Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

I like to hear what intercoolers people are going to after the Blitz return flow . I have one and I think from memory the earlier ones had a larger bore return tube than the later ones .

Also if someone's had the Blitz and changed the core to something else and then plumbed it return style I'd like to see pics of that PLZ . 

 

Cheers A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting to see that you guys made that on such similar setup. My cat is very highflow. And the intake is a scotty special so no way it could suck shut.

Exhaust is just a normal 3 inch stainless steel with resonator and cannon. Going to be swapping cannon to a oval muffler soon.

Can't really see what else would be causing my particular setup restrictions other than the wastegate, intercooler or intake. But if you guys are running similar then I'm stumped. Intercooler has been proven in the past to be an issue though. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, V28VX37 said:


I remember at least two cars reporting just a smidge under 300rwkw on pulp with a Blitz so doubt that it's the sole restriction. Maybe search the 'all dyno results' thread for the full supporting mods?

Also like I think I mentioned the other day, my car went from 257 to 275 rwkw by swapping from an Xforce to a Venom cat, decent difference. Which cat are you running?

I run no cat. its not a road car. My cooler testing results were all based on the same exhaust.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
Mine was tuned at about 289KW on BP 98 by JEM - Same turbo, Same cooler, 3" JJR exhaust with an unknown dump and unknown highflow cat, Splitfires with the stock airbox and snorkel. Interesting to see the differences between them. 
I'll also be changing my cooler in the near future and going to a venom cat as recommended by V28VX37. 
Similar to you my IWG actuator was opening at 10PSI which I changed after getting it tuned. The tuner mentioned that he had to have my AVCR settings cranked right up to get it to hold boost, since changing it to a Turbosmart variant I have the settings at 1/3 what it used to be. 
Inbox me if you want more details 

How much boost are you running for that amount of power? On 98
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting to see that you guys made that on such similar setup. My cat is errm none existent. And the intake is a scotty special so no way it could suck shut.

Exhaust is just a normal 3 inch stainless steel with resonator and cannon. Going to be swapping cannon to a oval muffler soon.

Can't really see what else would be causing my particular setup restrictions other than the wastegate, intercooler or intake. But if you guys are running similar then I'm stumped. Intercooler has been proven in the past to be an issue though. 

I'm going to go with wastegate issue. Needs more preload or stiffer actuator. Top end is dropping to 16psi. If it could hold 20 you would probably make 285kw on 98 and that would be around the expected power for the setup. I run an older type blitz return flow cooler also with just a high flow 21u and there is no issue holding 19psi flat to red line. A conventional cooler would be better but it still does the job pretty well. I'm also running a crappy Nismo exhaust, car sounds like a vacuum cleaner on steroids.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, hy_rpm said:

Exhaust isnt a jap branded jasma badged one is it ?

http://www.zssracing.com.au/zss-attack-dt-exhaust-system-nissan-silvia-s15.html

This but suited for R34 GTT, so no step downs to 2inch or anything silly

3 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Possibly collapsed mufflers also.

No muffler on it, 3inch dump into 3 inch highfow cat + resonator out of a big cannon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, hypergear said:

I run no cat. its not a road car. My cooler testing results were all based on the same exhaust.

Hey Tao, I mean no bad brother

Would not 90% of your turbo cutomers be street driven guys looking for their super responsive "holy grail" turbo that passes for near stock appearance, like I see repeatedly in threads including yours ( me included )?

You do sensational research and track cars have to a degree, unlimited mods to achieve their attainable power, but, seriously if your going to punch out dyno figures that are up there, why not also run them with a sytem that has half a chance being legal. Sure your kw at wheels will be lower but then isnt that more real life mate?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a public forum , I do not encourage any members breaking laws.  on same time none results compared against appears road legal either.

Must remember a engine system makes power depending on the amount of air it can flow. If any components within is maxed then no more power could be made. one of reasons of why I buy cars and modifying them is to susing out the limitation of individual components and learn their rolls.

There are always two parts in my evaluations. One part that people overlook is vehicle modifications. Without a solid foundation results are meaningless and useless to any turbo developments. If any one following my FB, you will notice the time and frustration I've been through building testing beds before any official results.

I got what I've got. This is where problem comes in, and that Sexy looking R34.2 drained a 25 year old bones dry is a perfect example of nothing works the way they seemed. Car's been modded all over again, following diagnosing issues from worn and teared oem parts. That build is still in progress, A lot of money and frustration.

My results are based on a free flow engine system followed by a good turbo combination. Not I only made my mod list clear, I've putting extra efforts  proven comparative component data so people don't take detours. If my steps are followed there is no reasons of why my results can't be matched. After all my cars are bought pretty standard from average Johns on Carsales just like everyone else. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate, as I said, I mean no bad to you and was never intending to put you in a defensive posture

Your dedication to research and development of our Nissans is highly admired and respected

Disregard my last post, I must not have explained myself well enough

All the best Tao ??

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no no, nothing wrong with the inquiry, its probably something many other members had in mind. I'm covering areas people needs to know and expect before modding their cars, and in case of under performance, there is enough information to pin point the problem.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just for reference, I had a setup running a cat, 2x mufflers and 1x resonator that sounded quieter than 90% of the Skyline boats out there and it made more power than Tao's test rig. Not to mention ran the stock intake plenum, and a modified stock exhaust manifold. 

So yeah it all depends on your setup and tuner.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tao what is your intercooler preference for a GTS25T please . I've search a little way back in this thread and you mentioned PWR .

I want to lose the Blitz return flow and I agree that inlet flow restrictions are an issue and seem to peg these cars at around 280ish RWKW even if most things are sort of right .

To recap I run the Blitz RF IC and 3076R 0.82 IW on std manifold , with Scotty fabbed intake tube . The exhaust is 3 1/2" from housing to behind cat which is an I can't remember 200 cell stainless one .

3" pipe with straight through mufflers x2 . Will look into Venom 100 cell if they are as good as it gets in a cat . Going to ID750s and fixing forked exhaust guides made a hell of a difference to the low down and idle mixture control , no obnoxious fumes at idle . Can just about get away with 100 cell I reckon . 

I do like the idea of the OE cast crossover pipe because I can keep the standard recirc valve . I think ultimately I can get away with non standard IC piping in the engine bay because after more than 10 years with this R33 I've never been asked roadside to "pop the lid" - ever . I guess I'm too old and and don't hoon so cops ignore me .

Please can you tell me the gun intercooler and pipework to run to not make flow or cooling an issue ever for 300 plus wheel wasps . Also I'm running 98 PULP rather than ethanol these days so need every cooling advantage I can get to run acceptable ignition timing . Every Skyline out there is seemingly an IC with a car bolted to it and it doesn't seem to make them cop bait around here . So , money aside , what do you think rocks - PWR Plazmaman ? Looking for a result not a bargain .   

Edited by discopotato03
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Manuel Kasko said:

I got recommended Plazmaman by both Tao and Jez, I think they sell for between $800-$1100 from what I can tell. 

and I can give you kids better deals :)

Also for budget conscious consumers, the new HDi GT2 cores are not that bad either.. "lowish" intake temps.. I recorded only 45 degrees on a S15 with 1.5bar of boost going into it on the dyno at full noise with the IAT mounted near where the FMIC pipe work goes into the battery tray.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, vxsr33 said:


How much boost are you running for that amount of power? On 98

I just had a look at the dyno sheet - Looks like 18PSI tapering down to 16PSI which seems to hold 18PSI consistently since changing the actuator. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gosh these bmw's are worse money pits than JDM's! I won't complain about my car anymore 😂
    • I'll just leave this quick tip here after reading your joys of getting the car in the air. It should take no more then 10 minutes to get the car safely up on stands.  So for the front, jack on the tow recovery points (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). This photo is of a R34 GTR, however the process is the same. For the rear, jack under the diff (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the rear subframe or where the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). Which point you use will depend on your stand, pick a nice stable point.  You've probably already read this but it's worth repeating. When jacking up the car or using stands, stay away from the chassis rails/pinch welds. Even the factory jack point, stay away from that too unless using a factory jack. I used those jack points for years without issue until I turned into an old man and bought a QuickJack lol. 
    • And this is where the leak is happening: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7h1vlmg2j5aa7rksvsjc9/IMG_9982.jpeg?rlkey=d3bnpau5f615zmxqmca0llvr7&st=kquvdxvs&dl=0   Apologies but it seems adding an image from a link does not work when the images are in Dropbox. 
    • Here are some pics from the auction: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0   https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0
    • Hi all, From the western suburbs here. Just got my 2000 R34 GTT registered today! Got it imported from Japan through a mate who is doing them and managed to find a decent one. This one has only done 110,000 Km and had no body rust etc. so was very happy. I used to own a 25Gt back in 2015 (ate Ramen noodles for years to save up for it), but unfortunately, it got stolen TEN DAYS after I bought it!! Came back from Uni and the car was missing - cops found it in Springvale a month later with a lot of needles  😒 It was too late by then and I had moved on to a different car (300ZX), and after that one got broken into around 2018, I was in a very bad place and decided I would never buy a car again because it was just pointless!!! ~yeah, I have some very bad mojo~ 🥺 But now, with a stable job and a secure garage, I thought I'd get the R34 4D again but not as a daily! I love the R34s but a GTR is still a bit off my pay grade so settled for the GTT instead.    The first step for me is to get this car serviced and have all fluids, belts and spark plugs changed. I might do the brakes at one point too but atm they are fine, the fluids are what I want changed since this car probably sat in a garage for a long time. I'll then get some coilovers since the suspension needs to be changed anyway (the dust cover kit is disintegrating). I'll also upgrade my car alarm to a Viper system and then look at rims and tyres (I'm a sucker for TE37s - might have enough saved in another 3 years for that).   Today: I was planning to do the oil, coolant, air filter and fuel filter change this week. Started on the oil change today and MY GOD what a pain!! I used to think the 300ZX engine bay was cramped - oh I was so wrong! 😂 I've done the usual services on my cars before so it was not like I was going in blind. I looked up all the forum details about what oils to use, what coolant to use, what points to use to jack the car or place stands etc but I did not expect it to be this hard. Long story short - all I managed to do was the oil and filter change. I think I might end up taking it to a mechanic for a coolant change because my SCA stands and trolley jack just can't get far enough underneath to the cross-member and I don't want to be crushed under my favourite car....yet. Side note: In Dandenong, there used to be a shop that lets you hire their hoists - does anyone know if they have those around? I can't seem to find the Dandenong place anymore. I contacted them off FB almost 6 years ago and I'm not in it now. If anyone know of one, that would save me some time going to a mechanic for the basic services. Oil: Dark and gooey but no metal pieces. Oil Filter: Was a b***h to take off but no red flags Air filter: Yucky! Was black (Smells like fuel which makes me think it may have been running rich? - am I way off?)   Concerns: I have but one concern atm and that is that there was a very small amount of oil leaking where the engine and the transmission connect (Automatic). It may be the rear seal? It's not a massive leak and it does not affect the oil pressures or leak oil all along the driveway. It's been falling into the cover this whole time. I've taken the cover off so I can check the garage floor from time to time.  I also have not seen my engine temperature gauge ever sit at cold and slowly move up to the right spot, but that might be because every time I saw the car today, it was running. I'll check that again tomorrow. ATM it just sits right in the middle. I may just be paranoid but I don't want an overheating engine while my gauges say everything is fine. 🙈 Other than that, I'm very happy with the car! Feels like it's about time I went back to spending my weekends driving or cutting my arm on stupid sh*t in the engine bay.   PS: I will post a pic later on because I underestimated soooo badly today and it was dark by the time I finished! PPS: I broke the two damn plastic pins that hold the intake funnel section to the front bar. This is the piece made to bring cold air to the airbox. The connection to the airbox is fone, but the two clips just broke off! Should I be worried? Anyone else done that? 
×
×
  • Create New...