Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whilst I don't disagree with your statement, what I meant by "better" is feeling smoother and more effortless. The car may actually be faster at the same boost, but I couldn't really tell this from the feel...I'd have to do some timing tests.

The psychological feeling that your foot is only at half throttle, producing the boost that normally appears at full throttle, is certainly nice.

. I take it you're running an SS1PU, siks?

Yep, normal SS1PU

7psi on stock turbo doesn't = 7psi on this turbo which is why it feels so much better. it is pumping a lot more air.

This is true with the SS1PU compared to stock - I noticed on the freeway in 5th gear more than anything - light throttle and 10psi gives you better acceleration than flooring it on 10psi with the stock turbo.

Holy hell im excited to install this bad boy!

Any fitmeant issues?

Also where did you get your gaskets from?

I didn't fit it, OTR did the installation for $450, which included replacing all exhaust manifold studs. There were some broken studs, so I'm glad I didn't screw around with the install myself. As far as I can see, the only fitment issue they would have had, is that my whole exhaust now sits about 1 inch further back, because Stao's dump flange sits closer to the firewall than the standard dump flange. They didn't modify the exhaust though, and my tail pipes come further out the rear, so the whole system must have had enough slack in it. According to Stao, all you have to do with the standard exhaust system is remove the gearbox mounted exhaust bracket. I'd previously removed this part and my exhaust is custom made, so not applicable.

Exhaust manifold gasket was genuine Nissan, the rest were "permaseal" that I got on eBay (don't get the cheap eBay ones, they are shit).

Cheers for the info birds

I'm going to have a shot at installing it myself if I fail then I'll go to an exhaust shop or similar.

let that guy in the chopper install it for ya Kasko ! ! He looks up to the task....pinch.gif

It always scared me, the thought of upgrading my turbo and losing too much of the factory response / daily drivability. If you have these concerns, get this turbo. What little response I have lost, translates to a better daily drive all round

haha,

Oh how concerns of lost response quickly fade when the boost hits ya.

haha,

Oh how concerns of lost response quickly fade when the boost hits ya.

Agreed. Honestly, most people I have met (in person) who are concerned with stock response blah blah have never been in a laggier but fast car.. once they experience that they forget about off boost and at low rpm issues.

Same with with NA is best crowd - ive lost count of how many of those people i have taken for a ride after which they shut up about NA and suddenly want to buy a new turbo car lol

glade to know every thing's going well.

This might be off skyline topics but any one know any good ecus or perferred plugin ecus or flash software that I can run with a VW Golf GTI 2L turbo DSG motor? Got a offer to develop bigger bolton turbo for that car but its totally new to me. cheers.

Also I will be starting some evaluation on externally gated turbo combinations, and will be able to supply those at a very reasonable price including some of the popular TD06 and T67 combinations. Possibly with billet wheel and ceramic roller centers.

God I can't wait for my tune, this turbo is begging to be unleashed! So much self control required :(

It would be interesting once you get your car tuned to drive back to back against Ric's GT3071r 280rwkw car.

Should be a very good comparison :thumbsup:

Agreed. Honestly, most people I have met (in person) who are concerned with stock response blah blah have never been in a laggier but fast car.. once they experience that they forget about off boost and at low rpm issues.

Same with with NA is best crowd - ive lost count of how many of those people i have taken for a ride after which they shut up about NA and suddenly want to buy a new turbo car lol

There are extremes of it though. When I drove Stao's R33 I didn't like the lag at all, it totally nullified the awesomeness of 300rwkw+ in the top end. Each to their own though - I like a car that can move through the traffic gaps quickly or rolling drag without dropping down a gear. The SS1PU, so far seems like a very good balance between a boost machine and a commuter.

It would be interesting once you get your car tuned to drive back to back against Ric's GT3071r 280rwkw car.

Should be a very good comparison :thumbsup:

Will be doing this for sure! I'll also be heading down the E-flex path after I'm done with the PULP tune, has anyone done this with the SS1PU yet? Will be interesting to see what she is capable of.

Pulled out everything today and will be fitting the PU tomorrow. Can you believe my dump pipe bolts were able to be unscrewed by hand and also the manifold bolts

Either the freezing stuff I purchased from autobahn is amazingly good and everyone should get it or the last person who did them up had no clue!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...