Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But then it would be boring..? :O

Sif, im sure a 220kw R33 is a pretty fun car.

Put it this way, it leaves a lot to be 'driven' rather than to be 'feared'.

how much to highflow a s15 turbo and what could be expected out of it? i did a read but would like to hear first hand and yes its for a sr

Can high flow that to some thing similar to a 2860 or 71 with good response and drivability. Can also high flow them in to G3 specifications which one member in NS made 290rwkws on pump 98 with, how ever its bit laggy for a SR20det.

Bit update on turbine designs, I'm working on another model based on .82 G3s by keeping combustion circulating longer inside the turbine housing before final exist, hopefully speeding up turbine wheel at higher rpm without increasing combustion pressure. If every thing works according to plan this method would deliver even better ending result then the current fnt setup.

Tsk tsk...you really should know better dave...looks like i gave you too much credit.....

trying to see your point but i'm guessing you don't have one :).

I think Ron may have gotten confused, because Birds said he was getting a SS1PU but then later he said hows my high flow going :D

I was slightly confused too

If I'm correct in my guessing, I'm getting the internals of an ATR43 SS1PU put into the standard turbo...so it will have the standard comp housing bored out to suit and look factory, but the aftermarket rear housing with FNT.

If I'm correct in my guessing, I'm getting the internals of an ATR43 SS1PU put into the standard turbo...so it will have the standard comp housing bored out to suit and look factory, but the aftermarket rear housing with FNT.

So will this make bit less power than ss1PU but with bit better response?

Can high flow that to some thing similar to a 2860 or 71 with good response and drivability. Can also high flow them in to G3 specifications which one member in NS made 290rwkws on pump 98 with, how ever its bit laggy for a SR20det.

Bit update on turbine designs, I'm working on another model based on .82 G3s by keeping combustion circulating longer inside the turbine housing before final exist, hopefully speeding up turbine wheel at higher rpm without increasing combustion pressure. If every thing works according to plan this method would deliver even better ending result then the current fnt setup.

What Is the spool point 4200 for 290 I would be happy with 4500 kinda have to expect that type of thing

So will this make bit less power than ss1PU but with bit better response?

Should be much the same, maybe a little less...I don't think the ATR43 comp housing is much bigger than the standard comp housing, if at all. I just wanted a more factory look so got Stao to high flow the factory comp. The rear housing is the same as the ATR43 so this is why it should produce similar results.

Apparently my turbo is now ready so I'll pick it up, install next weekend and get it tuned soon after.

OK, dont get confused..... Stao can highflow your turbo, its called a highflow...

Stao also does what he calls a PU highflow, which is pretty much the same as your regular highflow but stao puts a bigger rear housing on it.

The rear housing is similar to whats on the G3... But it will retain your stock front compressor housing. I believe it comfortably maxed out at 290 or so.

Ahh how nice it would be to start back at a stock skyline.. Simple highflow, cooler, zaust, tune. How nice it would be :rolleyes:

Whats the difference between the PU hi-flow and the G3?, i actually thought they where exactly the same except the the G3 comp cover is a big GT30-35 .70 one instead of standard.

But then i don't actually know and have never asked..lol

cheers

darren

Can someone correct/ clarify me:

Hypergear equivalent or closest match to:

Kando T67 = G3?

GT3076R = Kando TD06SL2 20G(10cm) = SS2 or G3?

GT3071R = SS1PU

R34 Hiflow / GCG hiflow = SS1

Can someone correct/ clarify me:

Hypergear equivalent or closest match to:

Kando T67 = G3?

GT3076R = Kando TD06SL2 20G(10cm) = SS2 or G3?

GT3071R = SS1PU

R34 Hiflow / GCG hiflow = SS1

Very gross comparisons.. I dont even want to do this but here goes:

T67 = 35R (will be similar in power on the average setup, on a well built setup you can expect more power from the 35r but more response from t67)

3076 = G3 (G3 will be laggier)

3071 = G2 (3071 may make more power)

2835 = SL2-20g/SS1PU (2835 should be laggier, final output about the same)

GCG/GTRS = SS1 (the staple 240kw products)

Please pick something now and but it lol

Very gross comparisons.. I dont even want to do this but here goes:

T67 = 35R (will be similar in power on the average setup, on a well built setup you can expect more power from the 35r but more response from t67)

3076 = G3 (G3 will be laggier)

3071 = G2 (3071 may make more power)

2835 = SL2-20g/SS1PU (2835 should be laggier, final output about the same)

GCG/GTRS = SS1 (the staple 240kw products)

Please pick something now and but it lol

Thanks man, interesting how they compare, where would you put the ss2 btw??

I would put the SS2 with the 3076. Both turbo's capable of 300rwkw, with the SS2 coming to full boost by about 3500, tad earlier than the 3076. I would have compared the G3 more to the GT35 turbo, it has potential of about 350rwkw and it won't make full power until about 4krpm...

The GT35 on an Rb25 motor is capable of about 450hp to 500hp. The G3 sits around there 450hp and with a bigger motor a little more. Its not a direct line but I certainly would not compare it to a 3076.

I would put the SS2 with the 3076. Both turbo's capable of 300rwkw, with the SS2 coming to full boost by about 3500, tad earlier than the 3076. I would have compared the G3 more to the GT35 turbo, it has potential of about 350rwkw and it won't make full power until about 4krpm...

Thats what I thought, as per my original post, ie-

ss2 = GT3076

T67 = G3

I would put the SS2 with the 3076. Both turbo's capable of 300rwkw, with the SS2 coming to full boost by about 3500, tad earlier than the 3076. I would have compared the G3 more to the GT35 turbo, it has potential of about 350rwkw and it won't make full power until about 4krpm...

Hey Sarge did u get your missing kilowatts after you fixed your intake pipe?? How much power u at now?

any reviews on the 50mm hyper-gear gates you sell?

The Silvia you see on youtube has one fitted and running for the past 5 years. I occationally uses them on the test car, works fine. Internal wise I've machined them to run on dual springs fully adjustable.

Size wise G3 is one trim larger then a 3076 with 2mms bigger in comp inducer and turbine exducer. I think might also be an slightly bigger turbo then a T67.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...