainless one .

3" pipe with straight through mufflers x2 . Will look into Venom 100 cell if they are as good as it gets in a cat . Going to ID750s and fixing forked exhaust guides made a hell of a difference to the low down and idle mixture control , no obnoxious fumes at idle . Can just about get away with 100 cell I reckon . 

I do like the idea of the OE cast crossover pipe because I can keep the standard recirc valve . I think ultimately I can get away with non standard IC piping in the engine bay because after more than 10 years with this R33 I've never been asked roadside to "pop the lid" - ever . I guess I'm too old and and don't hoon so cops ignore me .

Please can you tell me the gun intercooler and pipework to run to not make flow or cooling an issue ever for 300 plus wheel wasps . Also I'm running 98 PULP rather than ethanol these days so need every cooling advantage I can get to run acceptable ignition timing . Every Skyline out there is seemingly an IC with a car bolted to it and it doesn't seem to make them cop bait around here . So , money aside , what do you think rocks - PWR Plazmaman ? Looking for a result not a bargain .   

Edited by discopotato03
1 hour ago, Manuel Kasko said:

I got recommended Plazmaman by both Tao and Jez, I think they sell for between $800-$1100 from what I can tell. 

and I can give you kids better deals :)

Also for budget conscious consumers, the new HDi GT2 cores are not that bad either.. "lowish" intake temps.. I recorded only 45 degrees on a S15 with 1.5bar of boost going into it on the dyno at full noise with the IAT mounted near where the FMIC pipe work goes into the battery tray.

12 hours ago, vxsr33 said:


How much boost are you running for that amount of power? On 98

I just had a look at the dyno sheet - Looks like 18PSI tapering down to 16PSI which seems to hold 18PSI consistently since changing the actuator. 

Johnny thanks for that , searched for info on the HDi GT2 and RS intercoolers . There appears to be GT2 R33 kits but couldn't find an RS R33 kit .

Will now look into the PWR 600x300x89mm one .

Thanks all cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
×
×
  • Create New...