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At this stage for dyno sheet I only have one with a 1KG actuator, not a very good boost controller either.

http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh.../atr43360hp.jpg

The best result a customer had was 282rwkws on 17psi with a strong actuator. But have not yet sent me his dyno sheet.

A/R generally stands for the geometric characteristic of the housing. Bigger housings with greater A/R No. flows more, greater top end power, more lag. Small turbine housings picks up better response, but less top end. All turbine housings are made and machined here with cast steel with mixture of inconel.

oh ok, so you make your own rear housings? I know what the .82 means, i just didnt know if it was custom made or off a vl turbo or sumthing

i will keep in touch in regard to the ball bearing gt3076r with .82 rear bolt on housing (the front is the stock rb25 style housing too right?)

would u be able to do it for 1850 with stronger actuator fitted and delivered to perth ?

so just to confirm, its a straight bolt on, slighly shorter cartridge and needs lines to suit a garret gt30 core but everything else should bolt straight up fine?

Edited by snozzle
oh ok, so you make your own rear housings? I know what the .82 means, i just didnt know if it was custom made or off a vl turbo or sumthing

i will keep in touch in regard to the ball bearing gt3076r with .82 rear bolt on housing (the front is the stock rb25 style housing too right?)

would u be able to do it for 1850 with stronger actuator fitted and delivered to perth ?

so just to confirm, its a straight bolt on, slighly shorter cartridge and needs lines to suit a garret gt30 core but everything else should bolt straight up fine?

Yes its a custom made housing with flange to adapt to stock manifold and dump. The inside of it we can machine it to suit most of GT3x wheels.

Compressor housings we normally use .60 size with 3inch inlet and 2 inch round outlet. you are going to need a 90 degrees rubber hose and a 3inch straight hose if you are going to connect them to your stock intake and cooler pipes.

We can modify the GT30's bearing housings to suit stock water and oil lines. and supply the oil drain adaptor. So you don't need to get any aftermarket feeding lines

Price wise for the Garrett GT3076 56T with .82 custom bolton turbine housing, including modifications to bearing housing and high pressure actuator I can do for $2000 including GST delivered, Won't be able to do it any cheaper.

Ok just seeing if I understand this correctly:

- Standard High Flow R34 470hp, exterior is completely standard

- PU High Flow R33/34 500hp, exterior is completely standard

- ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear, aftermarket turbo, so exterior is NOT standard

- ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear, aftermarket turbo, so exterior is NOT standard

- GT3076 spec turbo in .82 turbine housing, aftermarket turbo, so exterior is NOT standard

Is that right?

Edited by Harey

- Standard High Flow R34 470hp, exterior is completely standard

- PU High Flow R33/34 500hp, this includes .82 turbine housing and high pressure actuator. Standard Comp housing

- ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear, aftermarket turbo, standard actuator. (high pressure actuator optional)

- ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear, aftermarket turbo, standard actuator. (high pressure actuator optional)

- GT3076 spec turbo in .82 turbine housing, exterior of compressor is standard, but aftermarket exhaust housing. standard actuator. (high pressure actuator optional)

All bearing housings has been modified to suit RB25's water lines, Oil lines for sleeve bearing models is supplied. Oil feeding thread for BB turbos has been modified to suit RB25's oil line. Oil drain adaptor for BB turbos is supplied.

Price wise for the Garrett GT3076 56T with .82 custom bolton turbine housing, including modifications to bearing housing and high pressure actuator I can do for $2000 including GST delivered, Won't be able to do it any cheaper.

That sounds fantastic!

Just took car for another run to realise i wasnt hitting r&r at 12psi. i had a dodgy afm connector. Realised this after idle started going weird. When in engine bay knocked afm plug and car stalled. fixed as best i can and running better hitting around 14.5 psi dosnt really start making boost until 3500 slowly builds up to about 4psi at 4000 and then it really starts taking off. hitting r&r flat stop around 12psi then keeps going. sounds quite mean when you slap throttle closed as running no BOV. gonna install wideband unit today hopefully then start alittle tunning

Edited by Crans

You need to run a BOV and reduce surge pressure. Not good for the turbo at all.

Any way, the standard actuator is ok about 15psi. You will need the high pressure actuator for any thing higher.

But should be able to get close to 270rwkws on 15psi with supporting mods and a good tune.

is the need for a bov based on problems/failed turbo's of yours? from what i know it is a myth. plenty of turbo cars have been released without a factory bov

You will find few fords with GT3582Rs twisted shafts due to BOV blockage. I've personally repaired few. All cars that came out of factory with a T25 or bigger size turbos are fitted with some sort of release valve. For the ones that didn't are not released for more then 7psi.

Just think about, what happens to the boost inside your cooler piping and cooler once the throttle is shut.

The turbine shaft is made to drive compressor wheel. not other way round. Surge at 20psi acts as a hammer striking on the comp wheels every time you let go the accelerator.

We did some minor fabrications to the compressor collars and comp side half shaft act against this problem. So far I've not seen any of our turbos having this type of issue.

How ever running a BOV for high boost application is a essential for any turbochargers that is out there.

You need to run a BOV and reduce surge pressure. Not good for the turbo at all.

Any way, the standard actuator is ok about 15psi. You will need the high pressure actuator for any thing higher.

But should be able to get close to 270rwkws on 15psi with supporting mods and a good tune.

What boost will the standard actuator run at with out any other forms of boost control?

standard will run about 9 psi without boost controller. Once boost controller is adapted it can hold a max of 15psi to red line. High pressure actuators are ok to hold 21psi.

Quick question Stao, (and anyone else that can assist)

With the actuator controlling my hiflow turbo, i currently run 14 psi.

I get 14 psi by 3 500 RPM but by the time i get to 6-7000RPM, boost drops to 11PSI, every gear. Have you heard of this problem before and where do you think the problem is.

I have checked the Cooler-all ok

Took off exhaust- Still same problem.

What else would you suggest? I just want to run 14 psi constantly. Cheers Stao.

check intake pipe (make sure it does not shut under boost). pre-load few rounds on the actuator or go for the high pressure actuator.

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