Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[blah_blah]

Thanks Roy! That looks quite nasty.....

Will definately do something about this manifold. Maybe I need to make a custom heat shield

Stock one had a heat shield where this does not

Edited October 29, 2012 by blah_blah

[GeorgesR34]

Need to wrap it up with heat wraps. Stainless steel will turn red and super hot.

[LANDSCRIBBLE]

ACL heatshield is awsome stuff, you can bend and cut it into any shape you need i also heat wrapped the manifold and part of the dump, used heat shield sleeving on the oil and water lines, aswell as a turbo beanie.

[blah_blah]

ACL heatshield is awsome stuff, you can bend and cut it into any shape you need i also heat wrapped the manifold and part of the dump, used heat shield sleeving on the oil and water lines, aswell as a turbo beanie.

After doing a bit of reading this morning. The ACL Heatshields seem to be the go

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

[Roy]

Yeh ACL is good stuff, but with that sort of dump and manifold setup I think you will have trouble making a decent arrangement. Under the sheathing over the coolant hoses going into the firewall std Nissan hoses that have been wrapped in DEI no leaks to further make the new hose robust.

When you are driving arount at wide open throttle for 15 minutes with everything glowing red everything goes to shit. Even loom clips nowehere near the immediate heat sources harden and become nice and crispy. If its less circuit car and just a club car doing track work then the concern over heat control is a little less

[GTSBoy]

Bringing a 6" flexible duct up from the front of the car to dump cooling air in the region can help too. Even if it doesn't noticeably cool the hot stuff, it will take some heat away from the stuff that's not meant to be hot.

[blah_blah]

When you are driving arount at wide open throttle for 15 minutes with everything glowing red everything goes to shit. Even loom clips nowehere near the immediate heat sources harden and become nice and crispy. If its less circuit car and just a club car doing track work then the concern over heat control is a little less

Just a daily car doing club track work via SAU VIC and other car clubs.

Winton isn't too much a problem.

But somewhere like Sandown and Phillip Island (Havent been but assuming so) might be

With the stock setup, car was getting really hot under the car and oil temps up to 130 towards the end of the day at Sandown. So would only last about 8-10 mins out of a 15min session before oil temps started to get out of control. This was on a 20c day.

So now with this new manifold, turbo and summer approaching. Hoping heat shielding and an oil cooler will do the trick.

Seems a bit of a waste doing track days and having to pull in early in sessions because your car is overheating

[Roy]

Bringing a 6" flexible duct up from the front of the car to dump cooling air in the region can help too. Even if it doesn't noticeably cool the hot stuff, it will take some heat away from the stuff that's not meant to be hot.

Yeh, maybe...but I don't like that idea on my car. Too much heat-temp cycling. If you run a bit duct so its all low velocity and you dont get cold spots...but not very practical given how busy it all it in there. I also ran my inlet temp thermocouple around the strut tower whilst I was doing my shielding etc years ago and i think the main thing is keep the heat in the hot things and try to have slow heating and cooling....with it protect the things that dont like heat and then typically saloon cars with copious amount of 60deg air coming through the radiator gives enough airflow through the engine bay...for me a better approach since i dont want any ducting etc in my bonnet. But others may be able to make it work

[GTSBoy]

I'm thinking that for a track car, or at least when the car is at the track, a bit of ducting that goes in temporarily is not going to cause you too much hot-cold cycling. I still think it's worth a shot.

[hypergear]

Get vented bonnet. that helps alot

[LANDSCRIBBLE]

That would be ideal Stao, just on a street car these days, its gotta be one of the best ways to get the police looking

[Birds]

Can tie that air con hose back to the chassis when SS1PU w/ standard manifold and custom dump.

jus sayin

[hypergear]

Did some jigging today. I can make TD06SL2 20G / 18G or TD05H 18G into a bolton turbocharger for Nissan Rb engines, how ever only in a 8cm housing at current stage. It will cost $300 additional. Since most internally gated TDxx results are rather disappointing, the ATR series are still better choices of a bolton turbocharger, how ever send in PM if any one wish to get one made and have a go at.

[GTScotT]

Stao I think you should try the TD05H 18g on the RB25. I think it will surprise you in terms of being a decent <250kw.

[hypergear]

The curvature of the blade is too far curved, specially in a 8cm its going to chock the engine badly, and putting on heaps of load onto the thrust collar. Its good for small engines. Under comparison, the SL2 turbine appears much better for a Rb20/25 motor.

[GTScotT]

The TD05H seems to pump a fair amount of volume on a 4G63, up to 300kw on E85 from memory (with custom spec compressors).

Trent has also said 280kw from one is not hard to achieve. (TD05H 18g 10cm).

That being said. 280kw from an SR or 280kw from an RB is the same amount of exhaust gas flow regardless. Power = flow. Right?

You have the thing able to be put on, just trial it on your own car and see.

[hypergear]

Nope, bigger engines actually result in much high back pressure and lot more heat when constrained by a small turbine, its different when fitted on to a smaller engine. So this turbo might reach 250rwkws on a worked SR20det, but won't be able to reach that on a RB25det, probably going to pin its head off on boost.

This is the new 3inch Vband dump adaptor with a large 38mm internal gate that I've been working on earlier and it is now complete.

[hypergear]

The 3.5 inches front pipe that I would like to offer with this turbine housing has been made (by Drifthovic SAU: Abe2 <= this guy also makes stainless stell 3inch lobster induction pipes for high flow and other turbos)

After looking into my Xforce front pipe. it appears it was a straight pipe bent into shape by a bender, not mandrel bents. The area that it bents were only 2.5 inches.

With the new front pipe installed, the exhaust sounded alittle louder. and felt torquier in the mid-upper rev range.

Price for the cnc internal gate assembly is $350

3inch mandrel bend front pipe to cat is: $220

3.5 inches lobster bend (show on photo) is $270.

So for example a ATR43G3 with above assembly and 3inch mandrel bend front pipe would be:

$900 (turbo) + 350 (cnc internal gate assembly) + 220 (front pipe) = $1470

The CNC internal gate assembly and front pipe also fits any ATR43's .82 turbine housings.

This setup will allow the turbocharger to perform much betterly compare to some of the CN imported front pipes.

[t_revz]

SS series cost?

Are you dyno testing it?

[joe blo]

front pipe available without turbo purchase?