Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Hi Tao , I will contact PWR today about their 600 x 300 x 89mm intercooler .

I went back looking for your posts and noted some dated 18.8.2016 (P 587) where you bought another R34 GTt and tried the typical Blitz return flow and a flawed Japanese exhaust . You were trying to prove to a customer that his setup was the issue not your turbocharger .

I think I'm ok exhaust wise and that 0.82 GT3076R is a reasonable thing but that Blitz return flow has to go and I just want to hear you say that your 3-400 RWKW results have been with PWRs intercoolers and generally Plasmaman pipes . I realize the higher numbers usually come from using E85 fuel . Don't suppose you have pics of these PWR Intercoolers ? Would you consider stocking them .

Also what do you recommend for an R33 as cold air intake . I have Scottys intake pipe plumbed into a Z32 AFM and the std air box and snorkel .

When everything else is "right" I'll look at turbos again .

Thanks in advance cheers Adrian .

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just off the phone to PWR , they don't know of any 600 x 300 x 89mm intercooler . They do an R33 GTR one Pn PWR 154641 600 x 265 x 81 rated at 1000 Hp . Has swept back 80mm in/out .

Tao is this the one you mean or do you have a different part number .

Cheers A .

 

 

Edited by discopotato03
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I advise everyone to obtain that cooler direct from PWR. I trailed it is because majority people whom complaint about a boost tapering issue had a blitz return flow cooler and so did mine. Yes I changed nothing but intercooler kits during those evaluations and PWR 600x300x89mm cooler has proven to be the best one out of the bunch. Once again my advise and test data on this matter is general. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, hypergear said:

I advise everyone to obtain that cooler direct from PWR. I trailed it is because majority people whom complaint about a boost tapering issue had a blitz return flow cooler and so did mine. Yes I changed nothing but intercooler kits during those evaluations and PWR 600x300x89mm cooler has proven to be the best one out of the bunch. Once again my advise and test data on this matter is general. 

I think you missed the part where he said that PWR said over the phone that there is no cooler of that measurements 600x300x89mm
The closest they have is R33 GTR PWR 600 x 265 x 81

So there must be confusion with either your measurements or the one you have isn't PWR? 
Can you list the part number for your 600x300x89mm if you have one? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright have the diagrams from PWR so for those that want to know everything .

Core 600 x 81 mm

Tanks 93 width x 70 horizontal length , barbs 76.2 (3") 80mm center above base height .

Threaded mounts on 500mm centers top and bottom .

 

This is interesting in that it uses the same sized core as the 33GTR one but a little longer . The tanks are generic and the mountings much simpler than the model specific 33 GTR one . Think I'll go with one of these , thanks Tao .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious as well how people are running their cooler pipes on the R34's 
My previous R33 had the hold under the battery tray, went over the pits here in Canberra and they didn't look twice at it. However I hear that NSW has more of a problem with it.

@hyper-gear have you done a PWR cooler with return flow piping or similar?
Maybe I could swap out the core and keep the same piping if that's not a restriction with the 90 degree bend. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious as well how people are running their cooler pipes on the R34's 
My previous R33 had the hold under the battery tray, went over the pits here in Canberra and they didn't look twice at it. However I hear that NSW has more of a problem with it.
@hyper-gear have you done a PWR cooler with return flow piping or similar?
Maybe I could swap out the core and keep the same piping if that's not a restriction with the 90 degree bend. 

Im pretty sure the return flow piping is the main restriction, especially with that 180degree bend. Swapping the blitz core for the pwr core but retaining the piping probably wouldnt do much.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/18/2016 at 11:48 PM, hypergear said:

 

atr45sat.jpg

 

enginebay.jpg

 

This is an perfect example of how important it is picking the right supporting and differences it makes to overall performance.

@vxsr33 This person managed 400rwkw using what looks like return flow cooling and custom CAI.
I love the look of this setup. 

 

Obviously not a blitz though, I think it was PWR 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@vxsr33 This person managed 400rwkw using what looks like return flow cooling and custom CAI.
I love the look of this setup. 
 
Obviously not a blitz though, I think it was PWR 

Yeah thats the thing that gets me, seems there is always a few cases of people getting great power with return flow coolers.

I assume that you can still make good power with a return flow, however unroadworthy piping just flows better and helps make power more easily.

That setup looks very stealth. I like it
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's no reason why a return flow cooler couldn't have a decent end tank and pipe connection that flows properly.  None.  It may be the case that most (or maybe just many) of the common ones suck and there's a small number that behave themselves.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

There's no reason why a return flow cooler couldn't have a decent end tank and pipe connection that flows properly.  None.  It may be the case that most (or maybe just many) of the common ones suck and there's a small number that behave themselves.

I saw one that I think Scotty posted, pipes running under and up where your radiator hoses are, means it will have to be custom pipework but that's not too expensive. Especially if it eliminates the costs of cutting a hole under the battery tray.

I think later down the track I'll just buy a PWR intercooler and some custom pipework to run nice and short without cutting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Manuel Kasko said:

I saw one that I think Scotty posted, pipes running under and up where your radiator hoses are, means it will have to be custom pipework but that's not too expensive. Especially if it eliminates the costs of cutting a hole under the battery tray.

I think later down the track I'll just buy a PWR intercooler and some custom pipework to run nice and short without cutting.

You're right I messaged Trent about this on Facebook and he said it is definitely a normal cooler with custom return flow style piping for the stock appearance. Scotty also mentioned that it's possible to make a normal cooler work with standard pipes (no cutting) but it's custom and needs to route around the radiator. 

The other issue that Trent mentioned about this Stagea was that there was 5psi+ of back pressure and by simply removing the cat it picked up better response and more power. This is why Tao says if you're having power issues to drop the cat and that will tell you if its an issue also. 

Hope this helps get you in the right direction. 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gosh these bmw's are worse money pits than JDM's! I won't complain about my car anymore 😂
    • I'll just leave this quick tip here after reading your joys of getting the car in the air. It should take no more then 10 minutes to get the car safely up on stands.  So for the front, jack on the tow recovery points (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). This photo is of a R34 GTR, however the process is the same. For the rear, jack under the diff (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the rear subframe or where the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). Which point you use will depend on your stand, pick a nice stable point.  You've probably already read this but it's worth repeating. When jacking up the car or using stands, stay away from the chassis rails/pinch welds. Even the factory jack point, stay away from that too unless using a factory jack. I used those jack points for years without issue until I turned into an old man and bought a QuickJack lol. 
    • And this is where the leak is happening: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7h1vlmg2j5aa7rksvsjc9/IMG_9982.jpeg?rlkey=d3bnpau5f615zmxqmca0llvr7&st=kquvdxvs&dl=0   Apologies but it seems adding an image from a link does not work when the images are in Dropbox. 
    • Here are some pics from the auction: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0   https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0
    • Hi all, From the western suburbs here. Just got my 2000 R34 GTT registered today! Got it imported from Japan through a mate who is doing them and managed to find a decent one. This one has only done 110,000 Km and had no body rust etc. so was very happy. I used to own a 25Gt back in 2015 (ate Ramen noodles for years to save up for it), but unfortunately, it got stolen TEN DAYS after I bought it!! Came back from Uni and the car was missing - cops found it in Springvale a month later with a lot of needles  😒 It was too late by then and I had moved on to a different car (300ZX), and after that one got broken into around 2018, I was in a very bad place and decided I would never buy a car again because it was just pointless!!! ~yeah, I have some very bad mojo~ 🥺 But now, with a stable job and a secure garage, I thought I'd get the R34 4D again but not as a daily! I love the R34s but a GTR is still a bit off my pay grade so settled for the GTT instead.    The first step for me is to get this car serviced and have all fluids, belts and spark plugs changed. I might do the brakes at one point too but atm they are fine, the fluids are what I want changed since this car probably sat in a garage for a long time. I'll then get some coilovers since the suspension needs to be changed anyway (the dust cover kit is disintegrating). I'll also upgrade my car alarm to a Viper system and then look at rims and tyres (I'm a sucker for TE37s - might have enough saved in another 3 years for that).   Today: I was planning to do the oil, coolant, air filter and fuel filter change this week. Started on the oil change today and MY GOD what a pain!! I used to think the 300ZX engine bay was cramped - oh I was so wrong! 😂 I've done the usual services on my cars before so it was not like I was going in blind. I looked up all the forum details about what oils to use, what coolant to use, what points to use to jack the car or place stands etc but I did not expect it to be this hard. Long story short - all I managed to do was the oil and filter change. I think I might end up taking it to a mechanic for a coolant change because my SCA stands and trolley jack just can't get far enough underneath to the cross-member and I don't want to be crushed under my favourite car....yet. Side note: In Dandenong, there used to be a shop that lets you hire their hoists - does anyone know if they have those around? I can't seem to find the Dandenong place anymore. I contacted them off FB almost 6 years ago and I'm not in it now. If anyone know of one, that would save me some time going to a mechanic for the basic services. Oil: Dark and gooey but no metal pieces. Oil Filter: Was a b***h to take off but no red flags Air filter: Yucky! Was black (Smells like fuel which makes me think it may have been running rich? - am I way off?)   Concerns: I have but one concern atm and that is that there was a very small amount of oil leaking where the engine and the transmission connect (Automatic). It may be the rear seal? It's not a massive leak and it does not affect the oil pressures or leak oil all along the driveway. It's been falling into the cover this whole time. I've taken the cover off so I can check the garage floor from time to time.  I also have not seen my engine temperature gauge ever sit at cold and slowly move up to the right spot, but that might be because every time I saw the car today, it was running. I'll check that again tomorrow. ATM it just sits right in the middle. I may just be paranoid but I don't want an overheating engine while my gauges say everything is fine. 🙈 Other than that, I'm very happy with the car! Feels like it's about time I went back to spending my weekends driving or cutting my arm on stupid sh*t in the engine bay.   PS: I will post a pic later on because I underestimated soooo badly today and it was dark by the time I finished! PPS: I broke the two damn plastic pins that hold the intake funnel section to the front bar. This is the piece made to bring cold air to the airbox. The connection to the airbox is fone, but the two clips just broke off! Should I be worried? Anyone else done that? 
×
×
  • Create New...