Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The NZCAS worked nicely. Stock had fair bit of fluctuation up top.  

Lexxi32: This version is one size up. The 537rwkws version on the GTT.  I think its using about 30kws driving the front diff, it would be sitting around 450rwkws ish on 28psi. 

  • Like 1

Got my car tuned at the end of last year, I'm not sure if it's a good or bad result for so little boost.

Stock Rb25det w/ Z32 nistune, Hypergear Atr45sat, 1000cc injectors, blitz return-flow intercooler, splitfire coils, 255 Walbro pump directly wired, xforce 3" dump pipe & cat, apexi 3.5" exhaust, 3" metal intake to stock airbox.

Result was 230kw on 15psi dropping to 13psi.

20201026_095031.jpg.49fb4c69278637f4808bb7ca7fa9677e.jpg

Car was tuned with the 13psi wastegate spring.

Tuner couldn't figure the boost controller out proply and seemed hesitant to run the 18psi spring, he also reckons stock fuel lines are not really up to the task to run around 20psi.

And also noted the fuel pressure differential isolating, and suspected a fuel return issue from reg to tank, not sure if everyone gets this or I have an issue. 

20210225_125648.thumb.jpg.b3620cf354b4cdd97351b99fde7c0eb6.jpg

after x amount of time on the dyno I wasn't sticking around to play.

What do y'all think?

 

 

Edited by dyl33

Thats the usual amount of power seeing with supporting mods and boost given. Need a big FMIC, and possibly an exhaust cut out with a 20psi actuator to hold 20psi. and should see around 280rwkws mark. 

5 hours ago, dyl33 said:

Got my car tuned at the end of last year, I'm not sure if it's a good or bad result for so little boost.

Stock Rb25det w/ Z32 nistune, Hypergear Atr45sat, 1000cc injectors, blitz return-flow intercooler, splitfire coils, 255 Walbro pump directly wired, xforce 3" dump pipe & cat, apexi 3.5" exhaust, 3" metal intake to stock airbox.

Result was 230kw on 15psi dropping to 13psi.

20201026_095031.jpg.49fb4c69278637f4808bb7ca7fa9677e.jpg

Car was tuned with the 13psi wastegate spring.

Tuner couldn't figure the boost controller out proply and seemed hesitant to run the 18psi spring, he also reckons stock fuel lines are not really up to the task to run around 20psi.

And also noted the fuel pressure differential isolating, and suspected a fuel return issue from reg to tank, not sure if everyone gets this or I have an issue. 

20210225_125648.thumb.jpg.b3620cf354b4cdd97351b99fde7c0eb6.jpg

after x amount of time on the dyno I wasn't sticking around to play.

What do y'all think?

 

 

What do the 2 fuel pressure lines represent? Is that a  before and after ?

1 hour ago, hypergear said:

Thats the usual amount of power seeing with supporting mods and boost given. Need a big FMIC, and possibly an exhaust cut out with a 20psi actuator to hold 20psi. and should see around 280rwkws mark. 

Thanks for the reply @hyper-gear yeah I know the intercooler isn't desirable, but ive seen a guy up my way make 280kw with an r34 hiflow turbo on 18psi with the same blitz return intercooler only differance was a link ecu. So I'm thinking maybe I should put the 18psi actuator on and try again.

I'd like to avoid cutting a hole for a proper intercooler at the moment just to avoid any unwanted attention from the police, but it might be on the cards in the future.

Have you had any issues with stock fuel lines not being up to the task of running 20psi? because you run a lot of boost in your cars? Do you have stock fuel lines?

 

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

What do the 2 fuel pressure lines represent? Is that a  before and after ?

Im not to sure ben, I'm not that clued up on the ins and outs of fuel pressure and tuning.

He just said the fuel pressure differentials isolating and suspected a restriction between the reg and tank.

Was hoping it made some sense to you guys.

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This won't make a difference in power.

Yeah it shouldn't, I reckon part of my result was due to him not being able to use the boost controller properly. 

Do you still run factory fuel lines in your car?

 

Seeing as nissansilvia is dead, thought I would ask here..

ATR28G2 or ATR28SS1.5 for a standard sr20? Has poncams, 740cc injectors, exhaust, intercooler, nistune etc, currently using a t28 at around 260hp. Looking for 300+hp, and as responsive as possible as its mostly a street car. Thanks!

5 hours ago, dyl33 said:

Do you still run factory fuel lines in your car?

 

Not anymore since installing a surge tank, but before running 1.7bar of boost, a single 450Lph Walbro, I was doing 372kW at the tread.

However in saying that, I did have fuel return issues. Even with the FPR fully wound out, I would still get 2 bar of fuel pressure. Back then I wasn't running a fuel pressure sensor so can't tell you if there were issues with fuel pulsation - which I suspect was probable due to weird lean spots in my fuel map.

Now I use both lines (OEM feed and return) as only a return and fuel is fed to the rail via a 8AN.

6 hours ago, sliderrr said:

Seeing as nissansilvia is dead, thought I would ask here..

ATR28G2 or ATR28SS1.5 for a standard sr20? Has poncams, 740cc injectors, exhaust, intercooler, nistune etc, currently using a t28 at around 260hp. Looking for 300+hp, and as responsive as possible as its mostly a street car. Thanks!

ATR28G2 with a BB upgrade in T2 .64 internally gated would be something nice to make up to 350rwhp with excellent response. 

On 22/02/2021 at 5:27 PM, hypergear said:

Thanks for the tip. Yes I though it might be the case, so I've added a cut out on the front pipe. Highly recommended for power hunting. 

spacer.png

spacer.png

 

What’s the theory behind this? Why not put a real exhaust on it that isn’t restrictive/Japanese junk and not the noise?

There is no reason why a 3.5-4 inch exhaust can be reasonably quiet provided that you get quality mufflers!

Complexity for no reason apart from not sorting the setup out properly from the beginning!

This shouldn’t be “the thing to do”!

why create noise and unnecessary attention to already “on the radar car’s”? SHUT THEM UP!

 

  • Like 3

I agree with the Pig. Build it the right size with quality muffs and there shouldn't be an issue. 

Something the pig didn't point out is the mess this shit leaves under your car. These things are starting to become quite valuable too so having it caked with exhaust soot and oily shit makes it a nightmare anytime you wanna work underneath the thing too.

This kinda thing devalues your car and is what draws the police's attention to our cars with this kinda rubbish and unnecessary noise. 

Testing the cut out the GTT made 17kws on 421rwkws with no other mods.  I've had cars with 3.5 and 4 inches exhaust, its a struggle for room under the car fitting the right mufflers. The cut out doesn't open till 20psi, Car now is stockish quite on cruise and doesn't restrict performance.    

  • 4 weeks later...

Some more time in prototyping, using the same set of housings but different wheel profile, I've managed to gain 250RPM RPM of better response while no lose in power, it is a pretty good out come consider no wheel size changes. I'll make custom housings next and see if that could improve response further. 

right1.jpg

enginebay.jpg

Red is Current ATR45SS-1 and Blue is prototype.

power.jpg

 

boost.jpg

 

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Further development on the T4 printed turbo on Rb26. This prototype made a pretty big differences, peek 377awkws while making 20psi by 3500RPM and 220rwkws @ 4000RPM. Will doing few more things and hopefully seeing 420awkws+ without loosing response. 

carondyno2.jpg

 

power.jpg

boost.jpg

 

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...