Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I mean good on him for being cautious if he isn't familiar, but you can tell him that hundreds of people have done it safely, just avoid detonation, keep it cool and it will be fine. A good intercooler is extremely important for higher running boost safely.

before boosting the f**k out of it, i'd compression test a motor to get a idea on its health, but thats just me , plenty have boosted the f**k out of them, just as many have blown the bottom ends out of them.....

cheers

darren

bad tuning good tuning whatever, darren is right a sloppy motor will let go once you lean on it

boost is just the indicator for how hard you are leaning on it in this case

and Ron, i believe the difference between a 255kw and 279kw SS1PU would be fairly small.. minor difference at the end of the strip and mostly the same for the first 150kph.

i also think a SS1PU at 255kw will blitz a G3 at 270. Kapish?

please take some interest in and do some reading on the HKS GTRS... see what people think of the staple 250kw turbo. my understanding is that it comes on that early and snappy that acceleration will eat the 300kw setups pre 200kph

almost always due to bad tuning

I think people are forgetting how many kms are on these motors now...I will give you a example..I have been a member on supraforums for 13yrs, I look every week , stock bottom end started of taking 600 rwhp with 66mm setups, then they went 72mm, 74mm 76m Q trims and the numbers went up, then 42's with 74, 76 S trims etc, 900rwhp no blowups. But in th last couple of yrs the the average for a stock bottom end has been drastically lowered as they are starting to put on reasonable mileage, and aren't as strong anymore..or it could be people have just started bad tuning now.....

Its only the one owner never driven ones, REALLY low mileage that people are getting hold of , compety stock standard and then going large in the setup and making ridiclious numbers still.

Fark loads have taking a dump And the average Rb25 had 15 times the mileage these things have on them..plus a lot of people ideas of maintenance are different, theres so many shitbox skylines around that aren;t looked after its not funny, i woudn't recommend giving one of them 20+psi.. without a comp test.

Unless your idea of a good saturday is removing a smelly old ringland busted Rb25.

cheers

darren

MVC-001F.JPG

^^

Above turbo were made for a VW 4S dealer in China. Got some feedbacks from them today. This turbo was fitted to a 01 Model 1.8LT Auto Bora. They were measuring 0~100 acceleration using D-box.

The 0~100KM acceleration time from a factory was 10.5 sec

ATR28G1 high flowed turbo and every thing else factory, the 0~100KM acceleration time was 9.4 sec with plenty of wheel spin.

Its pretty interesting that we are compares RPM vs Power vs Boost, probably due to lack of skilled modifier and tuners, all they are interested is in 0~100km acceleration time. How ever that was a pretty good start. :turned:

Its pretty interesting that we are compares RPM vs Power vs Boost, probably due to lack of skilled modifier and tuners, all they are interested is in 0~100km acceleration time. How ever that was a pretty good start. :turned:

Well it sounds like they didnt get the ecu tuned to suit and if I didnt have to get the ecu tuned I wouldnt get a dyno done either. It is interesting though as for a street car 0-100 should be very important. I know some people were discussing times a while back.

Wheelspin for a 9.4 second 0-100??? Its a good improvement from 10.5 especially with so little changes but its hardly fast lol

i woudn't recommend giving one of them 20+psi.. without a comp test.

Unless your idea of a good saturday is removing a smelly old ringland busted Rb25.

By all means compression test the engine before modifying any car.

I am curious what difference you think running 18psi vs 21psi will make. If the car is kept away from det how is the ringland going to fail?

12psi with det will fubar it as easily as 18psi.

After a comp test, what is a good level of compression to be running high boost on these motors? My motor tested at 155 - 160 on all cylinders, I run 17psi through it and 20 as high boost.

The head gasket comment by the tuner is rubbish, the standard nissan head gasket has been proven to huge power with aftermarket engine builds. Lots of tuners prefer them over aftermarktet metal ones.

I understand if your tuner is worried about the standard engine overall. Does he have much experience with skylines? A lot of tuners that dont are hesitant to boost it too high as they are not aware of how strong they are.

Give it hell as it is for a few months and then take it back and demand the boost be raised :)

His big thing was that he hasn't had any positive experiences come from running more boost than that on an RB ( fear of doing a ring or another adverse problem i don't know about), The plan is to drive it around like it is now (340hp atw) and then when i do my 100k service in 9000k's time I'll retune for 20 psi.

Edited by RandomHero83

His big thing was that he hasn't had any positive experiences come from running more boost than that on an RB ( fear of doing a ring or another adverse problem i don't know about), The plan is to drive it around like it is now (340hp atw) and then when i do my 100k service in 9000k's time I'll retune for 20 psi.

Silly move. I done my 100k service 10kkm before it. Pay for tune, major service, then pay for tune again...

155 means it is in great condition

What about 180?? I comp tested my motor a few months ago and got between 180-182 across all six. It's higher than any other result I've seen on here... Was worried about possibly carbon build up increasing the compression?

Varies depending on a lot of factors, as long as its consistent it doesn't really matter, I would only worry if it read really low like 100, even then I had an rb20 that consistently read 110 across all six, burnt a tiny bit of oil but wasn't down on power at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...