Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that r33 turbo looks crazy, what size is the inlet on it now?

What are you aiming for rwkw wise with this version of hi flow?

Edited by Mitcho_7

I'm aiming to crack 300rwkws with a stock 21U R33 housings on pump 98. It felt abit too responsive as some thing maxing 300rwkws, can't wait to see how it goes once tuned.

Its a brae manifold. a duplication of my ebay SS manifold that cracked using steel pipe. its apparantly an expansive one time job that I haven't fully evaluate it yet.

I've also got an HKS low mount cast manifold fully surfaced with T3x bolt pattern. comes with HKS 38mm gate for $1200. PM if interested

I'm aiming to crack 300rwkws with a stock 21U R33 housings on pump 98. It felt abit too responsive as some thing maxing 300rwkws, can't wait to see how it goes once tuned.

Its a brae manifold. a duplication of my ebay SS manifold that cracked using steel pipe. its apparantly an expansive one time job that I haven't fully evaluate it yet.

I've also got an HKS low mount cast manifold fully surfaced with T3x bolt pattern. comes with HKS 38mm gate for $1200. PM if interested

Isnt 300rwkw on stock R33 housing going to cause the turbo to be running extra hot most of the time due to its tiny size and max flow squeezed out of it??

That can be compensated by machining out the internals of the factory turbine housing making a larger blow tunnel while using an extra large turbine wheel to compensate. Not sure to what extend thou.

Ive been away since the start of this year so did not have time to troubleshoot my lack of power and finish the tune with my SS1PU. Finally back home and having the car sorted out tomorrow. With some luck I hope it wont be too hard to work out the power loss issue before completing the tune.

Has anyone finished their SS1PU tunes and got final results in the last two months? Flicked through the thread but didnt see any.

Edit : Found one in the dyno results thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__6189807

Any more? ;)

Another update with the G3's rear housing. This re-makes OEM dump flange from the G3. enables better turbine flow, and increase the boost to power ratio.

adaptor.jpg

This flange can be removed without removing the turbo. I'm happy to have above mod update all current G3 and G4 .84 units free of charge regardless how old it is, and good time to do the fnt mod for 2010 and earlier units. PM for details.

Its got larger opening area then the older model, how ever that would be the absolute of what can be fitted based on stock oem dump pattern. I've managed to get couple made last weekend, I can do it on exchange bases, as you can have the old one send back after the newer one is received. Its just 5bolt on the rear housing. pretty easy to de-tach. best to have it installed if the turbo is not yet fitted.

Edit: sorry I must need the original adaptor to work with as the wastegate wholes are individually drilled to suit the disc. will take 1 working day to have it complete.

Ive been away since the start of this year so did not have time to troubleshoot my lack of power and finish the tune with my SS1PU. Finally back home and having the car sorted out tomorrow. With some luck I hope it wont be too hard to work out the power loss issue before completing the tune.

Has anyone finished their SS1PU tunes and got final results in the last two months? Flicked through the thread but didnt see any.

Edit : Found one in the dyno results thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__6189807

Any more? ;)

Won't be much help to you at the moment, but I'm getting mine installed next Wednesday and assuming that all goes to plan, tuning as soon as I can book it in. Will definintely post results in here.

My SS1PU should be here by Friday!

My Nistune chip installed by next week

My Injectors early next week

Things are finally coming together and then I will post results.

Wouldnt mind seeing some good results

Ive been away since the start of this year so did not have time to troubleshoot my lack of power and finish the tune with my SS1PU. Finally back home and having the car sorted out tomorrow. With some luck I hope it wont be too hard to work out the power loss issue before completing the tune.

Has anyone finished their SS1PU tunes and got final results in the last two months? Flicked through the thread but didnt see any.

Edit : Found one in the dyno results thread:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6189807

Any more? ;)

Here you go.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/390356-for-sale-r33-gts25t-series-2/page__p__6227458#entry6227458

My SS1PU should be here by Friday!

My Nistune chip installed by next week

My Injectors early next week

Things are finally coming together and then I will post results.

Wouldnt mind seeing some good results

What power are you hoping to get?

Why is the new G3 more popular with u guys than the SS2, the SS2 has slightly more area under the curve (response) for a similar peak power output of approx 300-320rwkws.

I understand the G3 might have a tad more power/ flow potential being bigger? And of course its cheaper. Is that the reason? I seriously see the SS2 as a better turbo with the same power goal. Would compare it with a GT3076 /0.82

I went with the G3 because it makes more torque at each rpm increment than the SS2, and it makes more power under the curve (don't just look at boost or response here, the G3 is making more power everywhere than the SS2). The SS2 only catches up in the higher rpm to make the same power, the G3 beats it everywhere else, even if it's only just.

On Stao's results anyway, I haven't got those results yet.

Edited by Hanaldo

SS2 has better drivability and response. How ever working in restrictive factory setup larger housings definitely helps getting the power goal lot easier with better consistency.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...