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Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

hypergear

By hypergear,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

If you have a hose kinking, a Unicoil might stop it? Most Auto Shops should have them.

Yeh tried a unicoil, problem is you then don't have enough space on the hose to get a hose clamp on.

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Lithium
Lithium

I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it

hypergear
hypergear

The ATR28SS15 would be a perfect turbo for your application. I didn't look into some thing even smaller as it doesn't make that much of a difference in response but did loses quite a lot of power. I'

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ lol... maybe I'll use a 3" intake pipe and add in more bends.. that usually gets the suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutuuututuutut going LOL. Anyhow, some real world facts to back up the results.. errbody likes ti

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Yeh tried a unicoil, problem is you then don't have enough space on the hose to get a hose clamp on.

insert copper pipe into your oil line and bend it as you need. The bends I have are impossible without kinks, my dad rigged this up for me its fair awesome.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

insert copper pipe into your oil line and bend it as you need. The bends I have are impossible without kinks, my dad rigged this up for me its fair awesome.

Would have worked, but it's another cost.

To be honest I think the best way is to get a custom braided line made up. No problems, perfect fit, easy. Expensive, but by the time you get to this stage you will be ready to sell your mother to get the farken thing finished :P

copycutter Experienced

copycutter

Posted
Posted

Hey Sarge, I had a look at your on road video for SS2 spool up in 2nd from back near page 100. It looks pretty good, and from Stao's dyno chart on it looks like full boost around 3700 for a higher gear.

What do you find that one like to live with? Have you wished it was more responsive or more "top endy"at all? How has it been with this newest actuator you've been running?

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Hey Sarge, I had a look at your on road video for SS2 spool up in 2nd from back near page 100. It looks pretty good, and from Stao's dyno chart on it looks like full boost around 3700 for a higher gear.

What do you find that one like to live with? Have you wished it was more responsive or more "top endy"at all? How has it been with this newest actuator you've been running?

My old skyline had a high flowed turbo with 2835 internals. It was mega responsive and made really nice power. This is certainly not as responsive but damn its soooooo enjoyable you live with it. When it comes on hard and you get some nice smooth quick shifts, the power does not stop. That video shows you I think 3rd gear to 6krpm. Had I dropped it in second it would take a second or two to be in full song, but that video was demonstrating the car building boost from low gear, and its pretty good. You can feel first gear runs out of oomph up top, but thats only natural, its not running out, your tires are just spinning so you lose that push in your chair feeling, so what I do is generally shift earlier, around 5500rpm rather than 7krpm. This also helps prevent wheel spin when entering 2nd. Definitely alot better with the new actuator and tune. I was actually very happy with the tune on the soft actuator and didn't intend to go any higher but my tuner said you may as well because the potential for power is definitely there so I did.

With better boost control I think the power line will hold all the way to red line, you can see it tips over abit up top where boost starts to fall. Then you can see the low boost line it holds and keeps going up beyond red line because boost is steady.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

This is certainly not as responsive but damn its soooooo enjoyable you live with it.

This is how it is with my turbo at the moment. I'm only getting full boost by 5000rpm, but my god it's a fun 2000rpm :P

Need to work out my midrange issues glare.gif

copycutter Experienced

copycutter

Posted
Posted

You know what the responsiveness difference is between your turbos and say the SS1PU or whichever is next down in the "SS" range?

It sounds like yours has similar come on to the G3 which flows more. I thought all the SS ones favoured punch over top end hit.

rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

man that really is waaaay too laggy - waiting till 5k rpm to get full boost, but I guess its got something to do with your engine conversion. why not turn the car back to stock, sell it and buy a proper GT-T and work from there?

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

man that really is waaaay too laggy - waiting till 5k rpm to get full boost, but I guess its got something to do with your engine conversion.

NA motor will have even LESS lag.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Oh my motors not NA. I imported a smashed GTT from Japan and transplanted everything.

Problem is there is no difference between my car and a 'proper' GTT. It has everything, it was all literally taken straight out of a GTT and put into my car. Everything. The issue is what we wired up and what we didn't. Things like traction control which I never wanted and never knew could cause issues like this. So I need to figure out what it is exactly that is upsetting the ECU and how it can be fixed.

Worst case scenario I have to ditch the NIStune and get something like the ViPEC plug-in.

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

Yeh tried a unicoil, problem is you then don't have enough space on the hose to get a hose clamp on.

ah, didn't think about the length.. are you using the standard metal long angled drain pipe off the turbo base? If so could you just use a unicoil with the other type of turbo fitting that is just a small pipe fitting?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

ah, didn't think about the length.. are you using the standard metal long angled drain pipe off the turbo base? If so could you just use a unicoil with the other type of turbo fitting that is just a small pipe fitting?

Yes, well we ended up just cutting the hard pipe about 2 inches from the bottom and then used two pieces of short length hose with the off-cut hard pipe in between them. The standard rubber return hose was only JUST too short, like I could get it on to both the turbo hard pipe and the sump return, but it was only just on there so wasn't enough room for a hose clamp. So only needed to be extended a little bit.

I'm not really happy with how we fixed it, it's a bit back-yardish so I'll be getting a custom braided line with fittings made up to replace it soon. When it comes to oil and hotness, I don't want to be messing around with potentially dodgy connections.

copycutter Experienced

copycutter

Posted
Posted

I was going to join Sarge in the SS2 crew but the castings aren't available til February, and I'm too antsy in the pantsy with Xmas spending spirit so I'm in the G3 brigade instead.

I'll throw some results up when it's all together :thumbsup:

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Nah i plan on using nuts bolts and glue

Self tappers and a cordless > zip ties and duct tape > nuts bolts glue.

I also have an RB25 head (DET) that has been VCT deleted to suit RB30 block, has also had exhaust valves retouched. Is a fairly bare head. I will sell this if anyone else wants to venture down this path (or if you need a spare Crans)

I also have an S2 RB30 block yet the crank has gone walkabout (unsure where it is and needs oversized bearings). Has the factory line bolt holts etc for turbo.

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