Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And let the holdups begin:

4 of the Nismo 555s I supplied to Racepace, aren't actually Nismo injectors...they just look exactly the same...except for a different spray pattern. I bought these second hand from a seller advertising them as Nismo 555s out of an SR20, then got them reconditioned / flow tested...so I've been ripped off :(

Racepace are reluctant to use them with the 2 x brand new Nismo 555s I bought from Nengun, due to different spray pattern, so I have to source 4 more Nismo 555s before they can get to tuning :(

A little useless telling you this now but had I known a month a go I would have sorted you out... I ended up using my 555s 'for the sake of future scope'.. Cars all done now :(

BOOYAH just found 4 x Nismo 555cc in my shipping container of race car parts. They must have been in our S15 tracker before we put 740cc in to run E85. Just dropped them down to Racepace and Chris said my car could be on the dyno by the end of the day or he might come in tomorrow to work on it...worst case scenario I should get it back Monday, pending any tuning issues.

Still reeling about paying good money for copies though...hopefully I can get a few hundred for them on eBay.

Bummer thats a pain though teething issues are to be expected..

Do they have the same looking nozzles ?

Edit..lol, I paid 100$ each for stock sr20 NA injectors advertised as 740 nismos..best mistake I ever made ;)

Bit of a cross post, from RB25 turbo upgrade thread, but I did promise Stao to post results a while back.

98 R34 GTT - Auto

Blitz return flow

Trust PE II

HKS pod + z32

3" Hard metal intake pipe

Hypergear ATR34 G3 0.82 rear

TurboSmart Eboost 2

TurboSmart FPR800

Walbro intank

Bosch ID 1000cc Inj

NGK BKR7ES copper spark plugs, gapped 0.8mm

MV Automatics Stage 2 kit - valve body + welsh plugs

Nistune

Running KU31 255/30/19 on the rears

A little box slip, which is why the rpm is out - redline set to 7k.

Cooler was a little heat soaked after 30 something runs, and tuner wanted to play with extra load points at the bottom to fix idling.

med_gallery_70938_4838_61190.jpg

med_gallery_70938_4838_21512.jpg

med_gallery_70938_4838_897.jpg

Could have pushed for 300@20psi, but it was overall too laggy to be my daily and tuner had concerns over bend shaft causing rear wheel to touch the housing.

Decided to ask Stao to resize from an ATR34G3 to an ATR34SS2 to improve response.

Since then there's been some box troubles, so have replaced the solenoids and upgraded 2nd gear to a billet servo.

New tune *hopefully* next week, will post results then.

Edit: Images fixed

Bummer thats a pain though teething issues are to be expected..

Do they have the same looking nozzles ?

Edit..lol, I paid 100$ each for stock sr20 NA injectors advertised as 740 nismos..best mistake I ever made ;)

Farrrrrrk :(

f**king scumbags man, it'd be so easy to con people too because side feed injectors all look the same! I bought these nearly 2 years ago so no hope of getting money back, the seller probably didn't even know they weren't genuine as he was selling them second hand himself.

Those reading is based on a half opened waste gate, the tuner must've unloaded too much tesion from the actuator extender, causing it stick open. If would be a very different end result if the actuator was adjusted correctly. Is the ss2 installed and running? Had a test drive on it yet?

Just went for a slow cruise in the car

Ran into some more trouble this afternoon

Started it and the water line opposite side to the manifold started spitting out water

Ended up being the washers I used were to big

The side closest to the manifold may or may not be leaking.

Pretty worried about it but I guess only time will tell

Way to hard to get to the washer now as everything is back together

Those reading is based on a half opened waste gate, the tuner must've unloaded too much tesion from the actuator extender, causing it stick open. If would be a very different end result if the actuator was adjusted correctly. Is the ss2 installed and running? Had a test drive on it yet?

Yeah I thought so, which is really annoying because the G3 may have been a better choice... Anyways it is installed and running, not tuned because 2nd gear locks into limp mode, solenoids should be here on Monday or Tuesday, then couple of hours for tune, will post up results.

Even in third with the bit of lag it's nice and boosty!

Question guys.

Can I chuck some gasket goop around this bolt

To stop it for leaking just in case

Or will that just do nothing

The engine side is a pain. You can put a very thin layer of silicon glue around the washers that are going in there. which works well.

Yeah I thought so, which is really annoying because the G3 may have been a better choice... Anyways it is installed and running, not tuned because 2nd gear locks into limp mode, solenoids should be here on Monday or Tuesday, then couple of hours for tune, will post up results.

Even in third with the bit of lag it's nice and boosty!

Also the AFR in previous tune is all over the places, its leaning straight up after 6200RPMs. is it pinning up top? DVS should be able to touched it up or I guess he would erase it for a completely new tune.

I think you will end up making a bigger mess. I would just try to find the right size washer and do it properly. Mine eventually sealed without a washer, the coolant forms it's own seal, but I leaked a lot of coolant and made quite a mess before that happened. Take it from me, do it right the first time. The water lines are a bit easier to get back in once they have had time to get used to their new shape. It's not too bad a job.

Edited by Hanaldo

Here are my result of the G3 FNT

Havent seen any car that can match Stao's results on the same turbo so far, no matter how much everyone tries, I wonder why- they all read 10-30rwkw lower on average

Havent seen any car that can match Stao's results on the same turbo so far, no matter how much everyone tries, I wonder why- they all read 10-30rwkw lower on average

Thats is because Stao's running lot more boost most of the time which really shows the advantage of a built motor plus the all the expansive supporting mods and he's only uses one of the top tuner in Australia.

He usually post result of a maxed out turbo, no one's crazy enough to run 24~28psi on a stock engine plus their tuners won't let. I hope he can post some results on 15~18psi based.

Edited by GeorgesR34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...