Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here are few more Photos of Powered Up high flowed R33 turbo with 2IU turbine housing:

Note the difference in volume of modifed turbine housing on the right:

housings.jpg

pufront.jpg

purear.jpg

Thats some cool modifications and porting to the housing.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

Hi

Thanks for the info. I will look at selling the GT3082

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

ATR43G2 .63 with high pressure actautor and braided oil feeding line we can do for $1530.

To high flow your stock R34 turbo cost $960 including braided oil feeding line. high pressure actautor is additional at $150 each.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Convert that into OP6 R34 turbo cost $1000 including braided oil feeding line and oil drain adaptor.

To do this we have to modify T28 bearing housing to suit a T3x pring turbine housing.

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

Probably not at this stage. They are too small to work with.

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

This might be a silly question but is it possible to just replace the standard ceramic turbo wheel with a steel turbo wheel so that boost can be raised safely above 12psi? Do you offer a price for that? Would it still require a different oil line?

We actually build a brand new turbo core with bigger wheels, then machine your stock housings to suit it. We only use steel turbine wheels. So are you actually getting back a brand new turbo inside your factory housings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...