Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some updates:

The manifold finally came back from Brae auto fab:

manifold1.jpg.jpg

and it will be running on a 50mm external gate:

manifold2.jpg.jpg

This is still a bolton manifold that holds a turbocharger in stock position. How ever I'm going to wait for the later and cheaper manifold prototype that said to be complete on Monday.

The head gasket also shown up. how ever it isn't 1.1mm as what the seller claim to be. 0.051 of an inch calculates to be 1.3mm.

gasket.jpg.jpg

any one had experiences with 1.3mm head gaskets? or I'm just going to install another stock gasket back in. hopefully it will be back on the road towards the end of next week.

I'm keen to see what the SS2 would do at its full potential, on that setup, then follow it by an updated version of the SS3 now has a different wheel curvature, which I'm hopping to hit some where close to the 400rwkws mark with similar response as the SS2.

atr43ss3.jpg.jpg

By the way SS1PU is now available in a SR20det bolton form. A trail with customers stock S13 SR20det have reported a final figure of 270rwkws @ 17psi using 260 duration cams on pump 98 responsively. I will pickup and post the dyno read out coming week.

1.3mm is pretty thick, thats some thing been used to de-comp a NA motor. running that on your engine will increase turbo lag, how ever probably allowing more top end power. I would use it if its for me own car, but if you run that on a test car then your results would be different to a normal Rb25det. So my opinion is stock head gasket.

^^ depends how much the head has been skimmed too

Stao how long have you been making the comp wheels with Hypergear written on them?

Have you thought of bending/modifying actuator brackets so the actuator sits flush and doesn't need washers behind it?

Updates are looking good Stao

How different is the next manifold design to the one shown? Very interested in a int gated manifold and SS2.5 or SS2 when this latest bunch of design is done :)

Will keep a close eye on this thread

The next manifold is going to be a log manifold. Same as stock manifold except the tubing size will be larger. It will also have a external gate port welded on top so it allows external wastegating.

I can also make plugs that seals the screamer pipe, the whole point is it can be used internally gated for road and externally gated for tracks. The current SS2 is one of the best turbos to drive on road. I'm hopping to see 370rwkws on it with the new setup.

On the same time Externally gated SS2 is cheaper to make, so the extra money can be used for a plumb back system.

The next manifold is going to be a log manifold. Same as stock manifold except the tubing size will be larger. It will also have a external gate port welded on top so it allows external wastegating.

I can also make plugs that seals the screamer pipe, the whole point is it can be used internally gated for road and externally gated for tracks. The current SS2 is one of the best turbos to drive on road. I'm hopping to see 370rwkws on it with the new setup.

On the same time Externally gated SS2 is cheaper to make, so the extra money can be used for a plumb back system.

Will the new manifolds be a bit like that HKS manifold you have for sale on eBay?

Edited by pipster11

1 would think so

Could be onto a winner with that one!!! Hypergear manifold/Turbo/ext wastegate/dump combo! Everything for the hot side in one box :-)

Could be onto a winner with that one!!! Hypergear manifold/Turbo/ext wastegate/dump combo! Everything for the hot side in one box :-)

I would be all over that kit. No need to move the car on a tow truck to a fabricator.

The over all structure would be very similar to the HKS manifold as it is also an log manifold in a twin pulse. How ever the HKS does not bolton, I gave up on installation, its almost impossible to fit unless the engine is out. Now it ended up on ebay.

The manifold we are making is a twin pulse bolton manifold. by not making a Nissan OEM flange I save $275. that money is probably just enough for a 4inch front pipe to factory cat position. So its going to be a full kit once its complete. If it works well I think that I can develop a turbo to suit that setup feeding E85 fuel, possibly 320rwkws on stock response or better.

any chance of doing a similar manifold for other engines?

eg 1JZ/2JZ both non-vvti and the late vvti versions, RB26 etc

the cast iron single turbo 2JZ manifolds sell well in the states, but nothing for 1J's

The manifold is designed at a simple form that doesn't require lots of man hours. Its going to be a cheap bolton package, and I believe it can increase power level substantially working with all std high flowed turbos.

what are the manifolds made of Stao? and would it be worth having one for an ATR43G3 internal gate? i am still worried about all that extra heat being generated near ports 5 and 6. well, if these are cheap enough and use factory turbo positioning, i will probably buy one.

Stao can you PM me the SR20 SS1PU result? that is the results I am looking for.

You can send a message to Abe2 for some feedbacks, it is currently on his 180sx. I will be seeing Trent for it once my car's back together for further tuning.

what are the manifolds made of Stao? and would it be worth having one for an ATR43G3 internal gate? i am still worried about all that extra heat being generated near ports 5 and 6. well, if these are cheap enough and use factory turbo positioning, i will probably buy one.

The manifold are made from steam pipe. same material used on mine as well as other reputable manifold workshops. On previous discussion I've had with Brae is to relocate the turbo flange 15mms forward leaving extra room for cyc 4,5,6. Its a small change, shouldn't cause much installation issues, while stock water line and oil drain can be reused.

The factory manifold crushes the pulse that connects to the rear 3 cycs, I'm not keen on following that design.

just so you know, my actuator is touching the strut tower already and it could use 5mm atleast so it clears. so might need to look into moving the actuator in closer to the turbo if you were to move that flange out more.

that would get rid of the spacer plate also would it? i think it was 15mm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...