Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mm I think that was optional. he's user id is Abe2 send him an email. Or see if ScottyM35 have some thing invented.

Thanks Stao. :)

I do an 80mm alloy intake kit to suit the stock airbox with bov and breather fittings.

post-63525-0-13924300-1339087856_thumb.jpg

That 80mm one would it suit a atr43g3 ???? I want something that would allow standard air box connection with plumb back for both retic and oil breather

Get scotty to make one for you then.

It would suit the 80mm

Its been made 4inches for a reason. Best to have a 4inch intake pipe.

Also I've got a R33 turbo sent in for high flowing about week ago, job is complete, but it has no name or return address on it. Please pm through if that belongs to you.

Ok than can anyone make one up four inch and reduce to 3 inch ( Scotty ). It has to be three for the afm

I'm sure Scotty could do the same design in 4", PM him to discuss it.

Like you said, you are running an afm like a z32 in the standard position, so your intake will have to be 80mm at some point to be able to connect the afm.

Just get a 4" to 3" silicone reducer for one end of the intake.

Edited by Mitcho_7

Its been made 4inches for a reason. Best to have a 4inch intake pipe.

Also I've got a R33 turbo sent in for high flowing about week ago, job is complete, but it has no name or return address on it. Please pm through if that belongs to you.

It's been made 4 inches because of the anti surge ports, not because it needs a 4 inch intake. While 4 inch would be good there is no point if you still run the afm. Mine has run 350kw on a 70mm internal pipe so this one with a 3 inch internal should be no problem for most customers.

I can make any piping you need but I would need the car here obviously.

Do the g2.5/g3 have 4" intakes? I always thought they were 3"?

G2 is 3 inch I can't say about g2.5 but g3 is definitely a 4 inch intake that's why it needs the spacer on the manifold

That 80mm one would it suit a atr43g3 ???? I want something that would allow standard air box connection with plumb back for both retic and oil breather

Anyone ever tried putting a pod in stock air box with the arse cut out?

Whats the point?

Just chuck a high flow filter on there and enjoy.

Or do you want induction noises ?

With Hi flow panel filter and a metal intake pipe I get a sweet induction noise, you don't need a pod for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...