Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[Room42]

lilcrash. You gotta sort out your boost control. You are jumping the gun. Save yourself looking like foghorn leghorn and fix it. Then when you have exhausted (no pun intended) every possibility, pm hypergear or call them. Dont call people out in public. Chill out and have a cigar.

[hypergear]

MODS - ATR43 SS-1, JJR 3" BELL MOUTH DUMP, SINGLE CELL CAT, HKS HI POWER CAT BACK, JJR TURN FLOW INTERCOOLER, SPLITFIRE COIL PACKS, K&N PANEL FILTER, 3" STEEL INTAKE PIPE, TURBOSMART TYPE 3 PLUMB BACK BLOW OFF VALVE, WALBRO GSS-342, TURBOSMART BOOST T.

Do plug the gauge pre and after the cooler, and check for boost drops.

More details are in page 83:

[lilcrash]

All been tested, there is a 1-2psi drop across the core.

Next excuse!?????

[hypergear]

All been tested, there is a 1-2psi drop across the core.

How was it tested? this should be the boost curve with the SS1

[GTScotT]

Stao - do you still use the adjustable wastegate disc (wastegate controller) on these turbos? Maybe it could be adjusted so he can remove the boost controller and run a stable boost?

To be clear about my opinion. Its making more than enough power for 14 pounds, especially through an AWD stagea. This turbo is tried and tested for how much boost it will run and how it will drop off. You can fudge the numbers but you CANNOT fudge the boost that it runs.

Piss that boost tee off and make sure you dont have any problems with the car, maybe Stao can advise you any adjustment methods you could use to mediate the problem.

Definitely a +1 for the turbo itself isnt the problem.

[zebra]

Isnt the SS1 only rated to 350hp or so.

So its smaller than a GT-RS which makes a best of around 260krws you are making 230awks with a smaller turbo

So thinking about that ....WTF are you whinging about?

Seems like the turbo is giving all it can give and thats why its dropping off

[hypergear]

I'm interested in sorting out the problem. Manual boost controller should be fine. I haven't had issues with that dropping off boost in both of mine cars. Also that SS1 had 2x actuators. I'm wondering if the 7psi was installed during the run. That one won't hold boost.

Also looking at Harey's final run:

Test car's final run:

and normal r33's final run:

The final boost reading at 7000rpms should be around 17psi.

[lilcrash]

Il upload a dyno sheet. But the dyno run was without a boost t, the t was only used to try to fix it and it didn't work. The actuator that is fitted is the one that was fitted when I received it. Pretty sure you said its the high pressure one.

We used 2 identical boost gauges. One on each side of the cooler.

[itshimdazza]

Thanks mate,

Was this with the latest SS1PU or another model?

Yes, ATR43SSPU.

Just picked up the 20PSI actuator off Stao today and my coilpack & plugs arrived as well ,Just need to install them then get the tune redone. I will do away with the Dual Stage Boost Controller alltogether now and use my right foot as the boost controller...

(Really should of saved the cash & done this from the start, but hey I have now learned...)

Dazza

[Rolls]

Il upload a dyno sheet. But the dyno run was without a boost t, the t was only used to try to fix it and it didn't work. The actuator that is fitted is the one that was fitted when I received it. Pretty sure you said its the high pressure one.

We used 2 identical boost gauges. One on each side of the cooler.

Can you confirm there is no boost leak and no exhaust leak? A simple pressure test of the intake system and listening for noises etc should be sufficient, with the exhaust check for signs of the turbo gasket leaking or snapped studs.

It is almost certainly not the turbo, I don't see what could fail with the turbo to cause boost to drop off, perhaps a leaking gasket that is about it.

Edited September 23, 2011 by Rolls

[Hanaldo]

I will blame him. The turbo has a 19psi actuator on it that he recommended and we only put the boost control on to try to keep the boost up. Without a boost control it does exactly the same thing. That power figure was without the boost t. From the day I received the turbo I told him it wouldnt work and he has repeatedly said no it's fine. Obviously it is not fine. If it was a boost control issue do you think I would be ranting about him.

All been tested, there is a 1-2psi drop across the core.

Next excuse!?????

Mate you need to settle down. I get that you're annoyed, but a sharp tongue and snappy replies to people who are trying to help you is not going to get you anywhere. There's plenty of people here including myself who are using a Hypergear turbo without issue and are happy with the results, what do you think Stao has deliberately sabotaged your turbo or something?

Your symptoms do not point to any issues with the turbo, so get it out of your head that this is the only possibility. Start with the cheapest options and work your way from there.

[lilcrash]

to everyone, im sorry for mouthing off but i was rather pissed off, i had just gotten home and there is a few problems i need rectified and seeing as the tuner wont ever answer their phone i took it all out on here.

anyway if anyone has any ideas it would be appreciated. here is the dyno sheet. i dont know how to use my scanner so here is a photo.

[hypergear]

Not getting the usual amount of boost there.

If you are running a T boost controller means its reducing the vacuum pressure from the actuator.

There are only 2x things that could happen.

On turbo side:

Actuator too soft, its got forced open by exhaust manifold pressure.

Compressor wheel too small it’s straggling to feed the engine at given boost level.

Those have been tested, plus you are saying its spiking boost, so they are not to be the cases.

Restriction stopping turbo from sucking in or dispatching air.

Restriction on intake side limits amount of air available. That causes boost drop

Exhaust restriction causes high exhaust manifold pressure and slows down shaft speed.

I would plug the MAP logging analyzer from the dyno into the out let of the turbo for a run, then do the same from the inlet manifold (not the end tanks of the cooler).

If they are identical, I would drop my exhaust from the cat, and do another run.

I can swap you with an even stronger actuator if you think its a actuation case, and give you data from Nistune and Adaptronic if you wish to compare timing and fuel logs.

[lilcrash]

as far as i know that dyno sheet is without a boost control as it didnt do anything. im going to go buy a few things tommorrow and do some more testing as im not 100% that all issues were looked into.

[DJSimmo]

I FEEL THAT THIS RESPONSE REQUIRES CAPITALS SO HERE GOES.

STAO/HYPERGEAR YOU HAVE SOME F**KING EXPLAINING TO DO

JUST GOT MY CAR DYNO TUNED - 306HP ON 14 PSI :@:@:@:@:@:@:@:@:@:@

MODS - ATR43 SS-1, JJR 3" BELL MOUTH DUMP, SINGLE CELL CAT, HKS HI POWER CAT BACK, JJR TURN FLOW INTERCOOLER, SPLITFIRE COIL PACKS, K&N PANEL FILTER, 3" STEEL INTAKE PIPE, TURBOSMART TYPE 3 PLUMB BACK BLOW OFF VALVE, WALBRO GSS-342, TURBOSMART BOOST T.

NO MATTER WHAT THE TUNER DID WITH THE BOOST CONTROL IT WOULD SPIKE TO 20 PSI THEN HOLD 14 PSI TO RED LINE.

if you have ruled out the intercooler and boost T i would be looking at an intake restriction. are you running the factory air box with snorkel?

have you got any pics of the 3" steel intake pipe? if its using silicon joiners could they be sucking in?

also could the blow off valve be opening under boost pressure? soft spring? have you tried removing it and putting a blank off plate over it?

also do a pressure/leak down test on your intercooler piping as it is very easy to miss a leak that will make a huge difference.

hope this helps and keeps you on the ball

[Tangles]

definitely try a stronger actuator first. Looks like its opening up the 'flap in the exhaust housing resulting in massive loss of boost. 300Hp @14psi seems ok, get it to hold the flap closed for a longer period of time and you'll see a happier result. The power of hypergear turbos is excellent around the 19-21psi mark. There is an issue to be sorted out & personally I wouldn't be blaming the turbo itself at this stage.

Good luck with finding where the pressure leakage is.

One last query - is your engine compression healthy?

[lilcrash]

yer im still running the stcok airbox with a k&n panel filter, my intake is a 3inch rubber 7mm thick rubber truck intercooler bend with a 45 degree steel bend that touches the afm with a silcon joiner joining the 2. my blow off valve is one of the things to try tommorow as i just read they are only rated to 18psi.

edit, tangles response, yer i think that may be the root off my problem. as far as i know the compression is ok but i havnt tested it since i before the turbo blew a few months ago

thanks for the suggestions

Edited September 23, 2011 by lilcrash

[Tangles]

could even be a split line somewhere.... I know its a headache but it isn't dropping pressure for the hell of it (in my opinion).

[lilcrash]

yeah im goin to have a dig around in the morning and see what i can find, there has to be something im not considering.

[hypergear]

Try to pre-load the actuator abit more, also noticed your are running sealed stock air box with lead on. Put a pod filter on it, or remove the led of the air box and filter. Give it in 4th on free way and monitor the boost drop. I think the sealed stock air box with the filter is the problem.

Any way, Got some results from a ATR43G3 customer (Mr Abe) now running E85 with best run of 347rwkws:

He has brought it back for the FNT turbine upgrade. Its on full stock engine and factory exhaust manifold internally gated. Looks it needs a better boost controller, external gate would be excellent.

The tune is a little bit retard, there are heaps more power left in it. How ever he's doesn't want any more .