Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats is because Stao's running lot more boost most of the time which really shows the advantage of a built motor plus the all the expansive supporting mods and he's only uses one of the top tuner in Australia.

He usually post result of a maxed out turbo, no one's crazy enough to run 24~28psi on a stock engine plus their tuners won't let. I hope he can post some results on 15~18psi based.

Most of Staos charts show him pushing around 20psi, rarely over, and getting 300ish.

17psi nets him 290kw. Check the first page. He updated it last week with his most recent results.

EDIT: That's on the G3 profile, by the way.

Edited by Cowboy1600

Havent seen any car that can match Stao's results on the same turbo so far, no matter how much everyone tries, I wonder why- they all read 10-30rwkw lower on average

Are we really complaining about ~20rwkw variance, with all the variables at hand, not the least being a completely different / seldom used dyno setup? Or that Stao's car has spent 20 x more time on the dyno, than any other car, finding ways to extract every last kw out of his turbos and his supporting mods?

The key to make more top end is making sure the boost control setup can hold boost at 7000rpms, people whoms are slightly down in power normally found them selves few psi down in boost at that point. There's a combination of method that I use including adjustment of preload on the actuator, wastegate controller and EBC. Pretty simple, normally just few mints while car's on the dyno. How ever i can not pre-set as final boost level varies between cars.

Good quality supporting mods do make a difference specially at high boost levels. I'm not concerned as those can be easily purchased.

How ever I am concert with tunner's ability and skills per discussion in page 182, without precise tune, the whole setup can not perform at its best, it is also frastrating as all the expasive research work that has been put in to the turbocharger turn meaningless

ssshhh... secersts of the dyno ;

If I give you back my turbo, and you you install it into your test car, and it makes less killerwasps than your published magic turbo, what is the prize?

I think we all understand what you're say saying Stao, it's just a very few who don't.

Refer to back to back test in page 213. The mainlane dyno read 5kws less then the current dyno I'm using and that was before engine rebuild at 300rwkws. The dyno is fair. What Turbo do you have to send in? Quite happy to do a test relating to it.

I don't own one of your turbos as yet Stao, my responce was pure hyperthetical, and sarcastic.

My point is:

All dynos are not identical,

All engineers/ mechanics have not the same skills,

All tuners have not the same skills,

...and yet I am 99.95% confident that all of your turbos will produce less than 5% difference in results than your magic [rollseyes/] turbo, given they are used with the same hardware.

like most things on the internet, people only come here to complain when it doesnt work..

but even a garret 3076r for instance, known performer..some people easily make well over 350kw with them while others struggle to crack 300kw..

Stao results are perfectly indicative of what his turbos can do..there are no tricks or gimmicks to the results just a shitload of R & D..Too many people think they can just slap this on for 1500$ and get the same result, but it doesnt always work that way..

Most of the people complaining about results aren't even HG customers though, lol. What Stao just said serves as the best clue to it all: engine rebuild. In relative terms: an engine that should be void of the power losses you can expect after 15-18 years of operation...

...and yet I am 99.95% confident that all of your turbos will produce less than 5% difference in results than your magic [rollseyes/] turbo, given they are used with the same hardware.

I don't think the foolish people are suggesting the turbo is different, but that Stao makes more power because of some secret squirrel business with his engine, i.e. it's not stock.

Most of the people complaining about results aren't even HG customers though, lol. What Stao just said serves as the best clue to it all: engine rebuild. In relative terms: an engine that should be void of the power losses you can expect after 15-18 years of operation...

I don't think the foolish people are suggesting the turbo is different, but that Stao makes more power because of some secret squirrel business with his engine, i.e. it's not stock.

I agree. I think the main difference between Stao's car making ~320rwkw and others making around ~370rwhp is the fact that his tuner knows the car well and knows it has forged pistons. I know that my tuner is not comfortable running 20psi into my engine, and most tuners will setup boost controllers to bleed off boost up top not hold it to redline. Simple things like that, plus maybe give or take 5-10rwkw for differences in dynos. Very easy to see where results are differing.

I personally think that if you have been for a ride in a car with a HG turbo then you will know they are capable. Even if there is something not quite right yet in the setup, you can feel the potential is there. Hard to put into words on a forum, but I think most if not all the people who have had the luxury of being in a variety of cars with multiple setups will agree with me.

I agree. I think the main difference between Stao's car making ~320rwkw and others making around ~370rwhp is the fact that his tuner knows the car well and knows it has forged pistons. I know that my tuner is not comfortable running 20psi into my engine, and most tuners will setup boost controllers to bleed off boost up top not hold it to redline. Simple things like that, plus maybe give or take 5-10rwkw for differences in dynos. Very easy to see where results are differing.

I personally think that if you have been for a ride in a car with a HG turbo then you will know they are capable. Even if there is something not quite right yet in the setup, you can feel the potential is there. Hard to put into words on a forum, but I think most if not all the people who have had the luxury of being in a variety of cars with multiple setups will agree with me.

I agree. Luke's car is fun.

But a GTR is better pirate.gif

Also the AFR in previous tune is all over the places, its leaning straight up after 6200RPMs. is it pinning up top? DVS should be able to touched it up or I guess he would erase it for a completely new tune.

I agree the AFR is all over the shop - main issue the tuner is having is control of the 1000cc injectors with NISTune, bottom end is very very rich.

Top end should be fine that's actually 7000 not 6200, just too much slip in box and dyno for it to read properly, the lean out is just the back off once rev limiter is hit, doesn't ping, quite the opposite, backfire on gear change cause it's too rich.

Yes the return line into the hard piping has been angled away from the AFM - keeping in mind that that was happening with G3 and old piping kit. A new one needed to be fabricated cause the SS2 is a smaller turbo - almost an inch too short to fit to the old 4" setup.

Yeah I've already spoken to DVSJez. will get a retune from him once I get the car back, don't want to be pinging for the 80k trip from here due to being too lean (honestly though I expect it to be too rich over 3000) to Somersby, which is where he's located.

Had a big day with Kasko, made some decent results but will let him tell the story.

At the end but im very impressed with the ss1. Drives really nice, spins the tyres and sounds awesome

This is reassuring :)

Hopefully get my car back tomorrow and can tell a similar story :)

One of my favourite things about the SS1PU after installation, was the noise...very unique sounding turbo!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...