Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ah fair enough. I did actually consider it, I was tempted by the price. Unfortunately I'm in the same boat as Trev in that it's not my preferred kit. In any case, I should get my setup working correctly without WMI before I start using it as a bandaid.

What's missing from your setup hanaldo? I saw your powercruise video (sounds great) and can see your mods/output in your sig. Looks pretty good to me, just not running as much boost as some of the other guys are.

What's missing from your setup hanaldo? I saw your powercruise video (sounds great) and can see your mods/output in your sig. Looks pretty good to me, just not running as much boost as some of the other guys are.

When he runs more boost it doesn't make more power unfortunately so he has to find what's causing that

Some further evaluation on a ceramic roller bearing PU high flow running stock compressor housing internally gated. The profile of this turbocharger is identical to a G2.5.

IMAG1096.jpg

I've bought some actuators casings from Taiwan (probably same as Kando ones) and used 18psi high pressure actuator springs in it and it worked well. Best part is that I can add few washers under the diaphragm to load the springs to where I want it to be.

IMAG1097.jpg

It made 341rwkws on E85 with the current manifold. It is 10kws short and 100rpms laggier compare to when it was on the Brae manifold even with more boost. How ever pretty good result from a stock looking turbo.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Haha thanks for that Kasko, pretty much on the money. Haven't looked into it a lot yet to be honest, graduate from Uni next week and fly out to Europe in 3, so been a bit preoccupied. Intention is to get into it once I get back from Europe next year.

Realistically those actuators are just big casings, the actual diaphragm and spring setups are identical to any other actuators. The best part of it is it allows you to change springs easily and preloading the spring by adding washers under the diaphragm of where the two bolts comes out. But apart from that its no differences to metal casing actuators.

Its probably good for turbos with small compressor housings, But It does run out of room when I tried to use it with a .70 comp housing.

Also our billet 18G compressor is ready, The profile is identical to our SS1PU compressor wheel but smaller in diameter. This wheel is made to flow about 10% higher then original cast wheel, while producing very dynamic on road drivability.

IMAG1109.jpg

Our compressor casting has also arrived.

IMAG1110.jpg

Tomorrow I will machine it up alone with turbine casting to have the turbocharger produced. It is currently available in 8cm rear, with 18G or 20G comp and TD05H and TD06SL2 turbine wheel. Price is still at $800 each. PM if any one's interested.

Also I've re-engineered the sleeve bearings with different oil grove for the ATR43xx turbochargers, tested today, which made them have similar boost building behavior as the ceramic roller bearing CHRAs, will get some dyno readings mid week against my CBB result. Free upgrade to all customers.

This project is mainly for Greddy turbo fans, but I don't like copying them in OEM specifications, so I will mix and match wheels plus some customized profiled billet wheels for them to be different. The goal is for dynamic drivability, Modify housings to fit different types of vehicles, and perhaps adding ceramic roller bearing cartridges.

I've had the T518Z billet version finalized today with every thing machined up nicely.

IMAG1105.jpg

IMAG1107.jpg

It is currently on 18G compressor with a TD05H turbine. I will machine one more housing using SL2 turbine tomorrow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...